3.0 won't be slow

[PetroleumJunkie412]

So, any chance you can shoot a few pics of the ports? Curious to see how much potential is there

 

[Curious Hound]

Sure. Not tonight. I got into the wine with my pasta and Italian sausage..

Watching "Criminal Minds" now.

 

[Dirtman]

Dang wino!

 

[Curious Hound]

It looks so small and helpless this way.

Insides look ok to me.

 

[Curious Hound]

I tackled the broken exhaust manifold studs today. I'm not sure if Mapp gas isn't hot enough or if these were just really stuck. The wax trick didn't work for me. I had heated the studs til they were red. But they only barely got to a dark dull red, not bright cherry red/orange. But I don't have an oxy-acetylene rig yet. So I have been soaking with OB Blaster for quite a while.

No joy.

Today I drilled them out and ran a tap through all the holes to clean the threads. They still fought me right to the end. Did the best I could. But one hole got drilled too far off-center. Anybody recommend a repair? Would a helicoil be ok? That's my first choice. Second choice is to use a longer bolt in that hole and put a nut behind it. Or I could tap it the next size bigger.

The one that got messed up.

 

[8thTon]

If you have to do that again, grind the broken bolt off flat. Make a drill guide/bushing out of a piece of metal using two of the good holes to position the guide. Use a small diameter bit to make a hole in the guide that is right over the nominal center of the broken bolt - then you can make a pilot hole right down the center.

You can still use that approach to drill out a larger hole for a helicoil, but you'll have to use a larger guide hole of course. And you'll probably want to make the guide out of steel so it's strong enough to keep the bit from walking.

 

[Dirtman]

It looks so small and helpless this way.

View attachment 39375

Insides look ok to me.

View attachment 39376

View attachment 39377

This style thread repair insert works better than helicoils for this situation.

 

[Curious Hound]

This style thread repair insert works better than helicoils for this situation.

View attachment 39942

I do like those better and have used them many times in the past. But that would require drilling a much larger hole that I'm afraid would weaken the tab.

 

[Curious Hound]

If you have to do that again, grind the broken bolt off flat. Make a drill guide/bushing out of a piece of metal using two of the good holes to position the guide. Use a small diameter bit to make a hole in the guide that is right over the nominal center of the broken bolt - then you can make a pilot hole right down the center.

You can still use that approach to drill out a larger hole for a helicoil, but you'll have to use a larger guide hole of course. And you'll probably want to make the guide out of steel so it's strong enough to keep the bit from walking.

That's a good technigue, thank you. I actually had a set of easy-outs from Blue Point that included drill guides that would have slipped over the remaining stud I had sticking out IF they were metric. But I only had the SAE set and they didn't fit close enough. I still tried the easy-outs and broke 2 of them.

I also tried bolting the exhaust manifold on to use it as a guide like what you are suggesting. But there is too much clearance in those holes. In fact, it was such a sloppy fit I didn't feel comfortable that I could center it over the hole in question. So I eye-balled it as close as I could, center- punched a mark, and started my hole with a center drill like you would use in a lathe. I figured the center drill would be straight and also stiff enough to resist walking.

That damaged hole will be close enough to guide the drill for larger threads or helicoil threads. I'll make the final decision and repair it later when I have headers in hand so I know how much clearance I have for a fastener and wrench.

 

[8thTon]

That's a good technigue, thank you. I actually had a set of easy-outs from Blue Point that included drill guides that would have slipped over the remaining stud I had sticking out IF they were metric. But I only had the SAE set and they didn't fit close enough. I still tried the easy-outs and broke 2 of them.

I also tried bolting the exhaust manifold on to use it as a guide like what you are suggesting. But there is too much clearance in those holes. In fact, it was such a sloppy fit I didn't feel comfortable that I could center it over the hole in question. So I eye-balled it as close as I could, center- punched a mark, and started my hole with a center drill like you would use in a lathe. I figured the center drill would be straight and also stiff enough to resist walking.

That damaged hole will be close enough to guide the drill for larger threads or helicoil threads. I'll make the final decision and repair it later when I have headers in hand so I know how much clearance I have for a fastener and wrench.

You can be pretty far off on an exhaust bolt, those holes are usually pretty sloppy!

Easy-outs are the kiss of death - the damned things break off and then you have a chunk of carbide steel stuck in there. I hate those things and I will never try another one.

I did buy some left hand drill bits which worked quite well - as you get out to near the threads sometimes the remaining bit of screw/bolt will turn out. But I could not use them with the drill press, as it doesn't reverse!

 

[Curious Hound]

I've had left-handed drill bits work very well in n other situations. Judging by what I experienced today, I don't think they would have helped on these studs. Once I got them drilled extremely thin, I used a hammer and punch to try to spin them or fold them in on themselves. Even that had trouble breaking them free. It almost felt like my tap was going to break when it was chasing the remaining pieces out. Ohio was not kind to these studs.

The easy-outs I used were a straight fluted design. I felt ok using them since i had space behind the tab. So when the easy-outs broke, I could push them straight through with hammer and punch.

This wasn't my first rodeo. But it was a challenging one.

 

[19Walt93]

FE upper exhaust manifold bolts were the same, they went all the way through the head and often had to be drilled out.
The cylinder walls look like they would hone out and be fine, the bearing journals look good,too. Obviously they'll need to be checked for clearances but this may be a straight forward overhaul. I assume you're planning on a different cam, if not you should because of the wear on the syncro gear- the drive gear on the cam probably looks beat,too. When picking a performance cam for the street the rule of thumb is buy the next one smaller than you think you need. 3.0's are a nice little engine, I'll be interested to see how much you can improve the torque.

 

[Curious Hound]

FE upper exhaust manifold bolts were the same, they went all the way through the head and often had to be drilled out.
The cylinder walls look like they would hone out and be fine, the bearing journals look good,too. Obviously they'll need to be checked for clearances but this may be a straight forward overhaul. I assume you're planning on a different cam, if not you should because of the wear on the syncro gear- the drive gear on the cam probably looks beat,too. When picking a performance cam for the street the rule of thumb is buy the next one smaller than you think you need. 3.0's are a nice little engine, I'll be interested to see how much you can improve the torque.

Thank you. The drive gear on the cam actually looks great at least 90% or more better than that driven gear.. But I want a different cam anyway. I need to reread the info. But I saw something a month or so ago recommending different separation angles and maybe duration to be more conducive to supercharging. I won't go crazy. But it seems like a good place to help my cause.

 

[Dirtman]

Sometimes engines is never goes vroom...

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Sometimes engines is never goes vroom...

#Fiesta