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5.0 Ranger Running Rich


It's supposed to mount to the top left bolt that holds the wiper motor bracket thingy on isn't it? Where is a good place to run it to? Guess I'll have to pick a strap up and see if that solves my problem.
 
Yes, that ground is important, might not solve the problems but there should be a ground strap.
Body parts and frame are all painted before assembly so body is isolated from the frame, bolts are holding against painted surfaces.
Engine/trans sit on rubber mounts not very good grounds.

Generally you need 4 main ground wires
Battery to engine, larger cable for starter motor and alternator higher amp power
Battery to Rad support, head light ground, also jumper from here to inner fender on some years
Engine to frame, rear/trailer light ground
Engine to Cab, in cab electrics
 
Here's the plan:

Clean MAF
Check all grounds and add new ones where necessary
Check air filter
Check for vacuum leaks
Pull a plug to verify it's running rich. If so... New plugs?
Remove SCT chip and see if it runs better. Might help make sure the tune isn't bad.

Anything else you can think of?
 
Grounds checked and new engine to firewall ground strap added. Didn't fix it. After taking it for a spin I looked under it and both cats were smoking. Cleaning the MAF now.
 
It actually does seem slightly better. Only the p0172 code came back so far.
 
Cleaned the MAF, added firewall to engine block ground strap, checked air filter, and pulled a spark plug. I pulled the plug out of the cylinder on the passenger side closest to the front. Here are some pics. Does it look like excessive carbon buildup indicating a rich mixture? Never really examined plugs before... Also no oil or gas came out when I pulled the plug. I'm running out of ideas. I can pull my chip and see how it runs, but I don't know if that would get me anything. It's still not going to run right if it's looking for auto tranny.




 
Have you checked your TPS? My Mustang was running like crap and stalling out randomly. Went thru 2 of them before I got a good one. Runs great now. Had to have the computer go thru the relearn procedure before it did though. I didn't even know that existed before I goggled it.

Sent from my Alcatel9007T using Tapatalk
 
Have you checked your TPS? My Mustang was running like crap and stalling out randomly. Went thru 2 of them before I got a good one. Runs great now. Had to have the computer go thru the relearn procedure before it did though. I didn't even know that existed before I goggled it.

Sent from my Alcatel9007T using Tapatalk

My TPS voltage at closed throttle is reading 18% and at full throttle it's 90% according to my ultra gauge. Do I need to adjust the throttle screw or throttle cable? It seems to move smoothly as I depress the pedal. I'm guessing the sensor is fine and maybe my throttle screw and or cable need adjusting?
 
Throttle shouldn't need adjustment at screw if the computer is working. Cable maybe. Have you pulled the TPS and made sure it's not carbon fouled and moving freely? My readings were good and no cel but the TPS wasn't moving freely, plunger was bad.

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So after cleaning the MAFS and adding a ground strap from firewall to engine block I cleared the codes. So far they have not come back, but my truck still has a hesitation intermittently and it is also stalling on me intermittently. Once on the interstate and once in stop and go traffic. It started right back up both times and runs great in between stalls.

I had this problem a couple of years ago before I quit driving it. Now that I finally have it back on the road it's doing it again. Big surprise. I wasn't able to figure it out before, but I'll try again I guess. I need a big list from someone of things to check. Grounds, ignition, etc.
 
Just to see..................I would put a test light on the inertia switch, so while driving it would be lit up, fuel pump is getting power.
If the light goes out or dims and you get the hesitation or stall then you will know the problem is fuel pump power.

This could be fuel pump relay or the computers Ground for that relay.
Just a freebe test
 
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Haven't checked anything yet, but I did notice that after stalling it will not start unless I cycle the key off and then back on. If I don't do that it will only crank and not fire. Also the CEL flashed on then off in a split second one time while driving. I have an ultra gauge, so it should tell me when there is a pending code before the CEL even comes on. It's not getting any codes. So I'm thinking there must be a bad ground somewhere, or somehow the PCM is losing power intermittently...or the PCM is just bad. I'm going to check the wiring diagrams and make sure there aren't any grounds hiding from me.
 
Okay... so the two ground wires coming off of the firewall next to the computer cavity and run into the wiring harness...one is larger than the other. Where are both of them supposed to go? Looks like some weird splicing took place in my harness at some point.
 
I went out on a limb and replaced the computer... no luck. Still have the stalling issue. It must be losing ignition suddenly,I just don't know why. I'm thinking maybe I should replace the engine wiring harness. Can't think of anything else. It just loses power suddenly and starts right back up after cycling power...

There is a splice in the harness, and it looks like the CKP sensor shield (GND) wire is spliced into the ground connection next to the PCM. The power wire and signal wire look fine. I wouldn't think it would matter where the CKP sensor is grounded, but if something is wrong there it could cause an intermittent fault I guess... Would that cause it to lose power completely? I haven't seen a CKP sensor code though...
 

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