• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

3 Scientific Experiments to Settle This | Wide vs Narrow Off-Road Tires - Tinkerer's Adventure


sgtsandman

Aircraft Fuel Tank Diver
TRS Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
U.S. Military - Active
TRS 20th Anniversary
VAGABOND
TRS Event Participant
Ham Radio Operator
GMRS Radio License
TRS 25th Anniversary
Joined
Mar 11, 2017
Messages
15,509
City
Aliquippa
State - Country
PA - USA
Vehicle Year
2019
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
4WD
Engine
2.3 EcoBoost
Transmission
Automatic
Tire Size
265/70R17
My credo
Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong. Plan for it as best you can.
Watched that the other day. Good experiment for what he tested and his applications, but he missed and/or ignored a few things that I think are important.

  1. Used the same wheel between different tire widths (315 & 255 Baja Boss). Putting the wider tire on the narrower wheel is going to affect contact patch, he should have used the wider tire on a wider wheel for more acurate test.

  2. When he compared the two wide tires (315 Baja Boss and KM2) they appeared to be on different width wheels, plus the beadlock would affect how they are allowed to flex on respective wheel. Same width tire should be tested on same width wheel and same beadlock/nonbeadlock.

  3. Compared worn/broken in tire against new tires. Broken in tire that's been run at low pressures is likely to have more flexability than a new tire. Adding the used KM2 skewed the data, should have compared all tires in same general condition.

  4. Ignored terrain variables. To be fair he said from the start that this was about the surfaces he runs on which is rockly terrain. Mud, snow, and sand are going to have different tire requirements. How they contact the tire is also going to be different than a solid surface like rocks. The tire needs to conform to the shape of the rock, where as the mud and sand are going to conform to the shape of the tire. Snow is something completely different.

Regardless of the testing results I'm going to go for style first on mine. The F-100 needs tall narrow tires, the F-250 needs a wider tire. Having said that, both are currently running the same tire (size, brand, and model). About stock size on the F-250 (I think), oversize on the F-100. Measure about the equivalent of a 32x10. Next time around the F-100 might go taller, definitely more agressive on tread, and probably about the same width.
 
Watched that the other day. Good experiment for what he tested and his applications, but he missed and/or ignored a few things that I think are important.

  1. Used the same wheel between different tire widths (315 & 255 Baja Boss). Putting the wider tire on the narrower wheel is going to affect contact patch, he should have used the wider tire on a wider wheel for more acurate test.

  2. When he compared the two wide tires (315 Baja Boss and KM2) they appeared to be on different width wheels, plus the beadlock would affect how they are allowed to flex on respective wheel. Same width tire should be tested on same width wheel and same beadlock/nonbeadlock.

  3. Compared worn/broken in tire against new tires. Broken in tire that's been run at low pressures is likely to have more flexability than a new tire. Adding the used KM2 skewed the data, should have compared all tires in same general condition.

  4. Ignored terrain variables. To be fair he said from the start that this was about the surfaces he runs on which is rockly terrain. Mud, snow, and sand are going to have different tire requirements. How they contact the tire is also going to be different than a solid surface like rocks. The tire needs to conform to the shape of the rock, where as the mud and sand are going to conform to the shape of the tire. Snow is something completely different.

Regardless of the testing results I'm going to go for style first on mine. The F-100 needs tall narrow tires, the F-250 needs a wider tire. Having said that, both are currently running the same tire (size, brand, and model). About stock size on the F-250 (I think), oversize on the F-100. Measure about the equivalent of a 32x10. Next time around the F-100 might go taller, definitely more agressive on tread, and probably about the same width.

I found the video interesting and the feed back is appreciated.

For me, I'm kind of locked in unless I change rim sizes. I can't find anything more narrow than the 31X10.5R15s I'm running on the 2011 and I have to be real careful what I put on the 2019 due to clearance issues with the suspension on the 2019, which are about 31.5" if I throw 265/70R17s on it. And I don't want to lift either one of them.
 
