2011 Ranger 2wd Sport 4.0

[TallCanadian]

It all started when I decide to replace my brakes and rotors. I was getting a shake when I braked. However, when I took the wheels off, I was missing a caliper bolt on the driver side. So everytime I braked, the caliper had play in it. I last had this truck in the garage in November to replace a ball joint. I only drove it a short time after that.

Anyway:

I replaced the front brake pads and rotors on my truck. Not my first time but now I'm having more issues than I can take. First thing that happened was the abs light and traction light came on. I tried to accelerate and the traction grinding noise is happening, then when I brake the anti lock grinding is happening. I pulled the wheels again and checked and cleaned the sensors. I check the rotors and everything looks normal. Put it all back together and try again, much of the same symptons. I take the wheels and check the sliders. The pins with the rubber pieces on them seem locked into the holes. I eventually get them out and pick up to pin kits and replace the pins and bolts. Put everything back together, same issues. Take the wheels off again, driver side brakes are hot and I can't turn them by hand. Calipers??. I put a clamp on and the cups slide back very easily.

I don't know where to go next. Could it possibly be calipers? they slide back into place so easily.

 

[Denisefwd93]

It all started when I decide to replace my brakes and rotors. I was getting a shake when I braked. However, when I took the wheels off, I was missing a caliper bolt on the driver side. So everytime I braked, the caliper had play in it. I last had this truck in the garage in November to replace a ball joint. I only drove it a short time after that.

Anyway:

I replaced the front brake pads and rotors on my truck. Not my first time but now I'm having more issues than I can take. First thing that happened was the abs light and traction light came on. I tried to accelerate and the traction grinding noise is happening, then when I brake the anti lock grinding is happening. I pulled the wheels again and checked and cleaned the sensors. I check the rotors and everything looks normal. Put it all back together and try again, much of the same symptons. I take the wheels and check the sliders. The pins with the rubber pieces on them seem locked into the holes. I eventually get them out and pick up to pin kits and replace the pins and bolts. Put everything back together, same issues. Take the wheels off again, driver side brakes are hot and I can't turn them by hand. Calipers??. I put a clamp on and the cups slide back very easily.

I don't know where to go next. Could it possibly be calipers? they slide back into place so easily.

I'm guessing bad brake hoses, I had one one my truck, I had on my other truck, and two on my car,.

they collapse on the inside but look perfectly normal on the outside. What makes it even more confusing, is when the brakes cool off and sit a few hours, they relax, but when you start driving they clamp up tight again.

 

[TallCanadian]

It’s possible, but it seems to be both wheels. I can’t see them collapsing that quick. I’m still thinking pins are messing me up. They are new and the seem to be freed up until I go for a small drive, only a few yards. I bring it back into the garage, pull the wheels and Calipers. The pin with that small rubber on the end of it seems like it’s locked in place. I have a very hard time getting it out. It’s like it’s vapour locked.

 

[Denisefwd93]

You have 4 wheel or 2 wheel ABS?
2 wheel ABS is called rabs.

Far as I know there are only two causes of calipers not releasing, a bad caliper or a bad hose but there is a possible third, it could be the rabs valve if you have one I don't think you do.


good luck

 

[Bgunner]

Pull the codes from the ABS. I it is possible you might find you have a bad wheel speed sensor. This can cause the ABS pump to work every time you hit the breaks. IF the sensor is giving the ABS control module the proper signal it could cause the valve in the ABS pump to lock into position causing the fluid to not be released.

This is just a guess and suggestion. As for the traction control, I got out of the mechanic business before this option hit major popularity I could be wrong, it should use the same wheel speed sensor to tell if the wheels are spinning at close to the same speed. If a sensor is bad there will be a discrepancy in the signals causing the traction control to trigger while on the throttle.

As an after thought here on the traction control, and I remind you that I got out of the business before it was popular feature so I was never trained on it, There may be codes to pull there too. Can't hurt to look into it as it may help the diagnosis process.

 

[adsm08]

You ABS codes will be missing/invalid signal from one or both front wheel speed sensors.

You traction control codes will be missing/invalid data from ABS module.

Did the parts store ask if you had ABS or not before giving you rotors?

Did you make sure that your new rotors had tone rings on them before installing them?

 

[TallCanadian]

Thanks everyone for your replies. My truck is parked on my garage so i have access to get codes read. A simple brake job has turned into a nightmare. I had none of these symptoms before I replaced the rotors and pads.

I should note that the abs light isn’t on anymore, either is the traction control light. I do have the proper rotors, they have the rings on them. I made sure of that when I bought them.

Also, my Caliper pins (2) with the little rubbers on the tops and seizing that pin. Top pin on the driver side and bottom pin on the passenger side. And now today, I can’t get those pins to even slide back in the holes. The rubbers keep sliding over the raised part of the pin. I will have track down these little rubber pieces.

 

[Bgunner]

If you can wait for them to be shipped, Rockauto.com should have what you need without having to purchase other unnecessary parts like the bolts and so on as many times these rubbers come in a kit from part stores. Looking forward to an update on what codes you get and the progress you have made.

EDIT: Some ABS systems wipe codes every time the ignition switch is turned to the off position. This results in the lights not being on when you first start the vehicle but come on when you hit the breaks after going 1.2-4 MPH. I'm hoping yours isn't this way but if it is you may have to move the vehicle to trigger the fault code then check with out shutting the vehicle off. Just a heads up is all.

 

[TallCanadian]

My calipers are dual piston. I believe you are right. Replace everything and be done with it. This is the third brake change for the front over the years. I’ve had these apart so many times over the last week and a half, I swear I can do them blindfolded. I guess I can put a meter on the sensors and see which is bad. I did paint my backing plate but was very careful in not getting paint on the sensors. But... my luck.

 

[TallCanadian]

So it’s been a couple of weeks since I’ve worked on my truck. Mostly due to frustration, but work keeps me busy. I replaced both calipers and now the brakes are no longer locking up and causing traction control issues. My new challenge is the anti lock brake working when I press the brake pedal. I have no abs light on. But I get that pulsating pedal and that grinding sound. I’ve been doing some research and watching videos, etc. This is what I have done. Check abs fuse. Fuse is okay. Unplugged both sensors and checked ohms and voltage on both sensors by spinning the wheels. I get nothing on either sensor. I’ve taken the brakes, rotors all off again and cleaned sensors. I’m really at a loss here and need your help. Could both sensors have gone bad since I replaced all the brake parts? It doesn’t make sense. And yes, both rotors have the rings in them. And I checked the part numbers to make sure I received the right rotors.