2002 Ranger 3.0 won't start after plug/wire change

[TampaRanger2]

2002 Ranger 3.0 won't start after plug/wire change - After plugs/wire change it drove 2 miles on test drive but sounded and ran horrible. Won't start since that test drive. Sounds as if it is misfiring badly. Plugs/wires were replaced one at a time and double checked firing order. Getting spark and fuel to all cylinders. After searching the internet for answers it seems it may need a camshaft synchronizer because it had the squeal/chirp 2 mths ago and changed a pulley without eliminating the problem.

Can't get the Ranger to the parts store to pull a code since it won't start. Cranks but sounds awful and won't start. Have gone thru to check wires and vaccum lines and all seem intact. I'm a full time student so I don't have $ to throw parts at this truck but I need it running asap to get to school & work.

My question is: does it sound like the synchronizer is my no start problem? Should I pull it and take a look at it first? I ask because what I read was that if the synchronizer failed it would cause drop in oil pressure and the engine to seize; not a no-start situation. I'm poor and desperate right now. ANY help would be appreciated.

Oh, and I quess it was a coincidence that the synchronizer failed when I changed the plug/wires? Seems like a weird coincidence?

 

[Big Jim M]

Yep! Seems weird to me also>

2002 Ranger 3.0 won't start after plug/wire change - After plugs/wire change it drove 2 miles on test drive but sounded and ran horrible. Won't start since that test drive. Sounds as if it is misfiring badly. Plugs/wires were replaced one at a time and double checked firing order. Getting spark and fuel to all cylinders. After searching the internet for answers it seems it may need a camshaft synchronizer because it had the squeal/chirp 2 mths ago and changed a pulley without eliminating the problem.

Can't get the Ranger to the parts store to pull a code since it won't start. Cranks but sounds awful and won't start. Have gone thru to check wires and vaccum lines and all seem intact. I'm a full time student so I don't have $ to throw parts at this truck but I need it running asap to get to school & work.

My question is: does it sound like the synchronizer is my no start problem? Should I pull it and take a look at it first? I ask because what I read was that if the synchronizer failed it would cause drop in oil pressure and the engine to seize; not a no-start situation. I'm poor and desperate right now. ANY help would be appreciated.

Oh, and I quess it was a coincidence that the synchronizer failed when I changed the plug/wires? Seems like a weird coincidence?

By far the most common complaint on this and any other board is "I changed my plugs and wires and now it won't start"!
The Las Vegas odds are 99.99999 to 1 you have the wires wrong! We hear it all the time and come to find out we were right.
Hopefully you put the factory plugs back in there and not some highly advertised plug that may be your problem.
Did you check the GAP in the plugs?
Go back out there and do a one by one check to make sure you have it the way you took it apart.
Big Jim

 

[97RangerXLT]

What Jim said.

First thing to look for if a problem comes up right after you do work on the truck is to double check your work. If it was running fine before, then something you did introduced the problem. After you double check your work and find no issues (plug wire not seated etc...) then undo your work and put the old back on.

I have had horrible luck with after market plug wire sets, I find that it is money well spent to get factory wire sets or at least a set that is close.

"Performance" sets only perform in emptying your wallet...

AJ

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 while sitting in my underwear

 

[TampaRanger2]

That was my first assumption. Tried swapping old wires w/new plugs and new wires with old plugs with no luck. The new plugs are Bosch Platinum +4 w/4 electrodes so you cannot change the gap.
My husband insists that he only had one wire/plug out at the same time. He is a capable mechanic so I do trust him. I tried double checking thru google and came up with different wiring layouts for the 3.0.
Most say (and this is how we have our wires)

1 is at front of the engine
3 4 for coil (mounted to pass side of engine)
2 6
1 5
3 6 for engine
2 5
1 4
VIN number 1FTYR44V42PB34591 (2002 Ranger Tremor 3.0) No XLT indicated

Is this wrong?
Changed the coil today with no luck (money I didn't have to spend)

 

[TampaRanger2]

The truck did made it through a 2 mile test drive after the plug/wire change but ran like crap. Hubby said it sounded to him like a distributor is 180* off except that this engine doesn't have a distributor. Since no one replied with a firing order I googled some more and found a coil wiring diagram that was completely opposite of ours which makes sense if it sounds 180* off. Thought I read somewhere about aftermarket coils having a reverse order so thought we should try it. It started like a champ and runs fine now.