If you're set on keeping 15s for the 2011, I think the narrowest you can get is probably a 31x9.5. Interco makes some tires in some odd sizes you don;t find anywhere else, and they make the TSL in that size. Veryt agressive tread and probably not what I'd want to run on a street driven Ranger.

If you are willing to step up to a 16 and metric tire you can probably find more tires in the ~31" diameter ranger that are narrower and more suitable for a street driven truck with an AT tire.

I like using this site when I'm trying to figure out potential tire sizes and what is available for a given size. Probably doesn't show everything available, but covers a lot of whats out there.
 
That's kinda why I didn't comment Josh, there was just too much tech with too little results I got bored with it but scanned across it anyway in little tidbits.
I actually decided a long time ago the widths all had their place, actually from a great uncle telling me about the Dallas-Houston highway, before they had highways, in many cases through East Texas was just some deep sand.
He told me about the big wide tired Buicks getting stuck, and the the skinny tire Model T's pulling them out, that was enough said for me
 
Unfortunately in the world we live in scientific experts often reach a conclusion based on the narrative desired.
Too many variable were not addressed or were simply ignored. Rim width, terrain, tire compounds, even rim diameter.
X being a scientific factor for the unknown, and a spurt is a drip under pressure.
IMO.
 
That came across my feed a few days ago. But I didn't watch it. Glad to read everybody's take on ot here.

The real problem is that it takes some deep pockets to do a real ture comparison. When your talking about $800 on up for a set of tires, then add in different size wheels to keep the geometry right. Then you need equipment to miunt/dismount tires, or lots of money to have a shop do it. Then you need time, and even some assistants to go out and do the testing, trying different terrains, making sure you drive the same way each time, collecting and analyzing the data, blah, blah, blah.

It's very difficult for unsponsored amateurs to do meaningful tire comparisons.
 
Impossible to settle.

Way too many variables for a blanket statement of any kind.

You can test to your little hearts content and find the perfect tire for the terrain you are on at the moment. And then the sun comes out and dries the sand or it rains and everything is completely different.

Even fuel burn will effect balance and traction.
 
I'm pretty sure we can all agree for real world offroad performance sidewall is king over the rubber bands the bro dozers put on their useless things they call trucks...

I like the setup on my '90, 35x12.50-15 on 8" wide wheels, not the best at anything but works well for my needs
 
My rule of thumb:

If there is a bottom under that mud or snow, = narrower is better (helps you dig down to that bottom for more traction)
If there is no hard bottom, = wide tire to help float on top of it as much as possible.
Sand = wide tire.
Rocks = narrow or a medium-width tire.

Select a tire that is based on what type of terrain is most prevalent in your area/terrain you most-frequently drive on.
 
My rule of thumb:

If there is a bottom under that mud or snow, = narrower is better (helps you dig down to that bottom for more traction)
If there is no hard bottom, = wide tire to help float on top of it as much as possible.
Sand = wide tire.
Rocks = narrow or a medium-width tire.

Select a tire that is based on what type of terrain is most prevalent in your area/terrain you most-frequently drive on.

All I ever do when I dig down to the bottom in snow is throw frozen dirt, I kinda think the theory is a little overhyped.
 
My rule of thumb:

If there is a bottom under that mud or snow, = narrower is better (helps you dig down to that bottom for more traction)
If there is no hard bottom, = wide tire to help float on top of it as much as possible.
Sand = wide tire.
Rocks = narrow or a medium-width tire.
At what depth do you decide the snow is too deep for narrow tires ?
 
At what depth do you decide the snow is too deep for narrow tires ?
That’s more of a “time” than a “depth”. And the time is, right after you realize you’re hopelessly stuck and need a shovel and some ice melt and a tow truck.
 
I have found that thinner tires do perform better in the ice and snow than wider tires. The type and tread pattern also makes a difference.

A few people I worked with had vehicles with wide tires that were absolutely horrible. The wide tires make great toboggans.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top