2002 F250 diesel - discovery and build thread.

[RobbieD]

Nice work.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

All them extra hp's that windmill is going to unlock... stay tuned for the 4R100 overhaul coming up next.

 

[Curious Hound]

All them extra hp's that windmill is going to unlock... stay tuned for the 4R100 overhaul coming up next.

I hope not. I've never rebuilt a transmission. But I'll try it if I have to.

 

[Curious Hound]

All them extra hp's that windmill is going to unlock... stay tuned for the 4R100 overhaul coming up next.

Don't forget. This is part of the project, too.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Don't forget. This is part of the project, too.

View attachment 102396

 

[bobbywalter]

the 4r100 tend to be better....the e4od go through alot of converters....if you swap em out at first sign of issues the trans will make it a long long ways. when they start slipping most people keep running them and then trash the trans.

 

[Curious Hound]

Thought I might get at least half a day to work on the truck today. But no. As soon as I opened the garage door and lifted the hood on the truck, the rain started. Supposed to rain all weekend.

I did ohm out the glow plugs I removed, just out of curiosity to see how many were good. One is a total open circuit, no continuity at all. That is the one that was black when I pulled it. 5 of them read between 10k and around 150k ohms - totally useless. One reads 15ohms -rapidly dying. At 12 volts, that's less than one amp and 9.6watts. Not creating much heat there. One of them reads like brand new - around 0.9ohms, like the new ones I ordered. That almost makes me wonder if it's actually getting power from the relay and working. I'll have to check the circuit pigtails for continuity.

Anyway. With rain all weekend, I guess I should work on Christmas shopping.

 

[Curious Hound]

Well, if it ain't broke yet, just give me time. Broken electrical connector on the exhaust backpressure solenoid valve. $250 valve. It provides oil pressure to close an exhaust flapper at the turbo outlet, to supposedly help the enginecwarm up faster. I livenin South Carolina. It rarely gets "that cold". Fortunately, it's a nearly useless feature that many people delete with no negative effects. So, delete it, we shall. I flushed out the cavity where the valve belongs and reinstalled it. But, before I go further, I want to take positive steps to guarantee that the exhaust flapper stays wide open. "Eric mod" in progress.

 

[Curious Hound]

That is now deleted. I put the valve back in place to keep the oil in. Then, I disconnected the actuator rod for the butterfly valve (flapper) and made a piece of flat stock to hold it in the open position. There was an unused threaded M8 hole in the pedestal just waiting for me to do this.

Turbo is back on the engine.

 

[Curious Hound]

Had about 2 hrs this afternoon and made good use of it. Got both up-pipes installed. Hoping I can install the rest of the exhaust tomorrow morning before going to work. That is the downpipe from turbo to the long run back to the muffler. This is the one that requires removing the transmission crossmember. Threading the pipe up towards the turbo may not be fun. It's a tight squeeze between engine, firewall, transmission, frame, up-pipe, etc.

Still waiting on some little fuel line fitting seals to do a mod with the check valves, and a battery cable end for the last negative terminal connection before I'll be ready to crank it over to purge the cylinders and start filling the high pressure oil lines and put the glow plugs in.

 

[Curious Hound]

I'm 95% finished with all the mechanical stuff. Really thought I would be starting it today. All the exhaust is finished. I replaced some restrictive check valves with open fittings to allow better fuel flow. This seems to be a common mod. Then I turned it over a few times to be sure to purge oil from the cylinders. Installed the glow plugs. Then the wiring harnesses for glow plugs and injectors. Then valve cover gaskets and valve covers. Next was pre-filling the oil passages to the injectors so it won't have to crank so long when I begin starting it. After that, I started putting other stuff back into place, plugging in wiring connectors, etc. I installed my new air filter box/battery tray/ air intake plenum and sat one battery in place. That was it. A long day, for sure.

New pass-thru fitting on the left. Original fuel check valve fitting on the right. One of these on each head. The passenger side fitting is at the back by the firewall. Had to do that without actually seeing it.

The "under valve cover" wiring harness and valve cover gaskets. The harness plugs into the gasket assembly, then the engine wiringbharness plugs into the outside of the gasket assembly. Pretty fancy stuff here.

And this is how it looked when I quit for the day.

 

[Curious Hound]

IT'S ALIVE!!!!

Just took it for a hour long test drive. It's like a whole new truck. I actually hear the turbo now. Acceleration is great. I didn't realize how much of a dog it really was. I'll do the tuner installation this weekend. It really feels good to have this finished. My "new parts pile" has disappeared and all the little magnet dishes full of screws are empty except the one for the passenger side inner fender liner that still needs to go back in. That's the most major engine work I've done on one of my vehicles.

 

[Curious Hound]

I felt more like a mad scientist than a DIY mechanic today. Tuner is installed. I downloaded 13 tunes from "35 mph valet mode" to "+80hp performance" mode. There's even one for security that let's it idle, but as soon as someone pushes the throttle, it dies. Going out for a test ride in a few minutes.

 

[RobbieD]

Is that an old Sears Craftsman socket driver handle in the pic?

 

[Curious Hound]

Is that an old Sears Craftsman socket driver handle in the pic?

Absolutely.