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3.3 kit questions


i dont see how leaving a 225HP engine stock can cause it to loose to a 207HP engine that is also stock. those numbers dont add up.

Perhaps if you factor in the greater WEIGHT of the V8 vs. V6, then consider possibly LESS weight on rear axle w/ V8... and differing torque curves... it will add up...

OTOH, I remember test driving a '99 B4000 (4.0 OHV I reckon), manual, before I bought my 3.0, and feeling VERY little butt dyno increase...
 
the weight difference between 4.0 SOHC and 302 is about 150lbs. less depending on how the engine is set up. it would take close to 300lbs to make a 5.0 as slow as a 4.0 SOHC. the difference in traction will be miniscule. you would notice a larger difference between 2 sets of tires than you would with an extra 150lbs on the front axle.

a 4.0 OHV only makes 10-15 more HP than a 3.0...so if you know how to drive the 3.0 (it would appear you do), there wouldnt be much of a butt-dyno detectable difference.
 
this is a quote from the last email i got from morana:

Edwin,

The max hp. when your heads are ported (Stage 3+) with larger valves, heavier springs, hot cam,roller rockers, 11.1 compression, you should get about 240 hp.

Fully boosted (15-20 lbs.)will yield approx 350-375 hp. @ 9.1 compression.

To attain the 300 hp. range...you're looking at about 10-15 lbs. boost

As for the double rolling timing chain...it'll be a while yet (perhaps in the Spring)

Tom Morana,
Morana Racing Engines

if that helps, and im def doing the turbo, no sense in me building an n/a motor and maybe wanting more then have to gut the engine and change pistons to install a turbo l8r. if i want more pwr after the turbo install all i have to do is crank up the boost and recalibrate to accomodate it. thx for all the input, im trying to acquire more info on the forced induction section of the forum currently.
Im sitting on a similar fence as you, rurouni20xx, in trying to decide between a v8 swap and working my 3.0. The numbers quoted to you by Morana Racing are very edifying in that regard, but did they say anything about torque ratings along with all of that? Also, directing this purely cosmetic question at anyone that knows, would building up my 3.0 make it sound like a ricer? That is by far one of my greatest apprehensions, silly as it may seem, it seems a shame for a 4x4 to sound like it could have a ridiculous wing above its rearend...
 
the exhaust note will depend purely on how you set the exhaust up. it could be made to be as quiet as stock, or as loud as mine. the 3.3 stroker itself wont sound awefully different than a stock 3.0. just a bit rasiper and lumpier depending on what your final valve duration and lift ends up being.
 
the exhaust note will depend purely on how you set the exhaust up. it could be made to be as quiet as stock, or as loud as mine. the 3.3 stroker itself wont sound awefully different than a stock 3.0. just a bit rasiper and lumpier depending on what your final valve duration and lift ends up being.
a question back at you: all the build up being discussed in that last post that I qouted will require the use of premium feul right? I only ask because I am a newby at all this stuff and I would rather ask a ridiculous question than decieve myself with half truths...
 
that depends on what your compression ratio ends up being and what timing your planning on running. the engine could be built to run on any grade you want.
 
the 3.3 n/a buildup would be w/ 11:1 requiring the use of premium fuel. the turbo at 9:1 im not sure about, if you run the 9:1 naturally aspirated you can use what you want, i know this for fact. stock compression of the 3.0 is 8.9 or 9ish if im not mistaken, and i ran premium on occasion and let the additives clean the chambers and injectors a lil. i dont know for fact if it worked like that but after i ran a tank of premium every 3 or 4 tanks i did see an increase in fuel economy and power for a while when running regular afterwards. the lucas fuel treatment came in handy on occasion as well as i ran it every 7 tanks since my truck used 1qt of oil every 1000 miles for 2 yrs.
 
the stock squeeze is 9.3. according to morana, they will build the engine to any compression ratio you want (by modifying the pistons to order). you could run regular fuel in an 11+ compression ratio engine, but you would have to retard the timing, costing you power. so again, what fuel you run depends on how you have it set up and ultimatly what your goal is.

in my opinion, if your concerned with running premium fuel, then leave the motor stock. any time you raise compression or go forced induction, you increase the odds of detonation. if your commited enough to add the turbo or raise the compression, running premium shouldnt be a big deal. youve got to pay to play.
 

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