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4.0 EFI to Carb for race truck???'s


kelly1450

Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2009
Messages
5
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Automatic
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Hello, I hope I put this in the right place, regardless I think I it will get more views here. I have a 1993 ranger with a 4.0 that I am looking to convert to a carburetor setup. I know this may seem going backwards but this truck is a race truck and the main goal is simplicity. I bought the truck in2001 stock and have been building it and racing it since as of now I am the points leader in MDR’s 1450 class with the truck. the reason why I want to convert as I stated above is simplicity. The stock EFI is reliable enough but in racing situations I want something I can work on the side of the trail. I have already had problems with different sensors going out on the stock EFI and don’t want to deal with these problems in the future.

I know this conversion has been done before and i actually owned a truck when I was 16 that had it done but that was a long time ago and I was far less knowledgeable then. What I would like to know is what manifold to use and mainly how to do the ignition. My fabricator and partner in the truck has full access to CNC and any other machining equipment so custom parts aren’t the issue. Really I would just like to gain shared knowledge of others that have done this swap, and any other information that would help in doing the swap. Thanks for your time and for any advice given

pics of truck at last race at above links
 
This question has been asked a few times over the years but I don't remember anyone resolving the distributor issue.
 
It's easier and cheaper to learn how the EFI works and how to fix it.

It's generally FAR more reliable than a carb and once you learn how it all works
it's actually easier to fix.

Today is my birthday, I'm 48, but I won't own anything with a carb.

I have believed for 20years that the definition of a carburetor that says:
"A carb is a device that under any given circumstances will deliver the
WRONG ammount of fuel to the engine on which it is installed"

Carbs MUST be set up to run excessively rich which costs power and economy

Why must a carb be set rich? because there is no protection against
it running lean and destroying the engine.

an EFI system can run FAR leaner without wrecking things.
THAT is where the extra 20 horsepower of a 2.9 over a 2.8 comes from.

Ever wonder how a 4.0 EFI engine can actually make more power
than a 2bbl 302?

The other issue is that manifolds for carbs are carefully designed to
ensure even distribution of fuel to all the cylinders, if you try to simply
adapt carbs to an EFI manifold you will be disappointed.

the reason EFI engines usually exibit greater longevity is because
EFI isn't constantly contaminating the lubricant with unburned fuel
and combustion products.

AD
 
All the sensors,relays,coil packs,ignition module that could fail would fit nicely in a old ammo can that takes up very little space...Hell maybe even less without the can..
I think this is you not understanding the EFI and are afraid of it..You take the time to learn it..You'll change your mind...All you need is a jumper wire to read codes, and thats about all the High Tech you get...

Honestly if someone would take the time, they could slim the 4.0 harness down substantially, making it less scary looking..(whatever..)

Going to a aftermarket computer would be cool also, then you could have a harness that had the bare essentials to make it run, use different sensors from other manufacturers, Do your own tuning(A big step for you obviously..)

If it were me, I would bandsaw off the upper plenum and have a bigger sheetmetal upper fabricated for it with a mustang style throttle body flange welded to it at least 75MM and bigger...run as big of a throttle body as i could and feed it with a 99+Lightning MAF and ATLEAST 24 lbs injectors.... What RPM's is your operating range?

EFI can be made to have all the plusses of a carb without the minuses...thank the 5.0..
 
I’m not afraid of the EFI as much as I’m just over the vagueness on the diagnostic system it uses. Example is the last race, power and everything was fine till 20 miles in the race when I started to lose more and more power the truck eventually got down to 20mph. we stopped and tried to figure out the problem, could not and continued on our way to pit at pit we replaced the TPS and it ran better for half another lap and then started running poorly again. This cost me dearly in my finishing position. I got home and borrowed a ford techs obd1 scanner and it said the o2 sensors were bad so i replaced those for the second time and it also said there was a code 214 cylinder identification code so I replaced the coil, crankshaft position sensor, which did nothing and I will replace the camshaft position sensor and the mass airflow tomorrow. Problems like this would be hard to diagnose during a race and since this problem only happens when the truck has been driven hard for a extended period of time I am worried that I will get out there next race and the problem wont develope until half a lap is completed
 
40_carbintake.jpg

like this, any one have info on this setup? like he said, we do not care about making maximum HP or having 20+ mpg, he wants it to be reliable and simple, even with obd systems, an intermittent problem is hard to diagnose, especially when your 20 miles out in the middle of the desert...the stock efi gets about 5mpg as it is right now, so i dont think it could get much worse with a properly tuned carburetor. the racing team i used to work for had the most rough handling truck i have ever ridden in, and the carb on that was magic, never once had a single carb problem, many other desert racers favor carburetors for their simplicity. i would rather have one mechanical device that i can take apart with simple hand tools....
 
Don't get me wrong..I'm not touting fuel mileage....I realize you have a legit race vehicle here..I'm thinking once you spent a little money on the EFI that you could really have something rock solid reliable..

Anyhow I'm not gonna preach anymore, you say you want Carb Eh?

Ideally you'd want a sheetmetal rig..

http://www.wilsonmanifolds.com/content/view/14/28/

And I'd have these guys build me a carb...

http://www.pro-system.com/

And finally these guys for a stand alone Distributorless ignition....

http://www.emi.cc/
 
i personally think stick with EFI more potential there... your truck is set for it and your sensor and such will fail because of the ecm
 
Something to check. Check the compression on each cylinder. It may not be the EFI fault but something else.
 
what about a megasquirt system
megaWiring.gif


would allow to replace all sensors needing to be replaced, and rewire the system so your not bouncing around 16year old wiring, and give you more programability
 
That's where I was going with the aftermerket EFI, They have worked alot with Ford EDIS..

This would allow you to throw virtually any engine combo together and make it run..
 

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