3.5 Eco Boost into a 1990 XLT 4x4 5 Spd

[RangerDon1951]

Looking at dumping the anemic 145 HP 2.9 litre V6. I know that the rear axle is not strong enough. Update all brakes. Suspension upgrades? Mostly for the street. Steering and front end advice. Custom wood dashboard. it has gone 301,000 miles. Body is great. Pacific Ocean rust around the windshield and below. Bed pristine mostly.

 

[Robertmangrum.rm]

@bobbywalter ain't this what you've been talking about for a while now?

 

[sgtsandman]

Looking at dumping the anemic 145 HP 2.9 litre V6. I know that the rear axle is not strong enough. Update all brakes. Suspension upgrades? Mostly for the street. Steering and front end advice. Custom wood dashboard. it has gone 301,000 miles. Body is great. Pacific Ocean rust around the windshield and below. Bed pristine mostly.

Welcome! It is not a common swap but it has been done on some newer Rangers. Unfortunately, what has been done and posted is lacking in detail. So, while we might be able to give some suggestions, we don't have any hard info to give you.

So, please, whatever you end up doing, post it up with details. We have sections dedicated to build threads, whether it be 4X4, mini trucks (RWD), or engine swaps. If you plan on doing more than an engine swap, it might be best to separate the engine swap from the rest for others to better follow along.

Either way, good luck and keep us updated!

 

[bobbywalter]

i would use the 2.3 or a 2.0 ecoboost.

the complexity and the cost of the 3.5 is too much in regards to keeping it maintained.

i love the ecoboost 3.5 ...i am on my second powerboost, but there is a reason i lease them. ford quality otoh has myself severely disappointed lately.

that said, on a 2wd tib application i would suggest to swap to a mustang 2 or crown vic front suspension scenario, this would also allow a coyote swap later.

with a ttb 4x4....4 cylinder or the v6 engines, fitment would be difficult within oem suspension configuration.

i would swap to a solid front axle and make a custom k member so fitting the 3.5 was not a total disaster.

the 4 cylinder is easily capable of 300 hp and 400 ft pounds.

something a 302 will struggle with in terms of torque, because the ecoboosts are low rpm engines in relatives to power production. they have very good drivability as any current ranger owner should be able to say. even in the explorer they are pretty good. at least to me they are.

 

[Robertmangrum.rm]

Yeah I've had no complaints out of the 2.3. Used to tow 2 800cc SxSs never skipped a beat. I will say the one in my wife's 2025 Bronco seems to have a little more kick. That could be weight difference and transmissions. But my truck is way quick even sitting on 34 in tires and hauling about 600lbs daily. Would be awesome paired with a manual transmission haha

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Yeah I've had no complaints out of the 2.3. Used to tow 2 800cc SxSs never skipped a beat. I will say the one in my wife's 2025 Bronco seems to have a little more kick. That could be weight difference and transmissions. But my truck is way quick even sitting on 34 in tires and hauling about 600lbs daily. Would be awesome paired with a manual transmission haha

Bronco did get a slight hp bump and also has a lighter duty transmission (10R60 vs Ranger's 10R80)

Not sure on yours but they can also get goofy gears, our Black Diamond has 4.46 gears which with similar size tires (ours has 32's from the factory) could make for a difference compared to the Ranger's 3.73.

 

[RangerDon1951]

Welcome! It is not a common swap but it has been done on some newer Rangers. Unfortunately, what has been done and posted is lacking in detail. So, while we might be able to give some suggestions, we don't have any hard info to give you.

So, please, whatever you end up doing, post it up with details. We have sections dedicated to build threads, whether it be 4X4, mini trucks (RWD), or engine swaps. If you plan on doing more than an engine swap, it might be best to separate the engine swap from the rest for others to better follow along.

Either way, good luck and keep us updated!

I am kind of settled on putting a Coyote in. There are swap kits to help it fit. I know I will have to change out brakes and at least the back axle. I need A/c and PS/PB. Radiator swap kits are out there. I don't mind getting a worn out system and totally rebuilding to high end specs. My concer is if the frame is enough for a Coyote? Also tinkering with the thought of an automatic AWD set up for winter time in norther Utah. Maybe out of an Explorer. Also concerns about all the wiring synchronizing. I do not like the dash board and may opt to make my own out of exotic wood. Interior will have to be totally redone. Take down to bare metal.

 

[Snoranger]

I am kind of settled on putting a Coyote in. There are swap kits to help it fit. I know I will have to change out brakes and at least the back axle. I need A/c and PS/PB. Radiator swap kits are out there. I don't mind getting a worn out system and totally rebuilding to high end specs. My concer is if the frame is enough for a Coyote? Also tinkering with the thought of an automatic AWD set up for winter time in norther Utah. Maybe out of an Explorer. Also concerns about all the wiring synchronizing. I do not like the dash board and may opt to make my own out of exotic wood. Interior will have to be totally redone. Take down to bare metal.

I wouldn’t think twice about the strength of a 80-90s Ranger Frame. As long as rust isn’t an issue, it will handle the power.
I don’t know if I’d run an AWD Coyote setup through a TTB front axle. I know my right foot and it would break something.

You’re really going to swap an entirely different (30 year newer) drivetrain in and rely on 35 year old wiring in the cab? I’d build my own harnesses and replace anything that I can, at least the important stuff.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I wouldn’t think twice about the strength of a 80-90s Ranger Frame. As long as rust isn’t an issue, it will handle the power.
I don’t know if I’d run an AWD Coyote setup through a TTB front axle. I know my right foot and it would break something.

