4.0 SOHC head gaskets/timing chains

[JJMaine]

I've got my engine out and am getting ready to start taking it apart so I wanted to start this thread to ask a million questions lol.

My first question is on the timing chain kit. It's the only thing I have yet to order because Im not sure if mine has a balance shaft but I'm hearing that even if it does, I can just delete it? That would save a few bucks on the kit and a little less work. Any downsides to that?

Next, is there any reason to take the exhaust manifolds off the heads if I'm just taking the heads off and putting them back on with new gaskets (I hope!). If there's a good reason to I don't mind doing that but again trying to save some (maybe a lot) work.

Was contemplating leaving the camshafts in place to but I think it'll be better just to take them out and reinstall for the timing process? I bought a valve compressor tool to get the roller followers out that allegedly is specifically for the 4.0 SOHC so hopefully that'll make it a smooth process. Unless of course it's smart to just leave them in?

You can see in the photo, the top right arm of my engine stand is in the way of the rear timing chain bolt. You think it's safe to remove that arm when it comes time to remove and replace that bolt? It just seems like a lot of engine already on 4 m10 bolts and then to remove one so it's only hanging by 3...? I couldn't find a better way to position my engine stand, it's the small harbor freight variety.

Also taking bets. My truck has 115,000 on it, will there be any broken timing chain guides?. Thanks guys, I'll have a bunch more questions as I tear into this thing.

 

[avid]

The heads are heavy so removing the manifolds makes them more manageable. You'll need to clean the head/deck mating surfaces (at least).

Removing the manifolds is a can of worms for sure, but it might not be terrible to remove them while you have the engine out so if any studs break you will have better access for replacing and then slather them with anti-seize before re-installing. That's what I would be thinking about anyway.

 

[JJMaine]

Yeah good point. I went ahead and took them off. This truck being from Arizona everything comes off just about as well as you could hope. A little heat and they all spun right off. All but 2 took the stud and all which is fine. May as well replace them all at the end anyway.

 

[JJMaine]

Is it possible to delete the balance shaft (if I have one) without removing the upper oil pan/girdle does anybody know? I've decided to order the Cloyes kit without the balance shaft parts and am wondering if I need an upper oil pan gasket?

 

[SenorNoob]

Depending on what you've already ordered, there might be a "rebuild" kit with all the gaskets to save a few bucks.

 

[JJMaine]

I've ordered most of what I need. There are a few things I will need to get other than the timing components but can wait until I'm putting the engine back in.

 

[JJMaine]

Sweet, no balance shaft anyway!

 

[JJMaine]

Okay first question of the day. I'm using the valve spring compressor to take the roller followers out and on 3 of the valves the cam lobes are pushing down on them and not allowing me enough room to push the valve down and remove them (at TDC). Is it okay to spin the engine to relieve pressure off of those valves to get the followers out? Also how to spin it with the harmonic balancer off? E torx on the jackshaft? Thanks for the help good sirs!

Btw, this Ares 15084 valve tool works perfectly for this engine.

 

[JJMaine]

All of the followers are out and camshaft sprockets off (and then back on for safekeeping after chain removal). The manual makes no mention of TDC at all before tear down so I figured it would be alright to spin the engine. Next step is to get the heads off this afternoon. I'll order the Cloyes kit tonight and should be in business.

 

[JJMaine]

I've been catching a few tips on "Platinum Productions" YouTube videos on the 4.0 SOHC. I may try to leave both the front and rear jackshaft sprockets and chains in place and just slip new cassettes in so I don't have to buy new stretch bolts.

Looks easy to do on the video and I don't think I NEED new chains and sprockets do I? I've read that they last well over 300k miles and my engine looks to be in fine shape with no broken guides?

Curious as to what that noise was in the video I shared of my truck idling a while back. Now I'm thinking I left a sparkplug wire not plugged in all the way? I had had a few of them of and on bore scoping the cylinders?

 

[gw33gp]

The chains and sprockets should be good for a very long time. I replaced them at 250K miles when I did a complete cam timing chain rebuild. I wanted everything new since I already had it apart. I did not change the front jackshaft sprocket because I was sent the one for an engine with the balance shaft. It created a misalignment with the crankshaft sprocket. So, I reused the original one. I now have over 311K miles on it with no problems.

If you can replace the cassettes without removing the cam sprocket, go for it. Since you are removing the cam, it may be possible. I did not remove the cams but removed the sprockets. As I recall the rear cassette was not too difficult, but the front one was not so easy.

Make sure you have a good O-ring for the bolt the holds the rear cassette. I could not find one that fit correctly and used an oversize one that I sanded down on a lathe. It must have worked because I have no leak there.