3.3 kit questions

[Gotta_gofast]

a 5.0 HO already makes 235HP. if you can find a donor for under $2K (and i sure hope you can find a wrecked 16 year old car for less than 2K), then you already have about 40% more power than a 3.3 stroker for less cash.

A 5.0L H.O. is rated at @ 225 hp but on the chassis dyno only lays 178-180rwhp.

 

[rurouni20xx]

theoretically what is the most power i could get out of the engine? and if its boosted would i need one turbo or two?

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

msn autos rates a 5.0 HO at 235...but even 225 is more than you would get from a n/a 3.3 and it would cost you less money to get there.

the most amount of power again depends on the engine. a bone stock 3.0 is good for around 250 HP boosted. a 3.3 could easily push over 450 HP with a high boost. one turbo would be more than enough for most "sane" applications.

 

[Gotta_gofast]

Right, factory ratings were 225. But thats not a good way of comparing power figures. In reality, your looking at 180rwhp if you swapped in a stock mustang 5.0L and manual trans. You could find a donor car cheap. Its not going to be a bolt in procedure. There are a lot of custom things to be made and bought. The cooling system alone costed me $600 for the ranger.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

it doesnt matter if we look at wheel horsepower or flywheel horsepower as long as we compare apples to apples. a stock 3.0 puts down 120 RWHP. a 3.3 stroker might put down 150 RWHP. a stock HO puts down 180 RWHP. its still more power for less money.

not sure why you have so much into your cooling system. most guys run a 4.0 2-row radiator ($60 from a junkyard) and dont have cooling problems.

 

[rurouni20xx]

sounds dangerous, i like it! well if i were to get the morana kit, completely port the engine, cam, 1.7 lifters, doublespring and oversize the valves, what would i need to do fuel wise, spark wise, and what size turbo roughly would i need to get around 10-12 psi, and what else would i need to do install it? never installed a turbo kit b4, which is kind of why i was staying away from it at first, wanted to stick to what i knew. granted this will be very slow as my money comes as slow as molasses, but i feel it will be worth it if the hp figures are accurate. not going for full 450+ as that would be a high maintenance race engine, but opening it up a bit to around 300 sounds good, as it will be used for common runabouts. considering the truck weighs considerably less than a fullsize pickup and if i can get that amount of power from it i think it would do well. thanks for the input.

 

[Gotta_gofast]

Cuz I have an aluminum 4 core radiator and dual electric fans. It costs money to do a V8 swap the right way. If you use junkyard parts, you'll have a junkyard truck. A 4.0L radiator might keep a stock 5.0L fairly cool in most environments. IMO all the work to swap a 5.0L in for an extra 50 or so hp is not worth it.

Like I said, you can build it right and not have to worry about breaking down or you can drive down the street hoping none of the junkyard parts and cheap fab work break when you get on the gas.

If you're a serious contendor then a V8 swap is a good asset. But for an extra 50hp, supercharge or turbocharge the 3.0L.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

as i said before, the 2-row explorer radiator is what many of the v-8 swap guys are running and have no cooling problems. 225 HP is easy to cool.

there is no "right way" to put an engine that doesnt belong into a vehicle. you can run out and buy the biggest and most expensive parts, or you can use parts that just work. its purely personal preference.

and i agree that turboing the stock 3.0 is a better option if your only looking for about 250 HP or so. but the stroker kit is not more cost effective than a v-8 swap if hes staying n/a.

as for sizing the turbo, find a factory application that puts out your target HP and snag the turbo off of that.

 

[rurouni20xx]

i appreciate all this and im hearing what i wanted to hear, n/a 3.3 isnt the way to go for the money, thats what i was afraid of. the turbo does sound better now that i see some experienced input, im going to look into the sizing etc, thanx again for the input. mr burns from the simpsons: "dammit smithers, this isnt rocket science, this is brain surgery! hand me the ice cream scoop!!!"

 

[Gotta_gofast]

I think there is a "right" and wrong way. I've seen some real hack jobs. Guys gettin beat by 4.0L SOHC rangers with their stock 5.0L ranger because they dropped in a stock engine with junker parts. By "right" I meant a quality and reliable V8 swap. And you're not going to get that with a low budget. It is the same idea as the 3.3L stroker. There's a lot of money involved and not a lot to gain unless you further invest money. Then its totally worth it.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

i guess were going to have to agree to disagree here then. ive seen plenty of reliable junkyard builds in person. v8 swaps in rangers are very common place these days. theres not much more to it than plopping the motor in place and making a few known modifications for fitmant. theres no reason to buy everything new and theres no reason to buy the most expensive parts you can find. i dont see how leaving a 225HP engine stock can cause it to loose to a 207HP engine that is also stock. those numbers dont add up.

 

[Gotta_gofast]

Not all 302s in the late 80's and early 90's were rated at 225 hp. Some were as low as 180hp. If an auto, the factory AOD trans uses a lot of power and has a low stall speed of 1600rpm unless its a mustang, then its 1900. I've been there and done that. It takes about 90 hours to do a swap if you have all the tools and equipment along with all the parts on hand. If its your first time and you are "learning" as you go, look into 130+

 

[rurouni20xx]

we can agree to disagree on everything, thats what makes us human. im using new parts for the engine, the turbo i may find something used, this truck is part new and part used w/ everything else. if its vital i say def new, if its something minor (door, radio, window roller) by all means if you can get it cheaper go used. thanks for the input on the tranny gofast and thanks for the engine estimates sludge. as the money comes and time goes on, ill be updating on the build, may even invest in a digicam for the rest of the world to see. even if its for the benefit of others to see what is involved or thank god i seen that problem and how he dealt w/ it cuz i would have been stumped/skrewd.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

Not all 302s in the late 80's and early 90's were rated at 225 hp. Some were as low as 180hp.

i wasnt talking about installing the 180HP weezer...i was talking about installing the 225 HP HO

 

[rurouni20xx]

this is a quote from the last email i got from morana:

Edwin,

The max hp. when your heads are ported (Stage 3+) with larger valves, heavier springs, hot cam,roller rockers, 11.1 compression, you should get about 240 hp.

Fully boosted (15-20 lbs.)will yield approx 350-375 hp. @ 9.1 compression.

To attain the 300 hp. range...you're looking at about 10-15 lbs. boost

As for the double rolling timing chain...it'll be a while yet (perhaps in the Spring)

Tom Morana,
Morana Racing Engines

if that helps, and im def doing the turbo, no sense in me building an n/a motor and maybe wanting more then have to gut the engine and change pistons to install a turbo l8r. if i want more pwr after the turbo install all i have to do is crank up the boost and recalibrate to accomodate it. thx for all the input, im trying to acquire more info on the forced induction section of the forum currently.