3.0 manual transmission problems

[Snorky]

Hey guys,

I just joined, I usually am over on RPS but its down and i'm in the middle of a transmission nightmare. 2 weeks ago my transmission had trouble going in and out of gear, and if at a stop with it in gear with the clutch in I would start to hear a metallic grinding noise as if it were catching and wanting to push the truck forward. Sooo about 9 days ago my father and I rip into the truck taking it apart. We machined the flywheel, added the new clutch and pressure plate, and changed the slave cylinder. We just got it all back together and bled the clutch and it won't even go into gear now when the truck is running. I am running out of ideas and am fuming at all of this.

The only things we can think of is maybe the clutch/pressure plate aren't adjusted right, and/or maybe the new slave cylinder isn't compressing right. It seemed to take a lot more effort to compress the new one over the old one.

Any ideas/info would be greatly appreciated.

-Ryan

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

hopefully you didnt put the clutch plate in backwards....thats no fun.

you say the pedal has good pressure though? (it doesnt just go to the floor with almost no resistance?).

 

[Snorky]

hopefully you didnt put the clutch plate in backwards....thats no fun.

you say the pedal has good pressure though? (it doesnt just go to the floor with almost no resistance?).

Well the clutch pedal is lacking resistance pressure. It feels super light. Could it just need more bleeding?

I am almost positive we installed the clutch facing the right way, haha.

We are considering the following actions for tomorrow:
1. open up rubber grommet at bottom of trans and view the slave cylinder in action.
2. Try to bleed the system more.
3. more extreme measures like drop trans and adjust clutch plate.


How can one tell if the Clutch Master Cylinder is bad?

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

this is a hydraulic clutch, there are no adjustments to be had anywhere. if everything is put together properly, dropping the transmission again will accomplish nothing.

it sounds like the system has air in it. these clutches are extremely hard to bleed...especially if theres air in the master cylinder. the way the master is oriented while bolted to the firewall traps a bubble of air in the top of it, behind the piston...making it nearly impossible to bleed with it installed. my advice to you is to unbolt the master cylinder, turn it upside-down (line at the top) and bleed it this way. the easiest way to accomplish this is to remove the tire and inner fender.

a bad master cylinder will leak, not hold pressure, or not bleed at all. the first time i did my clutch, my master cylinder was working fine before we got air in the system. after the new clutch was in, we couldnt get the old master cylinder to bleed at all. turns out the teflon ring on the piston was shot. there was just enough of a seal to push fluid, but not air. replaced the master and the clutch pumped right up.

 

[Snorky]

this is a hydraulic clutch, there are no adjustments to be had anywhere. if everything is put together properly, dropping the transmission again will accomplish nothing.

it sounds like the system has air in it. these clutches are extremely hard to bleed...especially if theres air in the master cylinder. the way the master is oriented while bolted to the firewall traps a bubble of air in the top of it, behind the piston...making it nearly impossible to bleed with it installed. my advice to you is to unbolt the master cylinder, turn it upside-down (line at the top) and bleed it this way. the easiest way to accomplish this is to remove the tire and inner fender.

a bad master cylinder will leak, not hold pressure, or not bleed at all. the first time i did my clutch, my master cylinder was working fine before we got air in the system. after the new clutch was in, we couldnt get the old master cylinder to bleed at all. turns out the teflon ring on the piston was shot. there was just enough of a seal to push fluid, but not air. replaced the master and the clutch pumped right up.

hey thanks man, I'll try that at 5 when my dad gets home to help. I'll update later tonight about my progress

 

[Snorky]

I cannot seem to figure out how to detach the spring clip from the master cylinder, how does that mechanism come apart?

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

you mean from the pushrod?

boy...its been a long time. i think you just pull on it...

 

[Snorky]

you mean from the pushrod?

boy...its been a long time. i think you just pull on it...

well when removing the master cylinder, I unbolt it from the firewall, but do i need to take the pushrod off of the clutch pedal?

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

if i remember correctly, you have to take the pushrod off of the master cylinder to get it tiped up properly (theres no room to pull the master cylinder away from the firewall far enough for the pushrod to come through the firwall whilst still attached to the master cylinder).

 

[Snorky]

hey thanks a lot!!! I got it, its bled and my truck runs so much better now.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

glad to hear