4x4 newbie

[Sdude2008]

Just bought my fourth Ranger a 1999 4x4. The previous 3 have been rwd. Anyway the seller showed me how he replaced the vacuum front hubs with manual hubs. He said to engage the four wheel drive I need to turn the dash knob, turn the hub dials and then drive in reverse for about 10 feet. He said to do the reverse to take it back to 2wd.
Is this normal? ( I said I was a 4x4 newbie)
Thanks.

 

[adsm08]

Having to back up to get into 4x4 is unusual, usually just the action of the axle shafts being driven is enough. Having the back up to get out is normal. It takes any windup stresses off the various joints that may be keeping them bound together even though they have been disengaged.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I dont think ive ever seen a system that uses reverse to engage. Once you lock the hubs your in.

My guess is he missspoke and meant you had to back up to disengage the front end

 

[Craig0320]

My 98 I just lock in my manual hubs and then engage the switch and drive forward. Never had a problem. Now I have a manual case and I do the same procedure.

 

[4x4junkie]

RWD = 2WD.

Indeed it is to allow the system to disengage back to 2WD. There's no need to back up while you are putting it into 4x4.

 

[RonD]

The "backup thing" was for Auto Hubs, or PVH Hubs(which were like "auto hubs"), and only to switch from 4WD to RWD.

The Auto Hubs engaged by front axle torque
In RWD the front axle doesn't turn so Auto Hubs stayed Unlocked.
When you change transfer case to 4WD the front axle starts to turn, has torque, so the Auto Hubs would engage, Lock wheel to axle, and you have 4WD in Forward AND Reverse

When you shift transfer case back to RWD, front axle loses torque and Auto hubs "should" Unlock, but sometimes one, or both wouldn't, so front axle would keep turning with the wheel.
Backing up without transfer case torque on the axle would reverse the "drag" torque on the Auto Hub causing it to release/unlock

With Manual hubs you are controlling a gear that connects axle and hub/wheel to lock it, or unlock it, so no "backing up" would be required to Unlock front axle/wheels, a gear is physically moving in side the hub when you turn the Hub from lock to unlock


And just an FYI
In the winter or anytime you might need 4WD, just leave the front hubs Locked all the time, then you can do "shift on the fly"(while moving) to 4high when ever you need to and then back to RWD when you don't need 4WD, no stopping needed.

You do need to stop to get into and out of 4low

2001 and up Rangers have full time LOCKED front hubs, Ford calls it "Live Axle"
Absolutely does not hurt anything to leave front hubs locked, but since you can unlock yours, you can pick up .2-.4MPG while they are unlocked

 

[4x4junkie]

A manual hub (or t-case) will not unlock (revert back to 2WD) if there is tension or bind on the driveline (maybe some here might remember systems from the 1970s where hub dials and t-case levers would be jammed in position if there was any bind on the system, you literally could not move them at all). You need to back up or otherwise release the tension before that gear is physically able to move (blipping the throttle while going forward in a straight line can very often release the tension long enough for it to disengage as well).

 

[RonD]

A manual hub (or t-case) will not unlock (revert back to 2WD) if there is tension or bind on the driveline (maybe some here might remember systems from the 1970s where hub dials and t-case levers would be jammed in position if there was any bind on the system, you literally could not move them at all). You need to back up or otherwise release the tension before that gear is physically able to move (blipping the throttle while going forward in a straight line can very often release the tension long enough for it to disengage as well).

Yes, manual hubs will not turn to unlock if there is still axle tension, and in that case moving vehicle one way or the other would release it
Should have included that

 

[pjtoledo]

or just run over a couple of small bumps, anything that bounced a wheel. worked on my 'ol 77 F150

 

[Curious Hound]

How do I know if I need camber bolts?

easy. If there's an empty hole where they used to be - then you need some.

 

[fastpakr]

I would definitely change over to the one piece type. Those should have replaceable ball joints so you don't have to swap the complete arm in the future.

As far as camber bolts - I think it's a good idea. If there's any chance you'll ever lift the truck down the road, it'll save you money on an alignment shop installing them for you.

 

[don4331]

Let's slow down

The passenger side has an adjustable upper a-arm for caster adjustment.

So, unless his truck was built perfect (or he doesn't care about alignment), he needs the adjustable upper a-arm.

Both the one piece (driver's) and adjustable (passenger's) and be found with/without replaceable ball joints.

And if you don't have camber bolts, you will know because the a-arms will have fallen off. The camber bolts hold the upper a-arms in place.

 

[don4331]

I thought about this a little more last night; And the question is probably does one need to replace camber bolt, rather than does one need camber bolts.

The answer being - the camber bolt shouldn't need replacement except in areas of extreme corrosion as it doesn't wear.

What can wear are the camber cams which slide over the camber bolt - they can get "flat spotted" in their historic position and then it becomes challenging for alignment shop to make a small change. If you are replacing bushings in the a-arms, replacing the camber cams is simple, preventative touch.