2011 ranger 8.8

[rover56]

Working on diagnosing rear noises in my 2011 Ranger 8.8, and even the simple things are a tedious task due to RUST, being 5 blocks from the Gulf of America. Removing the differential cover bolts took days of rust penetrant/ 90psi impact gun/heat, more heat/ inferno heat, all applied separately and together. Finally in a crescendo of language seldom heard in my hood, one bolt finally surrendered, then another and eventually victory was mine. Thought I had better make sure I could fill it before removing the cover, good idea. Filler plug is barely visible, has totally rusted into the case and the square head is just a shallow bowl depression, not coming out! I've read all the "tricks" to use, but its not coming out. So I looked for a cover that would incorporate a fill spout, but all are custom, expensive, heavier duty I don't need, can't find one. I can weld a bung onto a stock cover, but how to determine where the fill line would be? Still haven't gotten the cover off yet, need to figure this out first. Possibly try to bring a level "line" front center of old plug (as close as possible) around to cover and mark center there? Close enough? Has anyone else encountered this situation? As I understand these 8.8 rears, the fluid level is critical. Any help appreciated, thanks. Tom

 

[sgtsandman]

There are a few covers with fill and drain holes out there for the 8.8 but none of them are cheap, as you already found out.

Other than customizing an OEM or aftermarket cover, I really don't think what you are looking for is out there.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Weld a washer on the plug. Decent sized, weld the inside of the hole to the plug.

Weld a decent sized nut on the washer. Save the hex to use in battle.

Find at tool that fits the nut. Get rowdy, do what feels natural. Righty tighty lefty loosy.

If it breaks reweld and repeat.

The heat cycles from welding on the plug will help it work loose more than any kind of special penetrating oil.

If you have a torch apply heat to the housing around the plug, not so much to the plug itself.

Try to find a brass plug when you go back together.

I doubt you have the port anymore but on a older axle with the VSS in the rear diff you could measure the fluid it takes and put it in via the VSS hole on the top of the diff. A 2011 with stability control has wheel speed sensors at each wheel IIRC.

You could also weld a bushing on a stock steel diff cover and still install the prescribed amount of fluid, you just wouldn't be able to check the level.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So, on my one 8.8”, I welded a flange nut on the inside of the rear cover and put an appropriate bolt and sealing washer (I actually got those first from the “help” section of the parts store for oil pan drain plugs and found a flange nut at the hardware store to fit). Then it’s just a matter of measuring and installing the correct amount of oil. I didn’t measure where I put the plug, just high and out of the way.

On my dad’s one Ranger, I had already installed the cover when I found I couldn’t get the fill plug out. I tried using a torch to heat things but ended up rounding out the plug. Then I tried welding a junk 1/2” grade 8 bolt in the plug and putting a socket on it. Sucker came out then. I cleaned it all up and did a better job of welding the bolt in and put it back in like that.