all the 2wd suspension and TIB I beams need to come out, and you will need to pull the engine to get at the K member crossmember, so unless your gunna do a engine swap/rebuild or removing the engine for whatever reason, it doesn't really make much sense,
if you do go this route, your gunna need to cut with a torch/angle grinder/ ect the four K member to frame rail weld's, and remove a bunch of rivets
it suks but is really not bad if you can weld.
The SAS is the simplest route, really.
The next simplest is a frame swap (what I'm doing). Still only worth it if there's some sentimental value.
After that, it's not worth it. It's just too much effort. Even if you have the tools/equipment. Unless you really feel like making things difficult for yourself.
You really should consider keeping the coils, as mentioned most of what you need is already there. Radius arms are easy to fab using the stock 4-link points already on the axle (unless you're using an old YJ/CJ D30), and all you really need after that is a trac bar.
As for the transmission, you'll probably have much better luck getting a 4wd version of the same transmission you have and rebuild it, swapping the 4x4 output shaft and tail housing over. 2.3L 4x4 trucks are only slightly less rare than hens teeth. It's hard to find them, and even harder to find just the transmission.
i would say these points are subjective. a guy that can weld proficiently could k member swap in short order. of course that is provided the donor k member was easy to get at. if you had to disassemble a powertrain from the donor....naaa i would pass.
i have seen a truck get converted to 4x4 with section pieces with the engine in the truck....351 ho at that and a c6 so its definitely perspective. admittedly its beyond what i would do for a stock powertrain.
Have you ever looked at a JK coil? Stock, their installed height is around 12", way too short for Ranger SAS use. They are also too wide to fit in the Ranger's coil buckets.
Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk
jkcoil? front or rear?? ever look at a 150 coil? they told me they wouldnt work either way way back before i knew what the internet was...because there wasnt one.... granted soft springs may require canted seats to keep from flopping out, but the buckets hold 3.5-6 inch diameter springs ime with only minor issues for retention..... the stock buckets suck for using a straight axle though due to their design to suit the ttb, so custom buckets or even old 2wd ford buckets for full width axles give the best performance for a sas.
War is the difference in the rangers coil buckets vs the xj zj or tj? Distance between them?
not enough to worry about.
this link should be more then enough to get ya going....
https://sites.google.com/a/jeepinwv.com/tech/Home/new-d30---change
the leaf axle is 31 in.....ranger frames are not really very square....i dont have all of the frame dimensions in front of me, generally you simply make offset pads on the back side of the axle and a spreader out front so you have your 31 in center. i have also seen coil axles converted to leaf and spring over which involved a truss that put the driver pad right on the piglet and was centered under the rails conventionally which is pretty slick all around but makes the steering a little more work.....
this is typical spring over, the shortcoming should be obvious.
here is a 650 dollar can of turd polish which takes the pain out of the steering situation.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-TeraFle...Wrangler-YJ-TJ-XJ-LJ-MJ-1813000-/310605900698
there is a seemingly endless amount of turd polish for the dana 30....
basically in your shoes i would convert your trans to 4x4 and use a good xj or zj axle....probably a cad axle if it were me with a truss and a cable to shift it.....maybe even some oem cv joint axles so its smooth.
if the ratio worked out i cant see that taking me longer then 2 or 3 days to clean up and truss and stuff and a day to install and dial in.
but i would not be asking any of these questions either i guess.
hell you can make it a bolt in with the right component selection.
here is a good read....at the end pay close attention to the geometry of the steering etc in the photos....
http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Jeep-Cherokee-Dana-30-Axle-Rebuild.html
Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register
for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts. 
