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July 2010 OTOTM Winner
U.S. Military - Veteran
V8 Engine Swap
OTOTM Winner
Solid Axle Swap
TRS Event Participant
thought i might post up some more pics of the truck "in progress" beings its never done, and a few showing how it got here... Ive had this same truck the last 5yrs now and have done alot of BootyFab on it just to get it working so i could go wheel it. Now ive become more patient, knowledgable, expeirienced, and have the money to do things right.
used to have a turndown off the muffler under the truck, got tired of smelling exhaust so i had it finished out.
finishing the cage.
when i first did the doubler i put on an electric case, shift motor never worked, 90% of the time i had to crawl under and shift with a cresent wrench.
got a new 1354M
hand bent a shifter.
installed, thank god for never crawling under the truck again.
bought a SF-D60 and built it and put it in. Shackle angle and everything all jacked up.
So i chopped the crap out of the frame, boxed it and it was all better.
... then made friends with a guy at a J-yard, let him ride in my truck and we drove over some cars... so he decided to give me a front D60 that i had been needing. Free.
Decided to try a little idea i had and it turned out to work... ground the casting stuff of the top of the BJ knuckle, drew a CAD picture and took it to waterjet, Drilled and tapped and came out with this.
now this is where my "in progress" pics stop, i guess i just quit taking them so I can just describe and show the closest pics that show what i have to say.
for the front I just took a hole saw, made some holes in the frame rail right behind bumper and hammerd the crap out of a big peice of tube into the rails and vwa-la, welded on front tabs and had hangers. Strongest and highest clearance way of doing it that ive seen out of all the leaf SAS RBV swaps.
then to use the stock D60 perches I had to make something for the rear. Only regret i have with the way i did this is that i should of made holes in the Angle iron first to do plug welds... oh well.
had the local spring shop make me some hangers in their leaf spring machine (yes its mild steel material, not leaf) and made some shackles.
makeing an x-member from rail to rail in that rear hanger location is a must on the future to-do list. I dont see this frame lasting more than 2-3yrs tops without one, I will also run that front cage foot you can see in the picture, straight into it.
leafs i used are Trailgear 3" toyota leafs. i have a total of 9" WB gain... 4 in the front and 5 in the rear.
other than this i have alot of other various little odds and ends mods here and there, and alot of cleanup that made the truck clean and done right throughout.
the next big top 3 on the list to come very soon is hydro assist, LoMax twinstick D300 and beadlocks. Ofcourse there will be other things but that is just the big stuff. smaller stuff to include finishing OBA, battery reloaction, TBI swap.. ect.
used to have a turndown off the muffler under the truck, got tired of smelling exhaust so i had it finished out.
finishing the cage.
when i first did the doubler i put on an electric case, shift motor never worked, 90% of the time i had to crawl under and shift with a cresent wrench.
got a new 1354M
hand bent a shifter.
installed, thank god for never crawling under the truck again.
bought a SF-D60 and built it and put it in. Shackle angle and everything all jacked up.
So i chopped the crap out of the frame, boxed it and it was all better.
... then made friends with a guy at a J-yard, let him ride in my truck and we drove over some cars... so he decided to give me a front D60 that i had been needing. Free.
Decided to try a little idea i had and it turned out to work... ground the casting stuff of the top of the BJ knuckle, drew a CAD picture and took it to waterjet, Drilled and tapped and came out with this.
now this is where my "in progress" pics stop, i guess i just quit taking them so I can just describe and show the closest pics that show what i have to say.
for the front I just took a hole saw, made some holes in the frame rail right behind bumper and hammerd the crap out of a big peice of tube into the rails and vwa-la, welded on front tabs and had hangers. Strongest and highest clearance way of doing it that ive seen out of all the leaf SAS RBV swaps.
then to use the stock D60 perches I had to make something for the rear. Only regret i have with the way i did this is that i should of made holes in the Angle iron first to do plug welds... oh well.
had the local spring shop make me some hangers in their leaf spring machine (yes its mild steel material, not leaf) and made some shackles.
makeing an x-member from rail to rail in that rear hanger location is a must on the future to-do list. I dont see this frame lasting more than 2-3yrs tops without one, I will also run that front cage foot you can see in the picture, straight into it.
leafs i used are Trailgear 3" toyota leafs. i have a total of 9" WB gain... 4 in the front and 5 in the rear.
other than this i have alot of other various little odds and ends mods here and there, and alot of cleanup that made the truck clean and done right throughout.
the next big top 3 on the list to come very soon is hydro assist, LoMax twinstick D300 and beadlocks. Ofcourse there will be other things but that is just the big stuff. smaller stuff to include finishing OBA, battery reloaction, TBI swap.. ect.
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I'm up in the air on beadlocks as I dont usually have that big of an issue, i may go the route that Sceep recommended and has been doing for the last 10yrs almost.... If you look closly to the inside of the rim on his buggy you can see he did it on that too. Drilling holes around the rim and running screws w/ rightstuff into the bead of the tire. Then once i can afford it, get some bling beadlock rims eventually.
