Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and - Joined
- Dec 25, 2025
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- 2
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- 1
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- Chattanooga
- State - Country
- TN - USA
- Other
- 2003 Ford Ranger
- Vehicle Year
- 2003
- Vehicle
- Ford Ranger
- Drive
- 2WD
- Engine
- 2.3 (4 Cylinder)
- Transmission
- Automatic
Hello All, I'm new to the forum and trying to help out my Father in law.
His driver side power window would only move down if one touched the up button, and then press down the window would automatically go down. After fully down, it would never go back up after pressing the up button, but a buzzing noise under the drivers feet. I did some research and figured it could be the GEM module. The passenger side window does move up and down fine from the master switch on the driver side.
I took apart the master switch and checked continuity from ground to the up and down switch, which beeped on each press. Looking inside the switch there was no green crusties or corrosion to indicate a bad switch. I can run jumper wires to the power window motor up and down just by reversing the polarity. It does move fine manually that way. I ensured the ground on the switch is good to a ground near the left driver side foot well.
So i wanted to disable the GEM, and basically loose the auto down feature just to get the switch to command the window up or down. I found on a Taurus forum, where one cut the (down) wire (Tan / light blue ) from the master switch, and cut the orange and white wire going to the motor, and jumper-ed a wire from the (tan / light blue) to the Orange and white with success.
The site can be found Here (It is a forum regarding 2003 Ford Taurus Power windows)
Well, I gave this a shot. I know I can butt splice the wires back to where they were originally, but was curious on if I could bypass the GEM and help my Father in law. The result was nothing. The buzzing under the dash near the drivers feet did stop when the Up button was pressed originally. Has anyone trying to bypass the GEM to get the driver window moving? I did measure 12 Volts when the up or down button is pressed at the switch, BUT 12 volts were not making it to the motor. I know im close to solving this, I figured someone could point out my mistake if any. To clear any confusion, we cut the tan and light blue from the master switch (Down), and cut the Red wire going to the motor
Any insight? I come to you guys as im kicking rocks and wrecking my brain.
His driver side power window would only move down if one touched the up button, and then press down the window would automatically go down. After fully down, it would never go back up after pressing the up button, but a buzzing noise under the drivers feet. I did some research and figured it could be the GEM module. The passenger side window does move up and down fine from the master switch on the driver side.
I took apart the master switch and checked continuity from ground to the up and down switch, which beeped on each press. Looking inside the switch there was no green crusties or corrosion to indicate a bad switch. I can run jumper wires to the power window motor up and down just by reversing the polarity. It does move fine manually that way. I ensured the ground on the switch is good to a ground near the left driver side foot well.
So i wanted to disable the GEM, and basically loose the auto down feature just to get the switch to command the window up or down. I found on a Taurus forum, where one cut the (down) wire (Tan / light blue ) from the master switch, and cut the orange and white wire going to the motor, and jumper-ed a wire from the (tan / light blue) to the Orange and white with success.
The site can be found Here (It is a forum regarding 2003 Ford Taurus Power windows)
Well, I gave this a shot. I know I can butt splice the wires back to where they were originally, but was curious on if I could bypass the GEM and help my Father in law. The result was nothing. The buzzing under the dash near the drivers feet did stop when the Up button was pressed originally. Has anyone trying to bypass the GEM to get the driver window moving? I did measure 12 Volts when the up or down button is pressed at the switch, BUT 12 volts were not making it to the motor. I know im close to solving this, I figured someone could point out my mistake if any. To clear any confusion, we cut the tan and light blue from the master switch (Down), and cut the Red wire going to the motor
Any insight? I come to you guys as im kicking rocks and wrecking my brain.
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