2011 Ranger Brake line

[rover56]

It seems I'm about to experience the joy of bending brake lines for my 2011 Ranger 2 wheel drive with RBAS. I've been told there is a National Back Order on the two lines I need. I have bent two lines from NiCad and I have the tooling needed. I would like to have everything on hand and before,taking everything apart, so I have a few questions for those who tread this path. The two lines come from the "distribution box" (?) inside the driver side federwell and run along the frame rail. Research is telling me the connection to the distribution lines use bubble flares and these can be made with a 45 flaring tool, which I have. It also told me that ford used different size tubing/and or thread differences on the lines, so people could only connect system properly. Has anyone found this to be true? Is the threading SAE or metric? I plan on using rubber caps to quickly block air from entering the system as much as possible, I've learned that running the master dry can result in needing an expensive machine to purge the air, regular bleeding wont work at that point, but I still have fluid, just went to minimum before I caught it. Are these lines 3/16?Anyone have any tips for this adventure? I will try to do good documentation of this repair and post how it goes, maybe it will help others going this way.

 

[sgtsandman]

I only remember one brake line running to the back axle. There is a union in front of the tank and I think another after the tank. The union in the front had a weird size to it on my 1998 and I has to reuse it. The line that runs past the tank is between the tank and the frame rail. So inaccessible unless you drop the tank. The rest of the fittings were pretty standard from what I remember.

I do think the brake line is 3/16. Whatever size it is, it’s the same throughout the whole truck.

 

[Uncle Gump]

There should only be one line to the rear... at least my 06 with four wheel anti lock does.

I believe the lines are the same size but the fittings are uncommon. I usually just use side cutters and snip the line at the fitting. Remove it then clamp the fitting in a vice... use some penetrating oil... a bit of heat and a punch and knock the line out of the fitting then reuse the fitting on the new line.

Before I bought a bubble flare kit... I had just performed the first step of a double flare ad a bubble flare. I did that hundreds of times on dune buggy brakes. I did eventually buy a bubble flare tool and it makes cleaner bubbles.

The NiCopp line is much easier to flare. At least they say it is. I've yet to use it.

 

[rover56]

There should only be one line to the rear... at least my 06 with four wheel anti lock does.

I believe the lines are the same size but the fittings are uncommon. I usually just use side cutters and snip the line at the fitting. Remove it then clamp the fitting in a vice... use some penetrating oil... a bit of heat and a punch and knock the line out of the fitting then reuse the fitting on the new line.

Before I bought a bubble flare kit... I had just performed the first step of a double flare ad a bubble flare. I did that hundreds of times on dune buggy brakes. I did eventually buy a bubble flare tool and it makes cleaner bubbles.

The NiCopp line is much easier to flare. At least they say it is. I've yet to use it.

Good idea on reusing the fitting, I'll give that a try. Planning on using the first step of a double flair as you say. I haven't traced each line to where it goes yet, but I'll post a better picture of the lines and their connection along the frame rail. Not sure if these lines are OEM,replaced with aftermarket parts during its ressurection, or combo deal. I need to find a better manual than Haynes 1993-2011 for this year Ranger. Appreciate everyones help.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I recommend doing a test flare as you said... then check your results.

I would still recommend just buying the right tool. You may even get one on loan from the parts store. Just be careful... it is your brakes after all.

 

[pjtoledo]

2011 with stability control has separate lines to each wheel.
do you have 1 line (RABS) or 2 (RSC) at the rear axle?
the fittings are odd/different sizes, bubble flares
the lines at the distribution box have flex sections, they bridge from the fender mounted box to the frame and need to flex.

there should be unions on the frame near the fuel filter, the dist box lines don't go all the way back to the axle.

personally, if those lines are not corroded or leaking I would not replace them.

didn't have any problem bleeding when I replaced those lines on my 2000.

 

[rover56]

2011 with stability control has separate lines to each wheel.
do you have 1 line (RABS) or 2 (RSC) at the rear axle?
the fittings are odd/different sizes, bubble flares
the lines at the distribution box have flex sections, they bridge from the fender mounted box to the frame and need to flex.

there should be unions on the frame near the fuel filter, the dist box lines don't go all the way back to the axle.

personally, if those lines are not corroded or leaking I would not replace them.

didn't have any problem bleeding when I replaced those lines on my 2000.