3/4
2/6
1/5

new coil is
5/1
6/2
4/3

If I have time tomorrow I am tempted to put the old coil on with the original firing order just to test the theory of the coil having a reverse order. But it's running now so I probably shouldn't test my luck. Hubby is human and may not want to admit to this most basic blunder. Need to keep the peace at home though.

Glad I trusted my instinct not to run out and buy even more parts. We will be listening more closely for the chirp/squeal problem in the future though and change the synchronizer if needed. Thanks for pointing me back in the direction of my gut instinct cuz that would have indeed been a weird coincidence.

Would be curious if anyone has ever heard of an aftermarket coil in reverse though.

 

[Andy D]

Wow.Never heard of such a thing; I would save all the parts you took off . I use single electrode plugs just like God intended

 

[97RangerXLT]

interesting, I never heard of that on the coil pack either. the first set up that you have listed is how the 4.0 is set too.

Thanks for the update and glad you got it figured out.

AJ

 

[det107]

Thought I read somewhere about aftermarket coils having a reverse order so thought we should try it. It started like a champ and runs fine now.
3/4
2/6
1/5
new coil is
5/1
6/2
4/3
If I have time tomorrow I am tempted to put the old coil on with the original firing order just to test the theory of the coil having a reverse order. But it's running now so I probably shouldn't test my luck. Hubby is human and may not want to admit to this most basic blunder. Need to keep the peace at home though.

I installed new wires according to Haynes manual (had to deal w/impossible to remove spark plug wire clips) & ran terrible. Only then my friend's Alldata showed the correct firing order. Yup, I goofed -

 

[pjtoledo]

The truck did made it through a 2 mile test drive after the plug/wire change but ran like crap. Hubby said it sounded to him like a distributor is 180* off except that this engine doesn't have a distributor. Since no one replied with a firing order I googled some more and found a coil wiring diagram that was completely opposite of ours which makes sense if it sounds 180* off. Thought I read somewhere about aftermarket coils having a reverse order so thought we should try it. It started like a champ and runs fine now.

3/4
2/6
1/5

new coil is
5/1
6/2
4/3

If I have time tomorrow I am tempted to put the old coil on with the original firing order just to test the theory of the coil having a reverse order. But it's running now so I probably shouldn't test my luck. Hubby is human and may not want to admit to this most basic blunder. Need to keep the peace at home though.

Glad I trusted my instinct not to run out and buy even more parts. We will be listening more closely for the chirp/squeal problem in the future though and change the synchronizer if needed. Thanks for pointing me back in the direction of my gut instinct cuz that would have indeed been a weird coincidence.

Would be curious if anyone has ever heard of an aftermarket coil in reverse though.

a synchronizer is basically a distributor with the top/rotor/cap cut off and replaced with a sensor. it is driven by the camshaft just like a distributor, it also drives the oil pump just like a distributor. the shutter window passing thru the sensor signifies the starting point just like a rotor pointing at wire #1.

the dreaded chirp is when the shaft gets gummed up, looses oil and starts to bind up. the extra load on the shaft breaks either the gear or its roll-pin, resulting in the oil pump not being driven, which quickly seizes the engine.
moral of the story: a chirping synchronizer should be promptly attended to.

 

[mctavish]

Hi. I had the same problem with my 2008 Ranger. The problem is some rangers have the coil reversed with the connector on the other side so the plug order in the manual is also reversed.

 

[enjr44]

Hi. I had the same problem with my 2008 Ranger. The problem is some rangers have the coil reversed with the connector on the other side so the plug order in the manual is also reversed.

Is it a different coil (different P/N) or it a different mounting position (turned around)? Of course, if you replaced the wires one by one, who would know?