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2000 Mazda B4000 Positive battery leads


B52U

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2009
Messages
18
Vehicle Year
2000
Transmission
Manual
I have a 2000 Mazda B4000 4.0 liter V6 SE. The positive battery cable has corrosion and swelling moving down from the terminal. I replaced the terminal a long time ago, but would like to replace the positive battery cable and just run it along the outside of the harness to the starter solenoid.

My question is, it appears that my positive cable is actually split into 2 leads (both are swelled near the terminal), one of which goes to the starter solenoid. Where does the second lead go and about how long do I need each lead to be?

Looking at most of the pre-built existing replacement battery cables out there, they are single cables. Any suggestions would be welcome. I would like to avoid replacing the entire harness assembly.
 
Last edited:
It probably goes to the fuse box, wherever that is. Even so, when you replace it, you will find out where it goes. In a repair like this, I would explore the quick and dirty, which would be to clean up what is there and put an oil washer around the battery post. to seal it. If that wont work because it is too far gone. you are going to have to un-clip the harness and dig the cable out of the loom to figure out where it goes, Take the cable when you go looking for the replacement. You can always put a ring ended cable on the terminal bolt too.
 
I got it figured out. The auxiliary lead goes over to the left side of the power distribution box next to the master cylinder. There are too black wires going in underneath a hinged plastic cover. The first wire (towards the front of the truck) is the correct one (verified by checking ohm resistance with a multimeter). I was able to piggyback the original harness with a new custom made power cable that has one 4 foot lead and one 3 foot auxiliary lead. I just zip tied it onto the harness along its path. The hardest part of the repair was connecting the 4 foot lead to the starter solenoid positive terminal. I was able to reach it through the wheel well with the wheel and splash guard removed. Truck was braced on jack stands. Afterwards I cut the old positive harness wires near the battery terminal and capped them with electrical tape and shrink tube. Satisfying repair.
 

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