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2002 F250 diesel - discovery and build thread.


sweet. glad its solid.



mpg is a either or. your engine isnt ideal. your compression...not horrible... but not ideal. this engine was seriously abused.




my e350 naked with no roof racks or tools/ladders would get 21-23 steady hiway 65 mph easily on good fuel..

80 mph 16-18 355 gears 235/85/16...e4od. just a beast. could run 14's in the 1/4 empty. for a 1995....i just could not have been happier.


city traffic loaded down for roofing it was 12-16 which is ridiculously awesome.

i would try it stock for a baseline if it will run ok with the mods. just drive it normal...dont try to eek out every mpg... after two or three tanks of your routine driving it will be what it be... then you can tweek from there.


towing...while its supposedly the weakest of its generation....you could never give me a gasser from that era to do the work i do. it absolutely destroys the big blocks....i would just blow by them getting more then double the mpg...its comparable to the godzilla i am driving now....well in power. mpg forget about it. this godzilla has twice the hp....but towing 10 k its not any better on a grade. but at 14k weight the godzilla starts to have the advantage like up on slade or running 470... but my powerstroke never got down to 2 mpg either.....


manually closing the EPV and locking the converter is like a poor mans exhaust brake..... might have been why i was eating converters. lolz
 
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Do they do the winter fuel thing with diesel? If so, that might be part of the problem aside from the extended warm up cycle just because it is cold

Here they switch to a blend, usually good to -20*... your results may vary. I think we are up to four towed in so far this week gelled up.

No idea if SC would switch to a blend or if they would still run straight #2 diesel.

I don't know if it really effects mpg, the blend has less lube for all the giblets in the diesel injection system which is what gels up in cold enviroments.
 
sweet. glad its solid.



mpg is a either or. your engine isnt ideal. your compression...not horrible... but not ideal. this engine was seriously abused.




my e350 naked with no roof racks or tools/ladders would get 21-23 steady hiway 65 mph easily on good fuel..

80 mph 16-18 355 gears 235/85/16...e4od. just a beast. could run 14's in the 1/4 empty. for a 1995....i just could not have been happier.


city traffic loaded down for roofing it was 12-16 which is ridiculously awesome.

i would try it stock for a baseline if it will run ok with the mods. just drive it normal...dont try to eek out every mpg... after two or three tanks of your routine driving it will be what it be... then you can tweek from there.


towing...while its supposedly the weakest of its generation....you could never give me a gasser from that era to do the work i do. it absolutely destroys the big blocks....i would just blow by them getting more then double the mpg...its comparable to the godzilla i am driving now....well in power. mpg forget about it. this godzilla has twice the hp....but towing 10 k its not any better on a grade. but at 14k weight the godzilla starts to have the advantage like up on slade or running 470... but my powerstroke never got down to 2 mpg either.....


manually closing the EPV and locking the converter is like a poor mans exhaust brake..... might have been why i was eating converters. lolz
Thanks, Bobby. I keep forgetting this thing ate dirt and compression is probably not perfect.

I ordered the the regulator to prevent overprsssurizing the MAP sensor. In a few months, I might order the bigger blowoff valve actuator. Then I'll probably be finished with mods. I feel like it's running pretty darn good for 276k miles.
 
This might help prevent me from driving off with the block heater plugged into the extension cord. I'm not always 100% awake when I leave for work in the morning.
20240118_151201.jpg
 
This might help prevent me from driving off with the block heater plugged into the extension cord. I'm not always 100% awake when I leave for work in the morning.
View attachment 104680

I had that problem at first as well until it became a habit. Once in a blue moon, I still forget and come home to the extension cord strung out in the driveway or in front of the house.
 
The people I see that use black heated back the truck to the house, then run the cord up the drivers side and hang it over the mirror.
That way it’s in your way to open the door.
 
Installed my MAP sensor fooler the other day. Will test drive in a few minutes.

Yesterday and today I worked on the dome light circuit. Turns out I was troubleshooting the wrong half of the connector I had disconnected. Once I figured that out, I just decided to bypass all the door switches with a ground jumper. Now I can put bulbs in the fixtures and turn them in and off with the dimmer. Good enough. New LED bulbs on order. One more task knocked out.
 
Installed my MAP sensor fooler the other day. Will test drive in a few minutes.

Yesterday and today I worked on the dome light circuit. Turns out I was troubleshooting the wrong half of the connector I had disconnected. Once I figured that out, I just decided to bypass all the door switches with a ground jumper. Now I can put bulbs in the fixtures and turn them in and off with the dimmer. Good enough. New LED bulbs on order. One more task knocked out.

LED cab lights are so much better than the incandescent ones. You'll like the change.
 
My friend with the '08 F-250 put in the LED's for his dome lights but the light itself would not turn off fully. He had to get the ones with a resistor in them so that they turned off fully. They stayed on but were really dim.

Just something to watch for when you install yours so you don't end up with a dead battery when you may need it most.
 
My friend with the '08 F-250 put in the LED's for his dome lights but the light itself would not turn off fully. He had to get the ones with a resistor in them so that they turned off fully. They stayed on but were really dim.

Just something to watch for when you install yours so you don't end up with a dead battery when you may need it most.
Thank you. Not sure why they would do that. My circuit has 2 relays in series (battery saver and interior lights relay) that should cut power to those lights completely.

I have noticed the lights come on when I turn the engine off, for some reason. If I turn the dimmer switch to the on position and back off, they turn off. I haven't left them long enough to make sure the battery saver turns them off.

I've been seeing some things that make me suspicious of the microprocessor in the gauge cluster. I may need to replace the cluster soon.
 
Thank you. Not sure why they would do that. My circuit has 2 relays in series (battery saver and interior lights relay) that should cut power to those lights completely.

I have noticed the lights come on when I turn the engine off, for some reason. If I turn the dimmer switch to the on position and back off, they turn off. I haven't left them long enough to make sure the battery saver turns them off.

I've been seeing some things that make me suspicious of the microprocessor in the gauge cluster. I may need to replace the cluster soon.

The F250 Super Crew we now have at work is like that too. The dome light will come on when the engine is shutoff but won't come on when you open the door. You have to turn them on with the dimmer switch if you want to see. The dome lights will turn off by themselves after a short period of time. Yours should do the same, I guess.
 
The F250 Super Crew we now have at work is like that too. The dome light will come on when the engine is shutoff but won't come on when you open the door. You have to turn them on with the dimmer switch if you want to see. The dome lights will turn off by themselves after a short period of time. Yours should do the same, I guess.
Thank you for confirmation. I just never saw it work properly. So I don't know what normal should be.
 
The F250 Super Crew we now have at work is like that too. The dome light will come on when the engine is shutoff but won't come on when you open the door. You have to turn them on with the dimmer switch if you want to see. The dome lights will turn off by themselves after a short period of time. Yours should do the same, I guess.
Thank you for confirmation. I just never saw it work properly. So I don't know what normal should be.

That’s not normal.
The interior lights should come on when any door is opened. They should also come on when the engine is shut off or you use the dimmer switch.
 
That’s not normal.
The interior lights should come on when any door is opened. They should also come on when the engine is shut off or you use the dimmer switch.
It's normal for mine now that I bypassed the door switches.
 

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