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4 inch lift with 35s


I'd say 4.88 I have 5.13's a little low but still run 70 on the freeway
 
thanks for all your response, im trying to deside what gearing to go with, either 456 or 488. i still need to go on the high way and if she be running at 3 grand going 100km then ill need ear plugs.( i just put headers in) but i still what slow crawl. :dunno:, i dont really know what i what to do. ideas

thanks dave,

Being you have a 4.0L, 4.88 would probably be perfect. 4.56 is not really enough for 35s (perfect for 33s though).
 
I run a 4.0 with the A4LD and run 4.88's. She runs under 2500RPM's on the freeway at 70-75mph. However, my rig is pretty heavy with the roll cage, armor, bumpers, winch etc (tipping 5k on the scale). If I were to do it again I would go for the 5.13's for a little extra grunt! Obviously 4.56 or 4.10's are out of the question!
 
Yes it will hold up, but you'll have to do some upgrades.

Mainly:

Spicer 5-760x's U-joints, and mod the yokes to take FULL circle snap rings.

C-Clip external eliminator (on the slip yoke of the passenger axle-shaft).

Warn Manual Heavy Duty Jeep hubs (not the stanard ones)

And if you have problems with toasting wheel bearings, swap D44 F150 outer knuckles onto your current beams.

Check the tech library, there are articles on all that I've mentioned.

Do u have pics of your rig with the 33s? Been thinkn of gettn the 33x10.50 km2's as well
 
Do u have pics of your rig with the 33s? Been thinkn of gettn the 33x10.50 km2's as well

Go here, starting with page 24 I have various pics. None wheeling, but I'll get some up eventually. They work great. Awesome size tire. Nice size, with alot of grip due to the narrow width. I'm getting between 15.5-15.88 mpgs too....70mph on the freeway. Around 285 miles per tank. Dunno if that could be said with a 33x12.5.

http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75235&page=24
 
I've been running 35's on 4" lift for a while on a D35/8.8 combo. Did a pretty large fender cut though. Here's what mine looks like.
001_2759.jpg

001_2761.jpg

I cut out the entire factory flare and welded in new sheetmetal in the rear. In hindsight (And what will be happening once it's on FW axles) I should have just cut out the entire factory tub and re-tubbed it with my own custom one. Get at least 4.88's.
 
Nice ride Andres!

Be careful posting pics with your beadlocks...some TRS folks seem to think that they are deadly and can fly off at any time! :icon_rofl:
 
Nice ride Andres!

Be careful posting pics with your beadlocks...some TRS folks seem to think that they are deadly and can fly off at any time! :icon_rofl:

In that case, they're bead"looks". :icon_rofl:
 
so i bought 488 they,ve been ordered from this site, but i have to waite like two weeks cuz its getting shipped to the place my parents are vacationing at and there driving it back to bc. im so excited and i have to wait alittle bit to buy tires so i guess im running 488s and 33s for awhile, im afraid ill like the crawl and not buy 35s.

thanks dave,
 
Daveguy... you want crawl? One word... DOUBLER!

I think my t-case doubler is one of the best mods I have done!:yahoo:
 
oh i've done my homework on a doubler and id love to but that would mean my truck wouldnt be my dd. and pictures, i would also love to if i could figure it out how. help? ps if anyone is selling one ill buy it. i can find another dd

thanks dave,
 
Why couldnt it still be a DD with a doubler?
 
well it could be but i kinda ment while i the doubler but i guess i could just buy another t case. can u use a manual tcase and a auto? man i really want to do you know.
 
Yes, you can use a manual and auto case. Its actually easier that way. The auto case will be the full transfer case and you can still use theoverhead controls or the dash controls to shift it. The front or half case has to be manual. You can go to the wrecking yard and get the t-case shifter setup and it bolts right in and looks stock! If you run two maual cases, you will have to start fabbing up linkages.
 

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