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- Joined
- Jun 29, 2025
- Messages
- 138
- Points
- 101
- City
- Hendersonville
- State - Country
- TN - USA
- Vehicle Year
- 2019
- Vehicle
- Ford Ranger
- Drive
- 4WD
- Engine
- 2.3 EcoBoost
- Transmission
- Automatic
- Total Lift
- 3
- Total Drop
- 0
- Tire Size
- 285/75R17
As we all know there is not a lot of room to mount things in the engine bay. I installed an Auxbeam 8 gang accessory control switch. This could be done with just about any accessory control switch brand. Just as an aside, (I bought this myself) the Auxbeam control switch is very good quality, at least initial quality. It feels good. Time will tell if it is any good over time.
This is the initial mockup.
It’s hard to see, but I drilled a hole through the firewall large enough to pass the switch control cable between the switch and the control box. You can get at it from inside the drivers footwell, to the left of the break pedal.
You can easily remove the driver AC vent and pass the cable next to the radio and ultimately through the back of the change tray on the dash.
Close up initial mockup.
I fabricated an attachment foot out of square tube with punched holes. It is attached to an already existing treaded mounting point under the overflow reservoir. I put a nylon washer sandwiched between 2 rubber washers under the foot for some vibration mitigation. A piece of all thread is used between the foot and the control box mount.
The mount plate shown came with the switch control box. It is attached through an existing hole in the drip edge just below the hood seal.
The 60 amp circuit breaker that came with control box was mounted to the top of the fuse box cover.
I custom built the power wire from the battery to the control box. It is run along the drip edge just below the hood seal in a wire loom.
There is a good grounding point right next the control box. At this point I connect everything up and tested. If I have a gripe with the Auxbeam control box kit is the power wires that come with it are substandard. It comes with an 8 gauge wires. I installed 4 gauge wire. Better safe than sorry. If you have a questions feel free to reach out. DM or post the question here.
This is the initial mockup.
It’s hard to see, but I drilled a hole through the firewall large enough to pass the switch control cable between the switch and the control box. You can get at it from inside the drivers footwell, to the left of the break pedal.
You can easily remove the driver AC vent and pass the cable next to the radio and ultimately through the back of the change tray on the dash.
Close up initial mockup.
I fabricated an attachment foot out of square tube with punched holes. It is attached to an already existing treaded mounting point under the overflow reservoir. I put a nylon washer sandwiched between 2 rubber washers under the foot for some vibration mitigation. A piece of all thread is used between the foot and the control box mount.
The mount plate shown came with the switch control box. It is attached through an existing hole in the drip edge just below the hood seal.
The 60 amp circuit breaker that came with control box was mounted to the top of the fuse box cover.
I custom built the power wire from the battery to the control box. It is run along the drip edge just below the hood seal in a wire loom.
There is a good grounding point right next the control box. At this point I connect everything up and tested. If I have a gripe with the Auxbeam control box kit is the power wires that come with it are substandard. It comes with an 8 gauge wires. I installed 4 gauge wire. Better safe than sorry. If you have a questions feel free to reach out. DM or post the question here.
