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32x11.5" on 15x7" rims 07 2wd Sport...?


Raze

Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2007
Messages
5
Vehicle Year
2007
Transmission
Manual
I'm upsizing, the truck is stock, haven't turned the tbar so i've still got that silly 'rake'. I want to upsize and based on what I've read about the 2wd Sports/Edge having the same tbar setup as the 4x4s giving it enough clearance for 31-33" tires. I just need to know how much rubbing at stock height vs w/tbar crank if anyone has any idea.

I read about 07Ranger having 33x11.5"s on his FX4, but those are 16" rims if I'm not mistaken so I just want to figure this out before I plunge.

And the truck doesn't see alot of offroad time as much as it sees unimproved roads/wet weather.

Thanks for any assurances/dissuasions...
 
Rim diameter won't make any difference. If it were me, I would do 32" tires, and a TT. you shouldn't have any rubbing issues, and it will look much better...
 
Not sure if this will help ya any or not, but heres my experiences with different tire sizes and widths. Ive got an 89 4x4 so im sure front ends will be different. Ive had a set of 15x7 factory ford aluminum rims, the outlaw2 stlye with all the holes. While I had them I had a set of 28x10.50x15 Swamper SSR's and had no rubbing issues. Later I uped to 30x11.50x15 Swamper TSL's, at full turn they lightly rubbed my radius arms. Currently I have a set of 15x9 steel rims, not sure what model or backspacing though. On the front I have 35x12.50x15 Mud Kings, They rub considerably on my radius arms. On the back I have 35x14.50x15 Baja Claws, had to make 1.5" spacers cause they were rubbing the leafs lightly around 32 psi, but litterly grabbed the springs when i aired down to around 15psi. But its like I said, our front ends are probably completly different, but I figured ide share my experiences and hope it helps ya in some way.

Jon
:icon_welder:
 
11.50, in my opinion, is pushing it on a 7" wheel. Many do it without issues on their 98+ torsion bar trucks, as well as older TTB/I-beam trucks. You'll be looking at almost rubbing the innerfender at full lock on the steering wheel.

Crank the bars up some, on your 06+, you'll definately have to trim that valence some since it's so square where it's closest to the tire. But that's nothing a box cutter and some sand paper couldn't fix. If you don't crank, expect it to rub the inner fender some. I only needed a mild crank(approx 4 total adjustment bolt rotations).

I ran cranked bars, 32x11.50 on 8" rims without any rub. Remember...you've got the same front end as I, just missing an axle.
 
thanks guys that's what i was looking for
 
11.50 on a 7" wheel is crazy. you will burn off that set of tires so fast due to uneven wear its not even funny. you gotta go atleast 8" rims. and i would suggest getting a more negative offset wheel than the stock ones. 32x11.50 will rub at full turn whether you crank the torsion bars or not. i would go with something like a 15x8" rim with a 3.75 backspacing and -6mm to -19mm offset.
 
just to clarify 32x11.50 will rub all the time even with torsion bars cranked only on *stock* wheels

I didn't when I ran that same exact setup for a few weeks.......15x7 stock wheels and 32x11.50's....I then later went to 15x8 w/ 4" backspace. And again...no rub what so ever on mine with BOTH sets of wheels and cranked bars. Please cite your sources for "rubbing all the time no matter what with 32x11.50's". Because there's PLENTY of people who've ran that setup without rub. Shoot...33x12.50's can be ran without rub.





And just to clarify, offset and backspace tell you the same thing.
 
i tried to test fit a set of them onto my truck with the stock rims and at full turn i rubbed. they actually measured out to 32.4" so this may be why. i was just putting in what i know about the subject cause i have basically the same truck as the OP. and you wouldnt want 32's with stock suspension anyways. there wouldnt be enough clearance when flexing. my 31's fit pretty tight on stock suspension. and i do realize that backspace and offset tell you the same thing its just two different ways of measuring it.
this is my truck with 31s and stock suspension
DSC00105.jpg
 
i was just putting in what i know about the subject cause i have basically the same truck as the OP. and you wouldnt want 32's with stock suspension anyways. there wouldnt be enough clearance when flexing.

What? There is absolutely no issues running 32's man. I'll have whatever you're smokin!
 
11.50 on a 7" wheel is crazy. you will burn off that set of tires so fast due to uneven wear its not even funny. you gotta go atleast 8" rims. and i would suggest getting a more negative offset wheel than the stock ones. 32x11.50 will rub at full turn whether you crank the torsion bars or not. i would go with something like a 15x8" rim with a 3.75 backspacing and -6mm to -19mm offset.

Yeah... I got 25,000 miles out of these tires before they reached 50% treadwear.

2329500022_large.jpg

Treadwear was almost perfectly even because I rotate my tires every 7000 miles or so (like you're supposed to).
 
Thanks Junkie. I'd say 50k is pretty good out of a set of tires, don't you all think so? I know I got 50k out of my Goodyear MT/R's that I put on with 80% tread, and never aligned the truck after upper arm replacement or after the lift kit install. Camber and toe off.


Something worth noting, some tires like fatter wheels for a more even tread patch, others like a smaller wheel for a even tread patch. Then there's the air pressure variable on anything.


Another thing worth noting....you 2wd torsion bar trucks that are 07 and older, have 2" blocks in the back. 4x4's have 2.5" blocks in the back. Your truck sits more level off the showroom floor than 4x4s because of the smaller block. Up front, you're about the same if not THE same as a 4x4 as far as torsional crank. Yet another thing to note: you 2wd torsion bar trucks typically have lessor grade torsion bars compared to 4x4's, get that taken car of. Guy who posted silver truck with stuffed 31's appears to be suffering from really saggy torsion bars. My guess? F bars. Upgrade to B's or 1's and bump the rear block size. But half inch on the blocks isn't much of a differece, you CAN fit 33x12.50 MAX in the back with STOCK components. No reason at all 31x10.50's don't fit.
 
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Thanks Junkie. I'd say 50k is pretty good out of a set of tires, don't you all think so? I know I got 50k out of my Goodyear MT/R's that I put on with 80% tread, and never aligned the truck after upper arm replacement or after the lift kit install. Camber and toe off.


Something worth noting, some tires like fatter wheels for a more even tread patch, others like a smaller wheel for a even tread patch. Then there's the air pressure variable on anything.

True... IIRC BFG does recommend an 8" rim for their 32x11.50 tires, but to say it's crazy to run them on 7s they will wear so fast and uneven is incorrect.
I actually ran those tires at 38 PSI front, 33 rear. If I never rotated them, the rears would wear their centers out before the edges just because it's so light back there. However I would've still expected somewhere around 30,000 miles out of them before reaching the wear bars, which still isn't all that bad for a MT tire.

:beer:
 
wow you guys that ran them on 7" rims must just be luckier than me. i ran them and had very bad cupping and feathering on the side. and thanks for the info about the 2" compared to 2.5" blocks and the downgraded torsion bars. where can i get the upgraded ones and how much? also where can i get a 3" block for the rear? my bad for saying it was crazy btw
 
wow you guys that ran them on 7" rims must just be luckier than me. i ran them and had very bad cupping and feathering on the side. and thanks for the info about the 2" compared to 2.5" blocks and the downgraded torsion bars. where can i get the upgraded ones and how much? also where can i get a 3" block for the rear? my bad for saying it was crazy btw

Here are the part numbers for the #1 torsion bars.
F67Z-5B326-FA Pass side
F67Z-5B326-FB Drivers side
 

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