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2004+ keyless entry w/ flasher confirmation on the cheap cheap


Hesstopher

Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
20
City
S. Texas
Vehicle Year
2006
Transmission
Manual
sticky request (I know, pride)

I didn't see one of these on here and this was an afternoon project for me (first keyless entry system also).

Skill Level: Easy/Moderate
Tools:
- Cordless drill w/ bit (check screws for size)
- metal saw (hack saw worked for me)
- torx screwdriver
- Phillips screwdriver
- Flat screwdriver
- wire cutter/stripper
- electrical tape
- voltmeter (just to be safe and check things)

I installed this,
http://www.jcwhitney.com/remote-control-power-door-lock-system/p2001411.jcwx?filterid=c490j1
on my 2006 Ford Ranger, should be the same until Ford changes the electronics.

it is $79.99 + shipping, everything you need for two door job, but the model will power four. door actuators can be purchased cheap (like $3-4) here:
http://www.amazon.com/GALAXY-AC-1-Door-Lock-Actuator/dp/B0014KQ6BW/?tag=959media-20

NOTE: Do this at your own risk... I am pulling together my gathered knowledge of Ford Rangers I gained during my own research for this project. I am in no way responsible for any damage you do to your own truck/car by following this. It worked for me, that is all I know. Please do not consider me an authoritative source on this. That being said: PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Remove your door panels with a phillips and torx screw driver.
two phillips screws: 1 in door handle the other to the bottom outter edge of the door
Use your finger, knife or flat screw driver to gently pop the cover off the window crank and expose the shaft for the torx screw, unscrew it and remove the crank and plastic washer BE CAREFUL NOT TO LOSE THE SCREWS! I put all phillips in a cup holder and reattached the window cranks when the panel was removed.

The panel is held with gravity clips, grab from the bottom of the panel pushing in slightly and upward should release the door panel. There is a insulation/padding that is glued to the door, gently remove it. Be careful, if it starts to tear try working from another angle to prevent further tearing.

Now the door is exposed :icon_surprised: yeah not that way.

This is how I ran my wires, however you do it: watch for pinch points and secure with zip ties. I STRONGLY recommend running the wires through the weather boot between the door and the body; it will take a little longer but if you use a coat hanger or electrician's fish line you can do it and it looks way better, not to mention is much safer electronically. I found it was easier to pull the wires from the door to the body using a coat hanger. You can spot the rubber holes with a flash light to get the hanger started and squeeze the boot to check progress and even bend and guide the hanger into the door. When it is in, tape your wires to the end and pull the hanger back into the cab-- presto, you know have your wires run as Ford OEM has them.
picture.php


Next you mount the actuators.

I saw another diy that suggest mounting them below the window frame bold at the bottom of the door (below the lower square hole) but I mounted much higher given the bending of the existing rod and the keyless rod (just below the higher square hole).
picture.php

picture.php

both of these are mockups, I used the brass rod from the other door to temporarily secure it so I can measure the brass rod to cut it, bolt the brass rod to the oem rod using the square bracket and check for functionality (VERY IMPORTANT). Once it was all said and done, the screw was the last thing I did to the actuator.

I ran the wires using the coat hanger through the dash where ever they wouldn't show or be chewed on by something. I housed the modules (two in my kit, a main and a secondary) to the right of my glove box, nice little pocket there.
picture.php

This was a mockup, to the back of that hole there is a smaller area which the smaller of the two modules fit in nicely. The lager sits to the front and the wires are tucked into there; as before, be careful of pinch points-- the glovebox does move.
picture.php


Follow the wiring diagram and you are golden. I used wirenuts and electrical tape (how I was raised) use whatever is secure for you. The previous owner had done some wiring and was nice enough to leave a wire that plugs into the fuse box. I tapped into that for all my power for this installation, it is the port for the on dash power outlet to the right of the radio.

BONUS! I saw similar modules that offered flasher confirmation, so I wondered if mine did. After some checking with a volt meter and reading how they installed it, I gave it a shot... and it works!

If you have the same kit as me there is a white wire off the main module listed as "DO NOT USE" this is the flasher positive for the keyless system. BE CAREFUL AS THE WHITE FROM THE SECONDARY RELAY IS A GROUND WHICH MUST BE HOOKED UP TO A GROUNDING POINT FOR PROPER FUNCTION. This white wire is in a group of 3 wires: white, black, and red-- again, this is from the MAIN module.

This is the Smart Junction Box (SJB) Ford began using in 2004 and continues to use.
picture.php


To access parking lamps (and dash lights, sry) you need to remove the brown block by pulling upward on the white tab in the center, this will push the block away from the box. You don't have to remove the black cover but should you decide to, flip the block over and toward the wire end there is a small clip, use a flat head screw driver to push it closed and the cover easily comes off. NOTE: The cover keeps the wires out of the way of the white locking handle, be careful when installing without the cover even to check functionality as the wires can easily be pinched.

To tie the module's white wire in there are a few options, but not much brown wire. So I opted for an inline splice.
picture.php


expose the brown wire's copper insides and divide them into two groups. remove the white wire's coating on the end and divide the interior copper wires into two groups. Feed one of white wire groups between the brown at the end of the exposed section and twist both white groups around the brown tightly across the brown's exposed section. I tested my functionality here which added some time but was well worth it. Tightly secure with electrical tape and replace all wires as they were.

If you did it right, locking should give you a single flash, unlock gives you 2 flashes and holds the lights for about 20 seconds.

My next mod will be keyless tailgate locks running off this system-- when the doors are lock, the tailgate cannot be lowered/opened/removed. Simply hitting unlock on the remove disables the lock and the tailgate functions normally. Hopefully I'll get to it next weekend; I'll post a new album and a walkthrough for it.

TO THE MODERATORS: I believe this is the proper area for this mod, if not please let me know so we can move it and I know for future reference.
 
i did this a bout 4 months ago... but it looks good dude. i love it best 80 bucks i ever spent, i have the same kit. heres how i did mine... clicky
 
Nice install; I was noticing the extreme similarities in our trucks (same color, interior scheme, etc) but the small things, screw points, wiring, fuses, etc. Interesting what you notice different once you looked behind things.

Have you thought about using the lock actuators to secure the tailgate when the doors are locked? That is my next mod, waiting on the actuators to arrive from amazon.

I grew up in Gulfport and my folks live in Laurel-- what part of MS you live in?
 
i live in southaven, all the way at the top about two seconds from the state line of ms and tn lol

i dont have a lock on the tailgate, but if i did i would certainly find a way to make it lock with the doors.
and the rangers are pretty much the same vehicle all the way through with a few minor changes through out the years.
 
Did you solder your connections?
 
i didnt there was no need to, from the control module to the acutators they had wire connectors, and when i spilced mine into the the fuse block i used a wire crimper so they arent coming undone.
 
I used wirenuts, all the way (except for the flasher hookup but that was because of the lack of room and wire to work with.

I pass through by your town when I go see my grandparents in IL, yeah your basically a suburb of Memphis up there ;)
 

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