4.0 Clutch Swap Questions

[MudSweatNGearz]

i have an 88' ranger supercab with 2.9 and an FM 146 tranny. i wanna do a 4.0 clutch swap i already have a 95' 4.0 flywheel i know i need the clutch, starter, and wires. which wires do i need? and can i use my existing slave cylinder and throwout bearing the reason im asking is because the one thats in it is not even a year old, or do i have to use one from a 4.0? if anybody has any answers theyd be greatly appreciated. thanks

 

[4x4junkie]

Use the slave for your model year (the line fitting is different on later ones).

You'll need a cable to go from the battery (or batt-side of the starter relay) to the starter motor, plus a #16 or so wire to go from the switched side of the relay to energize the starter solenoid.

This diagram may help:

 

[LittleHorse]

you also need the plate/tin that gets sandwiched between the transmission and engine. The hole for the starter won't match up to the starter itself.

 

[LittleHorse]

wouldn't it also work if wired as shown in the third diagram I added below?

That's how I'd planned on doing it before I saw this thread. The only difference is that the main power supply to the starter isn't hot all the time - it's only hot when the ignition switch is calling for the starter.

Obviously you don't want to have that jumper in there if you're not using the original starter relay....unless you want your starter spinning at all times the battery is connected.

 

[86freebie]

i don't know for sure, but i think there are wires on the top lug feeding off of it that require constant power. on the solenoid

 

[LittleHorse]

i don't know for sure, but i think there are wires on the top lug feeding off of it that require constant power. on the solenoid

there would be if the solenoid on the starter was the only solenoid, but in this case the only power there is for the starter. The constant-power wires are connected to the terminal on the relay mounted next to the battery.

 

[4x4junkie]

wouldn't it also work if wired as shown in the third diagram I added below?

That's how I'd planned on doing it before I saw this thread. The only difference is that the main power supply to the starter isn't hot all the time - it's only hot when the ignition switch is calling for the starter.

Obviously you don't want to have that jumper in there if you're not using the original starter relay....unless you want your starter spinning at all times the battery is connected.

No, that won't work (BTDT).

That causes the solenoid to remain engaged for a few seconds as the starter motor spins down after letting go of the key (current generated by the still-spinning motor holds it engaged). Meanwhile the starter pinion grinds against the flywheel of the already-started engine for that whole time.


As for the hole in the block plate, it's about a 2mm difference in diameter. A small amount of work with a Dremel will get it to fit.