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2003 Ranger 1 Scan 5 Codes


aquajock

Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Messages
5
Vehicle Year
2003
Transmission
Manual
My Ranger has a V6 3.0L EFI. It the last few weeks the idle has become rougher. When I was in fast food drive thru the check engine light came on but was blinking then became solid. The next day it has disappeared. Tonight driving home I found that it was losing power as a tried to accelerator it seemed as if it was not going anywhere. Again the check engine light came on and was blinking, after I let the engine cool awhile it is now solid.

When I checked the codes I got the following P0306, P0175, P0300, P0304, P0305, P0171, and P0316. It is seems like it could be fuel related clogged fuel filter, injectors or air flow problems. I recently changed the air filter and not to long ago changed the spark plugs.

Well this weekend I attempted to hunt down the problem without much luck.

- replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor with one from Pep Boys made by Wells (SU4101) that didn't change much it seemed to have a little more power but the codes remained.
- I also replaced all the spark plugs and wires with Autolite Double Platinum Plugs (APP 104) and BWD Select Professional Wires (CH86754)
- Cleaned the MAF sensor
- Checked Air Filter still almost new
- Replaced the fuel filter with a Purolator brand one (F55523) from Pep Boys
- Replaced the Upstream (Bosch 13117) and Downstream (Bosch 15716) O2 sensors
- I checked the compression on each of the cylinders and got

Cyc 1st 2nd
1 135 150
2 130 135
3 150 150
4 125 130
5 135 130
6 125 120


- Removed and inspected the Camshaft Position Sensor. I had read the posts here regarding it and visually it looked fine I didn't see anything the struck me as wrong. Is the best bed to just replace it?
I am still receiving the codes P0306, P0300, P0304, P0305, and P0316

Any recommendations on where to go on troubleshooting this.
 
Coilpack would be next guess.

You are not alone.....http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2651


Book says: Ignition system, Fuel Injectors, Running out of fuel, EVAP cannister Purge Valve, Fuel Pressure, Evaporative Emmission System, Base Engine.

P0171: vaccum leak, check fuel pressure, leaking or contaminated fuel injectors, leaking fuel pressure regulator, low fuel pressure or running out of fuel, vapor recovery system, induction system: air leak after the MAF,vaccum leak, PCV system, improperly seated oil dipstick, EGR system: leaking gasket, stuck EGR valve, leaking diaphragm or EVR, oil overfill, cam timing, cylinder compression, exhaust leaks before or near the O2 sensors.



Long list, but many are easy enough to inspect, like PCV (pretty common).
 
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If you find some immediate problem like the coil, great....but those cylinder pressure variations are kinda big. Looks like she has some miles on her.
 
When I bought my '02 Ranger with 112,000 mi I had the same Ignition codes, and a miss at idle and cruse. Turnd out to be a bad coil pack. And as seeing how an '03 dosnt have an EGR system ruels that out. But still it cost nothing to look for a vac leak so cheack that out first.
 
I have access to a program that is used by technicians across the country. there are 3 cases of the same codes in a ranger. they all are the same thing. valves are sticking due to carbon build-up. they ran a carbon cleaner through the engine, like seafoam, and be sure to get out all the carbon. clear the codes and let us know what happens after that.
 
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I have replaced the coil unit with a motorcraft one and gave it a seafoam treatment with no difference
 
you leave the seafoam soak overnight? i forgot to mention that. put it in your oil and intake and let the truck sit over night. see if that makes any difference.
 
if you scroll down to the bottom of this thread they seem to be having the same issue as you. i will keep an eye on it but thought you might want to as well. i hope we can get your problem fixed.
 
I only gave it the 5 minute treatment recommended on the can
 
I took my truck to the Dealer today and just got a call that I have low compression in #6 and that it is a problem in my valve train. From this they say that I need a new engine because I have a 120,000 miles on the truck. They don't recommend just fixing the head.
 
Based or your readings there was about a 16% difference between the highest and lowest, and that's pushing it.....so I wouldn't immediately say the shop was BS'ing you.


If you're not willing to change the engine yourself, price several good shops, and find out what brand the rebuild engines they offer are. I know the local Ford shop was willing to source non-oem parts I was having them install. This of course assumes you're not just going to get rid of the truck.
 

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