8.8 swap in 88 2wd

[lil red turbo]

if i parallel the explorer spring perches will that give me the correct pinion angle?

 

[Curious Hound]

if i parallel the explorer spring perches will that give me the correct pinion angle?

Probably not. Because when you move the spring to the top of the axle, the axle becomes lower in relation to the transmission, therefore the pinion would have to be angled up more.



I think.

 

[lil red turbo]

you are right. its like 14* The one I just took out is 8* So go with 8 or wait til its all together? It cant be original since it has a sensor in it....

 

[lil red turbo]

this is a new 347 c4 build. starting it all over no more 2.3 turbo

 

[Curious Hound]

If I were doing it, I would put the axle ad perches in place, make sure it's centered, rotate for the pinion angle you need, snug up the bolts to hold it. Then weld the perches in that position. But wait for a few others to weigh in on this. I haven't actually done it myself.

 

[lil red turbo]

everything ive read here in the swap section says 6*. I only want to do this once lol Plus I am adding Calvert racing traction bars to help me get some traction. Also should I leave the thickest overload spring out for better weight transfer?

 

[Dirtman]

There is no set number except the physical limit of the joint, and it should never be a zero degree angle. The pinion angle should be the exact opposite of the transmission angle. If the transmission side sits down 9 degrees than the pinion side should point up 9 degrees. This insures the u-joints pivot the same amount and one isn't taking more load than the other. If the angle is zero on one or both sides then the needle bearings in the u-joint won't move and will seize.

 

[lil red turbo]

so as I expected I should wait til its all together. Im so impatient lol My block is due back in 3 weeks from machine shop. Just trying to do what I can to prepare before it gets here. Thank you!! Build pics soon to come

 

[Bird76Mojo]

TREMEC Toolbox - Apps on Google Play

Take the guesswork out of chassis setup with the TREMEC Toolbox

play.google.com

 

[Blmpkn]

everything ive read here in the swap section says 6*. I only want to do this once lol Plus I am adding Calvert racing traction bars to help me get some traction. Also should I leave the thickest overload spring out for better weight transfer?

Run the 2/1 leaf packs and buy some shocks where you can mess with at least the rebound settings, preferably shocks where you can mess with both the compression AND rebound.

Adjust so the shock will compress with little resistance and then rebound as slow as possible. This will ensure the rear will squat relatively easily and then stay there until your at least out of the 60'

If your going to mess with the front.. You'd want your shocks set pretty much exactly opposite of the rear... rebound as fast as possible and really tighten down the compression.

To maximize weight transfer you'll want to run LONG and LIGHT coils up front. Longer lighter coils will enable to front of the truck to "raise up" more than a regular amount to really send the weight rearward.