.24-.39 fluctuating amp draw

[Firefighter Flareon]

Alright, for the past few weeks I've been having a spot... Well a spot wouldn't cover it, but a giant hole of trouble with my truck. It seems like during the first times it goes over 65 degrees, my battery gets drained more and more till it's eventually dead. Starter is brand new, so there's no trouble there. Alternator is new, second one in a year. Battery is new from last years debacle with this problem. Yet still, I'm having problems keeping my battery alive. It's a major annoyance considering I work in the local FD and truck problems put me off duty. I'm having a drain from somewhere, yet I can't figure out where it is. The highly rated electrical mechanic here hates working on Rangers, so I'm not going there. The Ranger in question is a 2004 Tremor (Pioneer audiophile system is stock). Now I'm an extremely calm, collected, and relaxed individual, but this issue has made me slam my head against the wall so many times I am extremely surprised there is no hole in it yet. The drain is anywhere from 240 milliamps to 390 milliamps, and it's driving me insane cause I have no idea where it could be, I'm paid to put the wet stuff on the red stuff and not fix things, so this is an extremely aggravating ordeal in my opinion. Thanks for your help. I'll give info if asked for.

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Your Ranger has a Battery Saver Relay and circuit.
This leaves most cab electrics powered for 30 to 45 minutes after key is turned off and doors are closed, so you can't really test for drain until the Battery Saver relay turns off all electrics.
After that you should see a .03-.07 draw, that is the Radio clock/presets and RAP module(keyless entry) draw.

Battery saver relay might be in the Smart Junction box(cab fuse box) in the passenger side kick panel, not sure on a 2004
But I would locate it, and with key off and pulled out, and doors closed pull out that relay, you should hear a "click" when it opens being pulled out, if no "click" then it could be stuck closed, causing the battery to drain.
But with Battery Saver relay removed check drain on battery.

GEM module will still be active, it is what controls the Battery Saver relay, GEM has the timer circuit that opens the Battery Saver relay after the 30-45 min., and GEM will also go "to sleep" at the same time it opens battery saver relay.


Couple of things to check.
Hood light
Glove box light
trailer connector, brake light wire corrosion can drain battery.

 

[Andy D]

That is a good draw. Is it possible the glove box light is on?

 

[Doofy]

Had same type of problem. Got fed up, tracked down the fuse that the drain was related to and pulled it to see if the parasitic drain stopped. It did. I then blew that fuse, soldered on a couple of wires and installed a switch with an inline fuse of the same amperage to protect the circuit. This worked well unless I forgot to switch it off.

I then saw a recall about a wire on the master cylinder that would short out and burn the truck up and your house or garage... I then just added a master disconnect switch and totally shut down everything now. No worries.

I do realize that things should be diagnosed and repaired properly but in this case I am not limber enough to stand on my head and troubleshoot and repair any thing under the dash.

 

[Firefighter Flareon]

Hey guys, thanks for the help!

Ron, I've been searching the kick panel fuse box diagrams and can not find anything about a battery saver relay, or a GEM module, but would it be the same thing as a Smart Junction Box? Also, there is hood light, trailer connector (no towing package) and the brake light lines are all good.

Andy, I went out and poked around at the glove box light and it was cool to the touch.

Doofy, first off thank you for your service to our country. And secondly I haven't thought about the Master cylinder, I'll check the wire there

 

[RonD]

yes, smart junction box is what Ford called the cab fuse box in '04.

GEM is usually behind the radio, Battery saver relay can be there as well, just not sure on '04

Owners manuals here: http://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...d-ranger-owner-manuals-1996-2011-models-3747/

 

[Andy D]

Quick and dirty would be a cutoff switch at the positive terminal. Until you find the trouble. Generally it will be on the constant power circuits

 

[Doofy]

Andy D, Why disconnect the positive side of the battery? I did it this way for many years then there was an epiphany and I started breaking the negative side. I can't remember why but it made perfect sense at the time. Pure hell when memory fades. Haha

 

[Andy D]

Andy D, Why disconnect the positive side of the battery? I did it this way for many years then there was an epiphany and I started breaking the negative side. I can't remember why but it made perfect sense at the time. Pure hell when memory fades. Haha

Yah you're right The negative is the easy, safer disconnect. I was trying to remember where the knob was on my dad's 68 C 20. What little wiring it had created a drain when it sat for weeks at a time.

 

[Doofy]

Yepper. I think I decided to break the "negative" for safety reasons. It is so hard to find a good place to install a disconnect switch and there was a worry about things shorting out. I just mount them under the hood now. More of a hassle than a dash mount but much cheaper than buying 10 feet of battery cable and lugs. Also, beats a dead battery. Some day, may try one of the solenoid controlled master disconnect switches.