I've been unable to get under and trace the lines due to minor basal cell surgery on my back, but healing up and hope to take some good photos of what I have this weekend, but there is one flexible braided hose section that is leaking. Thats my whole problem. There is a union along the frame, as you say. The braided section is very small diamater (3/16?). I will mike up these lines and get the correct diamater. If that line needs to flex, making a new line from NiCop will be problematic. Maybe put a loop or two at that point would give the needed flexibilty? VERY doubtful anyone on this Island has the material and/or tooling to make that small a braided line. Greatly appreciate those who have replied and will provide photos and better info soon

 

[rover56]

Its been a while but heres an update on the situation. Tasca Ford, after much searching, found me a replacement line, however its not the correct line for the port (it goes to another port in the distribution box,which has 4 lines) but is about 1 inch longer and I can make it work by cutting the old line, removing the fittings, put them on the new line and reflaring. Gotta give Tasca credit, they searched everywhere for me and went the extra effort. I have an Eastwood flairing tool that makes bubble and SAE 45 double flares. Both ends of the old line look like double flares,and from what I've been able to research, that's unusual, the disribution box at least would be a bubble flair. Would anyone know if Ford "mixed"the type of flairs in that box, as it seems they did on the threaded ferrules? I don't think I have enough length to flair/install, then do it again if I have a leak. Did a test bubble flair on some niCop and it doesnt match the old lines, so I will go with the double flare if no one has any further input. I will call Tasca and see if they can tell what flairs/fittings are used on 2011 Rangers and post the reply before going further. I want to know the flairing and the fittings threading at each port. Local Ford parts man NEVER any help.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Ford seems to have done some strange things over the years with the brakes. Like some years used 3/16” line but the rear wheel cylinders used a special fitting that converted to 1/4” sized fittings. I’ve bought brass adapter fittings from the parts stores and I’ve got some of the special fittings and I’ve also gone through and sourced wheel cylinders that worked and took a normal 3/16” fitting. They are also a random hodgepodge of 45* double flare and metric bubble.

Used to get really irritated with it all but now I have a case with an assortment of fittings and adapters along with an Eastwood lever style flaring tool and with a coil of Ni-Copp I can do whatever I need to. I’ve also done things like if there’s a stupid union (I’ve seen standard double flare on the ends but bubble at the union and such), I’ll just make it double flare at the union and use an aftermarket double flare union. Of course, once one line goes or I have the truck we’ll tore apart, I just go through and make everything Ni-Copp and call it a day.

For the lines that go down to the frame where the factory lines have that flexible braided, you can make a couple coils of brake line and achieve the same result. Older vehicles used a coil of line, newer ones they use a bit of braided because it takes up less space. I have a bit of 3/4” plastic electrical conduit that I use for wrapping the line around to make coils.

 

[rover56]

Ford seems to have done some strange things over the years with the brakes. Like some years used 3/16” line but the rear wheel cylinders used a special fitting that converted to 1/4” sized fittings. I’ve bought brass adapter fittings from the parts stores and I’ve got some of the special fittings and I’ve also gone through and sourced wheel cylinders that worked and took a normal 3/16” fitting. They are also a random hodgepodge of 45* double flare and metric bubble.

Used to get really irritated with it all but now I have a case with an assortment of fittings and adapters along with an Eastwood lever style flaring tool and with a coil of Ni-Copp I can do whatever I need to. I’ve also done things like if there’s a stupid union (I’ve seen standard double flare on the ends but bubble at the union and such), I’ll just make it double flare at the union and use an aftermarket double flare union. Of course, once one line goes or I have the truck we’ll tore apart, I just go through and make everything Ni-Copp and call it a day.

For the lines that go down to the frame where the factory lines have that flexible braided, you can make a couple coils of brake line and achieve the same result. Older vehicles used a coil of line, newer ones they use a bit of braided because it takes up less space. I have a bit of 3/4” plastic electrical conduit that I use for wrapping the line around to make coils.

Yes, Ford has most definitely had some "independent thinking" in their history. They probably made each port in the distribution box different, so they couldn't be mixed up, or messed with. I have the same Eastwood flairing tool,(love it) and a roll of 3/16 NI-Copp, and was ready to do the coiling for flexibility issue, but since Tasca did get a similar line, I just cut the ends , put the old ferrulles back on and did both ends in double 45 flares. Also used Eastwoods Deburring tool on the original steel line. Removed the powdercoating on the stock lines where they sat in the die. Hooked lines up and no leaks, so on to the bleeding process. Thanks to all who gave their input, first repair I had to do on my Ranger, appreciate this groups help.