2001 Mazda B3000 Fuel Pump Connectors

[P3x]

Had a fuel leak running down the frame by the fuel pump. Found a tube - the largest (OD Approx.575.0”) had a bend with a pin hole leak. Replaced the pump several years ago with an Airtex. Purchased the Dorman Fitting Tool and replaced several fuel lines/connectors that looked rough while I had the bed removed.

The leaking line routes from the largest fitting/port on the Fuel Pump (Approx. 630.0" OD) to a Y Connector on the left frame rail. From the Y, it looks like one line runs Aft to the Evap Module(?) with the other running forward to the Fuel Filter.

I've been searching online, local Parts Stores, etc. trying to get a PN for a replacement Quick Disconnect fitting and a section of replacement tubing with no luck. The only lines connectors referenced for B3000 and Rangers are 5/16 and 3/8. Contacted Dorman to see if they had any info available and the Rep said they do not.

The current Quick Disconnect Fitting does not look bad after removing the damaged portion of nylon line from it. Am thinking to use rubber Fuel hose to connect to the pump and a barbed fitting to connect to the Y . Would like to keep the truck as original as possible and figured I'd post to ask a knowledgeable person what the deal is with this line before modifying it.

Would appreciate if one familiar with this line can educate me on this Fuel Line and shed some

 

[pjtoledo]

that is not a liquid fuel line. it's vapor recovery & emissions line.

 

[P3x]

Is there any fuel in this line when you turn the key to On and the pump starts up? With the leak spraying fuel it's difficult to determine which line is the problem when you're a one man band.
Since the pump activates when the key is placed in the On position, I positioned the battery by the rear cab and used a set of jumper cables so I could see where the leak was coming from. when the the pump activated. Look like it was coming from this line as it had a kink/bend and had a pin hole.

But, that's good news since I have the Dorman tool and 5/16 and 3/8 repair kits. Just need to determine which line is the offender.

You got to love working on older vehicles. I washed the truck and prepped the bed to paint it with POR Bedliner. The carpet always bugged me as the previous owner must have been a smoker/toker since it had numerous burn holes. So I ordered a replacement and gutted the interior. Then I see it pissing fuel.

Thanks for the replies.

Love this site!

uel sprayingThere's no fuel running Well, it will be easy to fixSo much for me figuring it was the main fuel supply line!

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

That big line that goes to the Evap canister and up towards the front should only have vapor in it. It bypasses the fuel filter and goes up to the front of the engine for vapor stuff. There’s usually a metal line along sections of the frame for it. In PA, that metal line likes to rot out and create an Evap leak. I’ve been replacing mine with fuel rated rubber line and aluminum tubing. It’s low pressure so no worries there. The other two lines go to the fuel filter, one is a pressure and one is a return, and those are 5/16” and 3/8” fittings. I just replaced both of those on my green 00 Ranger recently and went to -6AN line and fittings because I had that stuff on hand.

 

[P3x]

That big line that goes to the Evap canister and up towards the front should only have vapor in it. It bypasses the fuel filter and goes up to the front of the engine for vapor stuff. There’s usually a metal line along sections of the frame for it. In PA, that metal line likes to rot out and create an Evap leak. I’ve been replacing mine with fuel rated rubber line and aluminum tubing. It’s low pressure so no worries there. The other two lines go to the fuel filter, one is a pressure and one is a return, and those are 5/16” and 3/8” fittings. I just replaced both of those on my green 00 Ranger recently and went to -6AN line and fittings because I had that stuff on hand.

Thanks for the clarification. I performed some research after the responses to get up to speed on how the Evap system works. Before removing the pump, I took a closer look. To mu surprise, the pump is cracked about 200 degrees around, close to the outboard flange - see picture. I had replaced the pump in with a new Airtex in 2017.

Kicker is, I think I caused the crack while prepping the bed to paint with POR Bed Liner. Washed the truck, then used Marine Clean to clean the bed. After used their Metal Prep (Phospheric Acid) to neutralize any rust. Left it on overnight then washed it off. My Truck has a high ass end with water pooling at the front of the bed. Think the acid ended up leaking from the bed onto the top of the pump causing the crack. So bought a new pump and retaining ring to install the new pump to rule out retaining ring failure.

Now, I have to deal with the 1/2" Nylon line. Currently there's approx. 3" of line attached to the Y junction in the frame rail. I have the fittings in the freezer and have the Dorman Nylon Fitting Tool Kit. But don't think it has the dies for 1/2" fittings. With just 3" of line attached to the Y, doubt I'll be able to soak it in boiling water and hesitant to try to press a Barbed fitting into it as there's a good chance I'll break the Y.

