302/t18 swap questions

[Yettiyell]

Hey all!

I'm planning on swapping my 2.9 for a 302 backed by a t18 with a bw1356???...I think that's the transfer case that's behind it anyway. I have some questions for anyone with answers.

I have read through the stickies and the 302 swap write ups. I know what I need to do for the engine. The component that I am asking about is the transmission. Most people it seem swap in an aod or t5 or mazda. I k ow the t18 is overkill but it something I have laying around. So its cost effective for me.

The question I have is, since the t18 is so low geared is there a gear I can swap into my axle that could make up for the low gearing in the trans? What is recommended? What are all of your experiences with a set up like this?

Current truck is all stock. My302 ill be swapping will be extremely mild. Comp 4x4 cam ported e7 heads. Roller rockers and maybe some performance pistons (I haven't decided). 2bbl motorcraft carb. I will eventually add 4 inches of lift 8.8 axle swap and 33s which I know will drop my rpm down some at higher speeds. I most likely will not have the money to ALL of it at one time and because of this I ask that anyone who replies if you don't mind give me your best answer for the axle ratio with stock size tire and with 33s.

Entended result of the truck is mostly daily driver. Partial work truck. I know its a long shot but I'm hoping for 16 mpg...but with a t18 I know that's asking a lot.

Thanks for any help you have. I'd appreciate any input though on this setup if you have any words of wisdom. And I apologize if this has been covered before...I tried searching for t18 info and I wasnt coming up with much.

 

[fangotango306]

The t18 is still 1:1 ratio in 4th gear so it wont dribe any different than any of us with swaps running c4 autos. I ran stock gears (3.73) in my b2 all summer with a 29" tire. Tach would read around 2550 rpm at 60. But it was manageable. Got around 12mpg with a autolite 2150 two on my bone stock motor. I think the bigest issue your going to run s the height of the trans. I know the distance from the input to the trans bottom is a lot. It may hang below your frame. That being said. It can be done and would definitly be a stout drivetrain. That 7.5 rear though...may or may not like the power. Mine lasted 4 months after the v8 swap.

 

[fangotango306]

Also the bw1356 is really wide. You may run into clearance issues on ds frame rail.

 

[Yettiyell]

Thanks for the reply.

And yeah I know the tc is an extremely tight fit but its what i have...id like a 205 but I cant find one for less than 200 bucks around my area and the bw is free. I had never thought of the tranny hanging that low though. Thats the kind of info I was wanting to hear. I dont think it would be too much of an issue since I don't mud or rock crawl. But I wonder if I can make a skid plate to cover it up....

And yeah I'm very sure I will grenade my 7.5 when this is done I already have an 8.8 I can buy from a family member. My current tuck has 275 miles so I know that axle isn't as stout as it used to be. Lol.

And yeah I like that it is a stout drivetrain. Thats what I want. Dependability. Again thank you for answering. If you have any more info for this swap id like to hear it.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Non OD you are going to be hard pressed to get 16mpg. I have a C4 in mine and I get 11mpg with 3.73's and 31" tires.

Shifter is going to be up in the firewall, T-case will get very friendly with your frame rail.

A body lift will give you more room to work with both the engine and trans.

 

[Yettiyell]

Yeah I know 16 mpg is pretty unrealistic without overdrive.....I'm hopeing with the the correct fine tuning and good driving habits I can sompensate for lack of OD. That is also the reason I asked if anyone had swapped gears in the rear axle with a T18 to gear the truck a little higher. The other thing I am uncertain of is that eventually I want 33s.....with a higher rear axle ratio I dont know how it would drive with 33s. That's why I was hoping I would find someone with experoance on the matter.

And the shifter being in the firewall is something I had not thought of. How bad is it? Is there a build thread that you know of that would show pictures? I could always customize the shift rod if I needed to.

Thank you for the info. I appreciate the help.

 

[farmer]

I'm running a T19 and NP208, T18 and T19 are near identical. 3" body lift was absolutely needed to fit the transmission, the shifter was bent to clear the dash. I doubt you'll make the 1356 fit, the 208 sits inside the frame rail and is way off center to fit it all in. 1356 is even bigger than the 208. I might have a build here with pics, I don't come back often

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I'm running a T19 and NP208, T18 and T19 are near identical. 3" body lift was absolutely needed to fit the transmission, the shifter was bent to clear the dash. I doubt you'll make the 1356 fit, the 208 sits inside the frame rail and is way off center to fit it all in. 1356 is even bigger than the 208. I might have a build here with pics, I don't come back often

Pics would be great if you have them.

Notice any side effects of the offset t-case with the driveline (vibrations or other quirks?)

 

[farmer]

Pics would be great if you have them.

Notice any side effects of the offset t-case with the driveline (vibrations or other quirks?)

I'll see what I can dig up. Apparently no build pics were posted here. All the filehosting sites are a joke, looks like I can attach them here, probably have to resize them though.

No driveline issues, related to the transfer case. Pinion angle problems were magnified by V8 power. Once the rearend was shimmed correctly no issues. Reused the factory rear driveshaft, and the front driveshaft was shortened from the D44 swap, fit just fine as well.

With the transfer case literally in the C of the frame, any flex of the driveline through the motor and trans mounts makes the transfer case hit the frame. I've got a spot wearing down, but its on an extra cast portion, so I'm not terribly concerned. The no-lift-shifts from 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd are really the only time it bothers. 4 low 1st gear the motor swings toward the driver side, but its even pressure, not slamming. The header rubs the rag joint and makes steering when engine braking down steep sections tough.

 

[Yettiyell]

Thanks for the info. Pics would be great if you have them. Id like to see them. I figured I would bend the shifter to make it fit. How much of a lift did you need? I was planning on 4 inches but if I can get away with less id like to. I'm looking for a more suitable transfer case...but in the meantime this is what I have. I thought I had read on hear that the bw1356 will fit with slight frame notching? Is this wrong?

Again, thanks for the info. If you guys have more info dont be afraid to put in your two cents even if you feel its redundant. I like to take multiple opinions.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Bobby posted some stuff about NP208 fitment in my build thread that you may (or may not) find interesting.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1613210#post1613210

 

[Yettiyell]

So judging by the comments by bobby on your thread a 1356 is possible but very problematic. One of the pictures it looks like the upper portion of the frame was cut about would you say 3/8 deep 3 inches long along the frame. He mentions a body lift which is fine with me. II am goinf to lift the truck eventually anyway.

So let me just make sure I have this right....I need.

Body lift.
Frame work.
Possible clocking of the TC?

So I might be able to make it work with these things? Is that the right take away from what he said? Obviously 208 or 205 would be easier.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I am currently looking for a fullsize Jeep NP208 t-case or a NP205. Speedo drive is different between Ford and Jeep so you will need the Ford speedo parts and the trans output shaft may bottom out in the Jeep case and need to be trimmed.

 

[V8 Level II]

I have a BW4406 (from a 97~04 F150) in mine and it just clears the frame rail. The BW1356 is considerably wider than the 4406. I can't see how a 1356 would fit in my Ranger without radical reclocking or offsetting toward the passenger side.

Note that mine is a 2003 frame but I can't see the situation being that much different for other years.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I have a BW4406 (from a 97~04 F150) in mine and it just clears the frame rail. The BW1356 is considerably wider than the 4406. I can't see how a 1356 would fit in my Ranger without radical reclocking or offsetting toward the passenger side.

Note that mine is a 2003 frame but I can't see the situation being that much different for other years.

For us guys with mechanical speedometers the BW4406 has no speedometer drive.