4.0 clutch in 2.9

[Chic N Stew]

Has anyone ever done a 4.0 clutch and flywheel in a 2.9l, if so, does anyone have any pics of the project, thanks

 

[cocoasranger]

There is an article in the tech section on this under MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS which I followed and it worked out great.

 

[rickcdewitt]

get the positive battery cable and jumper harness from the relay on the donor truck so the electrical will bolt on without splicing.i'm not too impressed by the fancy starter but the clutch upgrade works good.

 

[Chic N Stew]

how much did the parts cost?

 

[rickcdewitt]

get a clutch kit and new flywheel,also slave cylinder.starter and wires can come from donor.300-400$ for parts.

 

[AllanD]

Or the parts (excepting the clutch iself) can be otained from a junkyard
for ~$125, less if you have a U-pull-it and pull the parts yourself.

ONLY the 4.0 MANUAL trans starter will work with the 4.0 flywheel

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[89REDRANGER]

I am getting ready to do the same mod to my truck. Is there any reason that the starter will not work on my 89 Ranger without the Explorer harness? I am actually doing this swap tomorrow morning and I can't get the harness around here and can't wait for one to be shipped. I HAVE to get this done tomorrow. Can I rig the factory wiring to work with the 4.0 starter somehow? If I don't get it done tomorrow, I will have no way to get around town, and back and forth to work.

 

[AllanD]

The later style starter is wired to the battery differently

the battery cable to the solenoid mounted on the starter
must be "Hot at all times"
and a second (smaller wire) added to trigger the solenoid
(uaually the fender mounted solenoid is used to do this, by moving
the fat cable to the battery lug so that the fender mounted solenoid
is only used to trigger the solenoid on the starter.

To do it this way you only need to add one relatively thin 12ga wire
from the switched lug on the solenoid to the small terminal on the starter.

The permanant magnet starter is much more compact, lighter, actually more powerful and uses less current to operate.

Though because it is more complex there is of course a greater potential for things to go wrong, if only to satisfy the gods of perversity.

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[89REDRANGER]

AllanD- So, what you're saying is that, I need to move the big power wire to the battery, and run a new wire from the fender mounted solenoid to the solenoid on the starter? Do you have any pics? The info in the Tech. Library is kind of vague. I want to make sure I am doing this write. Thanks.

 

[AllanD]

yes, it needs to be connected to the battery, I'm just quibbling over
the precise execution of how you do it.

The starter cable you have now will reach perfectly...
to the battery stud on the fender mounted solenoid
which incidentally is exactly how the factory wire it
on trucks that came from the factory with permanant
magnet starters.

you just need to add that second "Trigger" wire.

AD

 

[4x4junkie]

Yeah, that's how I did mine also (just moved the existing power cable over to the battery).

It should become fairly obvious as you start swapping it out.

 

[89REDRANGER]

Thanks for the help guys. I am starting the swap now. Lets hope I got all the RIGHT parts to do it. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[1wicked88]

Did the one on my brother's the same exact way. Night and day difference in the clutch and starts better too.

Matt

 

[89REDRANGER]

Well, I got the swap done. It is definately worth it if you have to put a clutch in anyway. I have a few little tips for people though. First off is you NEED the starter bolts from the 4.0. The 2.9 bolts will fit but you will never get a socket on the bastards. The head on them is big enough that it touches the starter housing.

Secondly, if you want a perfect alignment for the clutch disc and pressure plate find an old input shaft from one of these trucks. Cut the geared part off the end and weld a handle to it. MUCH better than those cheasy plastic alignment tools.

Third, take the O-ring off your slave cylinder hose and replace it with a brand new one. I bought exact replacements at Ace hardware for 45 cents when Ford wanted $6 bucks for the damn things.

Fourth, if you have a 2nd. Gen. Ranger, there is no way in hell that the starter cable will reach to the battery. Just hook it in to the other stud on the old fender mounted solenoid. The stud closest to the battery will provide a constant hot for the new starter just like hooking it to the battery would.

Fifth, even if it looks like a pain in the ass, take off the exhaust and Y-pipe. Much easier to work on things if this isn't all in the way. When you go to put the Y-pipe back in run a tap through the flanges on the manifold. It takes a 12mm x 1.75 tap and an 8mm twelve point socket to get up there. Also take the studs out of the cats and replace those with 10mm bolts and a flat washer on the side with the bolt head. Use a lock washer on the side with the nut. Usually it takes an air chisel to push those bolts out.

I got this all done in about 8 total hours laying on my back in the driveway (thank God it didn't snow). I love the clutch now. It is a lot more linear than the old clutch. It has a lot more flywheel weight also, so it definately makes it a little better for offroad where it might stall.

Anyway, just thought I'd share what I did and may make everyone else's life a little better.