Since this is a vapor line with minimal if any pressure, I noticed 1/4 Fuel Hose fits tightly in the 1/2" Nylon line. Think it may be a good fix coating the OD of the 1/4 line with Fuel Resistant Permatex and insert a 2" length into the Y Nylon line and Fitting end with two spring clamps on each end. Would like opinions from the forum members if this sounds feasible. The only drawback I see is reducing an 8" length of the Evap line from 1/2 ID to 1/4 ID.

What Say You?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I don’t think I’d neck down like that. If putting it back together with the Dorman stuff doesn’t work (if you have a heat gun you can carefully use it to warm the nylon line on the vehicle), then I’d probably see if I can find some fuel rated rubber line that would fit over the nylon (probably have to go to Napa or something they often have more odd things). If I couldn’t source rubber line to work, then I would see about getting any rubber line to fit, butt the plastic stuff together inside a short length of rubber. Also, you don’t want to push RTV into the line, so I’d seal the ends after putting it together.

 

[P3x]

I don’t think I’d neck down like that. If putting it back together with the Dorman stuff doesn’t work (if you have a heat gun you can carefully use it to warm the nylon line on the vehicle), then I’d probably see if I can find some fuel rated rubber line that would fit over the nylon (probably have to go to Napa or something they often have more odd things). If I couldn’t source rubber line to work, then I would see about getting any rubber line to fit, butt the plastic stuff together inside a short length of rubber. Also, you don’t want to push RTV into the line, so I’d seal the ends after putting it together.

That sounds like a better solution. Guess I'm approaching it Azz Backwards .. The line attached to the Y has been disconnected from the pump for a couple of weeks. Think I'll go with insert the fittings and Use 1/2" ID Fuel Hose to splice the Y stub to the original line with the connector.

I did find EVAP line during my search, think it was priced at anywhere from $312.00 - 429.00! I purchased the truck in 2011. Seems Mazda/Ford did not care too much about supplying spares. When I need a specific part, seems I have a 50-50 chance of finding one at a reasonable price.

A classic example was trying to find a replacement LH Front Brake Tube. The line that runs from the ABS Controller to the Wheel Well bracket. The line is basically a hard line on each end with a SS Flex line swedged in the middle, figure it's due to being a 4X4. Checked many dealers most had it listed as N/A. Some dealer web sites showed it available for around 28.00, nly to be told it's NA after I went thru the ordering process.

During an eBay search found a large parts dealer that had it listed for sale at $28.00. Contacted them, described it and sent them a picture of my corroded line asking them to physically check to make sure they had it. Yep, the person checked it and said it's available.

I ordered it and received notice it was out of stock. A month and a half go by and see they had it listed again for sale. This time the price was 325.00!

Frustrating...

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

That sounds like a better solution. Guess I'm approaching it Azz Backwards .. The line attached to the Y has been disconnected from the pump for a couple of weeks. Think I'll go with insert the fittings and Use 1/2" ID Fuel Hose to splice the Y stub to the original line with the connector.

I did find EVAP line during my search, think it was priced at anywhere from $312.00 - 429.00! I purchased the truck in 2011. Seems Mazda/Ford did not care too much about supplying spares. When I need a specific part, seems I have a 50-50 chance of finding one at a reasonable price.

A classic example was trying to find a replacement LH Front Brake Tube. The line that runs from the ABS Controller to the Wheel Well bracket. The line is basically a hard line on each end with a SS Flex line swedged in the middle, figure it's due to being a 4X4. Checked many dealers most had it listed as N/A. Some dealer web sites showed it available for around 28.00, nly to be told it's NA after I went thru the ordering process.

During an eBay search found a large parts dealer that had it listed for sale at $28.00. Contacted them, described it and sent them a picture of my corroded line asking them to physically check to make sure they had it. Yep, the person checked it and said it's available.

I ordered it and received notice it was out of stock. A month and a half go by and see they had it listed again for sale. This time the price was 325.00!

Frustrating...

I’ve been making my own brake hard lines for years. The way to eliminate the flexible piece is old school, make a tight spiral of brake line to work like a spring. I’ll have to get a pic of mine. I have a bit of 3/4” PVC electrical conduit that I wrap the line around to build a coil. Since rust is such an issue here, I don’t usually bother to try sourcing “factory” parts and just make what I need. Aluminum line for EVAP, low pressure fuel, coolant hard lines, transmission cooler lines, etc. Ni-Copper brake lines. Braided PTFE lines for high pressure fuel and such.