2006 Ford ranger sport

[justins81213]

I have the 5r44e transmission and it has a hard shift from 2-3. It revved up to almost 3k before finally going and when it does it's hard and twice now it has triggered my od off light. It was below freezing on both times. Got code pulled and it is gear 3 ratio. Are there any common problems with this in this tranny? Any advice would be appreciated. I don't know much on transmissions but am very mechanically inclined with engines and other things so I'm kind of stumped

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Google: 5r55e 2-3 flare


Just FYI, the 4R44E, 4R55E, 5R44E, and 5R55E are the same transmission diagnostic-wise and parts-wise for the most part

4R was a 4-speed
5R was a 4-speed but used computer software to add a Faux 2nd gear, i.e. 1st with OD on was new 2nd, so it is listed as a 5-speed and is

44E was used on 4cyl and 3.0l V6 engines
55E was using on 4.0l engines, larger OD drum was only difference I think

A4LD was the original OD 4-speed in this line, 1985/6 to 1994, then it got full solenoid shift control in 1995 so was renamed 4R, then new software in the computer in 1997 and renamed 5R

So when you order a part it may say it fits, A4LD, 4R44E, 4R55E, 5R44E, and 5R55E, and depending on the part that would be correct

 

[Dirtman]

Almost all issues with the 4r44/55e 5r44/55e (like ron said there are a ton of names for essentially the same trans) are valve body related. Good news being that this means you don't need a full rebuild or need to remove the trans. Bad news narrowing down the specific issue in the valve body is a royal pain sometimes.

First check the fluid and filter. when was it last serviced? If its been a while or the fluid is gross cleaning it out can be a simple fix. The 5r44e's (thats what's in your truck so thats what I'm calling it from now on!) can be extremely sensitive to dirty fluid.

Second would be to test the EPC solenoid. Though they are not easy to accurately test so you may just need to do the cardinal sin of auto repair and just replace it without confirming.

Thirdly is doing a complete valve body rebuild or replacement with a shift correction kit. If you're brave enough you can do it yourself for around $150. Its not overly complex and no special tools needed but very tedious with many small parts (think fixing a clock) Or buy a reman VB for $300-500 depending on who or where you get it from.

Random useless fact on the 4r44e its a 1-2 shift flare, on the 5r44e its mistakenly called a 2-3 shift flare. As ron mentioned the 5r series have a fake second gear BUT its hardly ever actually engaged. 90% of the time you are shifting from 1 directly to 3. (Same as 1 to 2 on the 4r series). The fake second is only engaged under specific situations like full throttle acceleration, or heavy load down shifts. Confused yet?

 

[justins81213]

Lol yes a little I'm pretty sure I can replace the valve body myself, I can overhaul an engine so that shouldn't be a problem but don't they come pre assembled if you order one? I've also been doing a lot of research and most have pointed to the valve body or valve body gasket so I think your right as far as the solenoids you definitely lost me. As far as the shifting I think I understood your saying it only uses that second gear if I accelerate quickly which I really don't ever do I'm pretty easy on my truck. Lastly how can I identify exactly what transmission I have? I've looked it up and one sir will tell me the 55e and another will tell me 44e it's kind of confusing and it even does it when I get quotes online for reman. Thank you for your advice as I was really dreading having to drop it off replace it.

 

[Dirtman]

Lol yes a little I'm pretty sure I can replace the valve body myself, I can overhaul an engine so that shouldn't be a problem but don't they come pre assembled if you order one? I've also been doing a lot of research and most have pointed to the valve body or valve body gasket so I think your right as far as the solenoids you definitely lost me. As far as the shifting I think I understood your saying it only uses that second gear if I accelerate quickly which I really don't ever do I'm pretty easy on my truck. Lastly how can I identify exactly what transmission I have? I've looked it up and one sir will tell me the 55e and another will tell me 44e it's kind of confusing and it even does it when I get quotes online for reman. Thank you for your advice as I was really dreading having to drop it off replace it.

If you buy a rebuilt valve body it will come ready to install. pretty much unbolt the old and slap on the new. Some come with new solenoids some without. If your going that route get one with new solenoids. These transmissions are electronically controlled by a series of solenoids attached to the valve body. (Which can fail, especially the EPC electronic pressure control solenoid). Also make sure you get a 1 piece BONDED separator plate & gasket! Do not re-use the old gasket or use the 3 piece separator plate & gasket set!

You can just buy the parts and rebuild your old valve body yourself cheaper though. More work and time but you'll save. I can give you a list of parts you'll need if you want. I also have a pdf copy of the shop manual if you want it.

You have a 5r44e. The 5r55e was only used in the 4.0 trucks. But it DOES NOT matter. They are identical except for the 5r55e has a slightly thicker overdrive drum. The 4r44e, 4r55e, 5r44e, and 5r55e all use the exact same valve body and 99% same internal components. That overdrive drum is it. The difference between the 4r series and 5r is literally just the computer software that makes the goofy fake second gear on the 5r series. Alot of websites just generically call them all the 5r55e...

 

[Transman304]

The differences between 5R55E and 5R44E are simply the the number of pinions in the forward and rear planets. Forward can have 4 or 6 pinions some really early will have 3. The rear planets will have 3 or 6 pinions. Also the output shaft on the 55E has no provision for lube holes and uses a sun gear with no bushings where as the 44E has the lubrication holes and bushings in sun gear. No diffrent OD drums. Hope this helps clear up the differences in the units. As far as the original question the above answers cover a lot of the issues described. I would add to get the codes read and see if it has engine braking in manual low/1 gear.

 

[justins81213]

@ transman I have got the code pulled and it comes up with gear 3 ratio.

@ dirtman yes I would like a list of parts and shop manual please and thanks

To anyone who has posted and given me advice, thank you it is greatly appreciated! I can tear down engines and overhaul then but know nothing about transmissions. I think I'm gonna go ahead and rebuild or replace valve body and go from there hopefully this will do it!

 

[RonD]

Get a new separator plate with bonded gasket

Also look at Shift kits, most like this addition when doing valve body work on these transmissions

 

[wpginterceptor]

Does it only do it occasionally then after a short drive its fine again... apparently this is ok. Mine does it when cold out and usually first to second shift... sometimes the OD light will flash but then shifts fine, and when you restart the truck the light is off... APPARENTLY this is normal! my older ranger never did this but my 2006 does occasionally, again when its cold out!! A ford tech told me wouldnt worry about it.. had the truck 3 years now and no issues other than that.. again only when cold out! I did change my fluid and filter and tightenend the valve bvody and it still does it when cold soo..

 

[pjtoledo]

friendly FYI, the above members haven't been on the forum for quite some time.

a few years ago I replaced the gasket/separator on my 2000 to fix the flare issue. that's my limit with auto trannys.

 

[wpginterceptor]

yah iI figured, but also responded to future searches/ answers!

 

[pjtoledo]

if you hover over the users image some stats pop up. last seen is one of them.