You’re really going to swap an entirely different (30 year newer) drivetrain in and rely on 35 year old wiring in the cab? I’d build my own harnesses and replace anything that I can, at least the important stuff.

First gens are not quite as integrated as a second gen but I left the stock wiring alone and it basically just runs the gauges and lights. I basically added a second electrical system to run everything I have added and the ignition.

 

[bobbywalter]

yeah....your frame is a beast sans cuts. any mods properly addressed will be a non issue. actual real steel in them.


the newer frames as long as never exposed to corrosion agents are stronger per se....but...good luck with corrosion agents.


stand alone whatever powertrain you choose. your a basic hotrod setup.

dont be afraid to get creative with cruise control, it can be an issue with the later stuff, you can build an older system to simply tug on the pedal instead of the throttle body or carb linkage....or course this means piggy backing or creating signals and maybe processors but its doable.


on swapping a coyote, THEE extremely EASY part is on the wiring and pcm side. just like anything else....you only need one simple thing.... a big FAT WALLET.


fitting the fat bastard in there is the tricky part. on a 2wd it is a non issue....awd or stock chassis 4x4....not so easy.

 

[JoshT]

Also tinkering with the thought of an automatic AWD set up for winter time in norther Utah.

I don’t know if I’d run an AWD Coyote setup through a TTB front axle. I know my right foot and it would break something.

Personally, I wouldn't even consider it as an option.

The locking hubs weren't designed to take that kind of abuse, and running them unlocked has the potential to cause transfercase issues. Just ask the guys on Explorer groups about running the V8 AWD units without the front driveshaft. You could possibly find a full time 4x4 hub (can't remember what the proper term for that is) that would fit and act like the later model Rangers and explorers, eleminating hub issues. Doing that would put all that stress on the u-joints in the axle shafts.

The later model stuff that had AWD (and later Rangers with live axle) used a completely different style suspension and CV joints in the front axle. The CV joints can handle the speeds and angles of highway operation. Those earlier axles with u-joints weren't designed for that on hard terrain. Not only are you likely to experience breakage, it could also cause issues with steering and other drivability concerns..

 

[Blmpkn]

Yeah I've had no complaints out of the 2.3. Used to tow 2 800cc SxSs never skipped a beat. I will say the one in my wife's 2025 Bronco seems to have a little more kick. That could be weight difference and transmissions. But my truck is way quick even sitting on 34 in tires and hauling about 600lbs daily. Would be awesome paired with a manual transmission haha

The 4 popper in the bronco has 5 more HP and 15 more torques weighs a few hundred pounds less than your truck too.. at least If it's a proper bronco and not a more-door.

 

[Jtrussell1890]

Found this thread as I was mentally toying with the notion of some one taking a mid 90's Ranger and trying to equip a 2.3 Ecoboost with a 5spd manual transmission. I'm sure somewhere out there some one has done it. Would be interesting to see the results and the comparison. Not exactly a reality for my own project, but interesting all the same.

 

[bobbywalter]

Found this thread as I was mentally toying with the notion of some one taking a mid 90's Ranger and trying to equip a 2.3 Ecoboost with a 5spd manual transmission. I'm sure somewhere out there some one has done it. Would be interesting to see the results and the comparison. Not exactly a reality for my own project, but interesting all the same.

the 2.3 eco boost is a monster.

there are quite a few. some on this board.

i thought there was one out at milan running 11.50s but it turned out to be a non ecoboost Japanese 4 whizzer in that truck....the explorer st's were smoking everything that particular weekend.....we were next door at the dirt bike track watching for a bit...i wasnt paying to go get a closer look...



the ecoboost mustangs on tune are running 13's and in the 12's with bolt ons....coolers....intake ect..."if" they can hook. usually this requires good tires and wild tunes...but for minimal investment you are hitting mid 12's..

.of course...just like the current bronco-rangers and ol focus and explorer st...fordruns junk intercoolers..run with these stock coolers they heat soak pretty bad....so back to back runs are hell....just like the sploders.

easy fix of course.

still....
that is amazing. there are way faster 4cyl ecoboost cars, but i am talking sub 1500...maybe 1800 in mods here....so...i can get a 2.0 ecoboost from an explorer for around 800-1300 range....and with 1000 in mods get gobs of low end torque you can never get from a 302 without boost and bone stock no mods makes more power than any 302 ever.... just think of it that way.




so for us old school ranger people.. its promising...

why its not done regularly is a mystery to me...there are...were tons of escape and edge and explorer 2.0/2.3 ecoboosts out there to rob for pennies compared to a coyote...



mustangs are 6-700 pounds more than a 90s 2wd reg cab ranger, so a good planting ranger setup could reach into 11's at 380 hp 440 tq area.....getting 310-20 whp just over 380 plus wheel tq is not hard to do with a cobb and simple boltons.. in a 2wd ranger that is pretty good. 351 power 300 pounds less weight. thats crazy......good crazy.

problem with a light 2wd ranger will be traction. the low end power of these will be overwhelming with no traction control ect... that is what hurts them at the track from what i have seen...anybody raw doggin with no traction control has a hard time going under 1.9-2 60 foots.


so the good is the bad....for a 4 cylinder, this is a low rpm engine. for a truck that is awesome....if you want to race...the stock turbo is the limit....when you get rid of that limit you remove the truck drivability...

a stock stang engine is about perfect for me with proper tune....so cheap and easy....less weight...less fuel...less heat issues under regular conditions.