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4.0 OHV Dyno w cam upgrade


Probably.

Realistically, where he’s at now with his mods, the old computer is probably not giving him full performance anymore. Close enough to work, but I would have expected slightly more.

Wonder what a free-floating rocker mod or some roller rockers would do for that as well. If I could get out from under all of the projects I’m buried in right now and free up some cash, I’d like to rebuild a 4.0 with all the goodies I can come up with just to see what it gets me.

@holyford86 , got anything to add?
That's also my plan sometime soon. Adding a piggyback chip and doing some tuning can never hurt.
That was always my understanding.. computer can only properly meter air over the stock maf in a stock diameter intake. Make changes and its gonna be like "TF you trying to do here buddy?"

Sounds like a decent time to buy a twEECer for the op though 🤠
I've noticed no real difference with my intake which is far from stock. The big thing I've noticed is it helps to keep turbulence down on the intake side of the maf. Other than that, as long as it's within the range of airflow it's capable of measuring it's fine.
I'll have to keep a look out for one of the older maf with a calibration tube, at least according to the tech pages that would run on the stock ecu.
Most likely going with megasquirt or another stand alone. Trying to manipulate the older computer is a pain between lack of knowledge (no one is using these on the tuning market anymore) and availability. Id hate to spend 300-400 and brick something. Stand alone I can always go back to stock if needed.

I don't think the rocker modifications are really going to net anything until I can go to a higher rpm range. 4900 redline isnt exactly screaming for a valve train. In the plan, just ran out of time before the race event.
The older computers can be tuned using a piggyback chip connected to the J3 port in the back of the pcm. Tweecer is the only one left as far as I know. They have a version that allows real time tuning on the fly. As far as I know they can be used with the same software that is used to tune megasquirt stuff, so the learning curve may not be very large for someone with experience.

I've run into a wall with airflow on my supercharged setup as well, interesting to me, even with the mods you've done it still seems to run into a wall at higher rpms in your case as well.

I think this is applicable for the truck in it's entirety. Was 4x4 auto, now 2wd manual, been racing in the danger ranger events with cleetus, road courses with nasa. Can't threshhold brake to save anything, keeps locking up the tires. Did the 95+ spindle mod, next I might get some lowered arms and flip the axle in the back for better cg. Short cab, long bed, weighs in at 3100 lbs with 5 gallons of gas. Fuel cuts on hard braking depending on how ful it is.
Not sure if the early plastic tanks have baffling of any kind in them, I know my metal tank has absolutely nothing for baffles. If I'm on the throttle hard at a low tank level it'll sometimes run out of fuel until I'm off the throttle.

You can always go back to stock with a tweecer.. and the folks who make them offer tuning services at a relatively reasonable rate.

Not only that but.. the boxes are "universal" to all Ford eecv computers so.. if you ever get tired of the ranger and wanna sell it you can remove the tweecer and potentially put it in your next Ford project.
Correct, everything is stored on the chip itself, remove it and the stock EEC calibration takes over
 

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