so after all the electrical harness put in, had to do head gasket, all new injectors, fuel pump fuel filter, crank sensors, iac, sounds better but still have running issue like before. Attached is video of it running I posted on YouTube.
2.5L ('98-'01) 2000 ford ranger 2.5l engine problems
- Thread starter Waldoduhh
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That sounds like a rod knock, as in the connecting rod bearing has failed. If you had water in the oil from a leaking head gasket, it could ruin the bearings as the oil will float on the coolant and get picked up by the oil pump and pumped through the oil galleries.
The shaking seems as if you have a dead miss, as in 100% misfire on at least one cylinder.
Did you find much coolant in the oil pan? Did you drain the oil when you replaced the head gasket? If not, it is likely that coolant was leaked into the pan when the head was removed.
I would check the spark on each cylinder, and do a compression test on each to determine if there is a mechanical cause for the problem. A bad COP will cause misfire, but likely not the noise. Have you checked for spark on each cylinder? If not, that would rule in or out the plugs and COPs as possible causes. You replaced the injectors, so likely don't have a problem with them, but could have a problem with the wires that make them squirt. Check for voltage on each wire with the key ON, engine not running. You should be able to measure voltage on both wires. When the computer supplies a ground to one wire, it makes the injector open the valve and squirt some fuel. The computer takes away the ground when it is done, so the wires should both go back to 12v.
tom
The shaking seems as if you have a dead miss, as in 100% misfire on at least one cylinder.
Did you find much coolant in the oil pan? Did you drain the oil when you replaced the head gasket? If not, it is likely that coolant was leaked into the pan when the head was removed.
I would check the spark on each cylinder, and do a compression test on each to determine if there is a mechanical cause for the problem. A bad COP will cause misfire, but likely not the noise. Have you checked for spark on each cylinder? If not, that would rule in or out the plugs and COPs as possible causes. You replaced the injectors, so likely don't have a problem with them, but could have a problem with the wires that make them squirt. Check for voltage on each wire with the key ON, engine not running. You should be able to measure voltage on both wires. When the computer supplies a ground to one wire, it makes the injector open the valve and squirt some fuel. The computer takes away the ground when it is done, so the wires should both go back to 12v.
tom
Hey Tom thanks for the info! So that was parts banging around the shell of the engine bay alot of stuff was unbolted, I started up the truck next day, now it runs fine idle no shaking of the motor nothing, but when I drive it does half of what it was doing but non conditional and on off. It stops if I let go of the gas in the moments it does it. But if I keep accelerating it will go away come back a few seconds and go away again. I took the hood off for shits and giggles and it seemed to do it slightly less. Ive changed every sensor that would relate I think to running performance aside from maf and tps. Im changing tps today. I thought maybe a vacuum leak but I cant get the condition to happen at idle now, and I've pretty much doused the whole engine in starter fluid trying to find the leak and nothing.
No coolant in oil pan i cleaned everything out, than new filter again as well. Spark is perfect on all cylinders, no compression issues either. Whole fuel system was redone, new injectors fuel pump and filter.
Also plug wires and sparks are new as well. Sorry for breaking it up forgot to add those in post
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What brand is the IAC valve...
Oem
I got my go pro charged up, got it mounted in the engine bay, im gonna record the new conditions using it and post it not long after. It's 230am here now though so won't be until about 11am or so when I post it
Heres the new video @Dirtman @tomw
I noticed watching it on the main road portion of it it harder to hear, but after i made the uturn at power plant i pushed it harder and got up to 60 mph with zero of the essential dead cylinder it seems im having. but as i started slowing down it started coming back on off, especially when i seen the cop at the last second xD
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Well I see one huge problem. Where is the fresh air side of the PCV system running since you have the port plugged off on that ridiculous intake tube?
Your throttle cable is also stretched to death so you undoubtedly don't have full throttle...
Plug wires tied together like that is also going to end up causing them to arc out...
Your throttle cable is also stretched to death so you undoubtedly don't have full throttle...
Plug wires tied together like that is also going to end up causing them to arc out...
Its that big hose going to the side of the throttle body. My old ranger that nob sticking out was capped off and the hose went to air intake, but for some reason this one was the opposite. Intake that was on it was rotted to crap so I used a intake tube I had laying around collecting dust lol. And yeah cant seem to find the little wire split mount that separates those and didn't want them to be sitting on the hot valve cover or touching head. I drove it to work tonight, roughly 50 miles, mainly highway, doing 70+ seems to run good, but when I get below 60 it does the on off rough running again.
Just a update for anyone that comes across this. It seems after shimming my hood by using washers where the hood attaches to the arms, and removing that seal at the top of the engine compartment worked to fix everything for the most part unless I gun it or rev it hard, than I get a very brief 5 second rough idle. I also cannot go above 70 unless I keep it in 4th gear or I am going downhill,and after about 60 mph and in 4th I can pedal to the floor and it barely goes. Takes forever to get to 80, but otherwise has run and drove 40+ miles one direction 5 days a week with no issues, also pulled about 3000lbs, trailer + load combined with no issues. No actual fix for poor performance and rough idle though. Hope the shimming atleast helps anyone that has these issues to bandage the problem. Will update thread again if I ever figure out the cause of the issues.
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To me, this sounds like a vacuum leak.
Somewhere you have a vacuum leak. Its just a tiny one, though and its only happening when the engine is revved.
Revving the engine causes vacuum to drop, and when that happens, something is opening up and causing the engine to run lean, thus it lacks power and can't go over 70 in OD.
When you let off the gas, the vacuum returns and whatever is leaking seals up and the engine runs fine.
Hope you can use that.
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I'd expect the opposite. Vacuum leaks seem much more of a problem at idle than at speed, got one now in my truck 
Rough idle could be IAC, lots of posts here on how to debug that and test TPS.
Can't go over 70, reads like not enough fuel. Got a fuel pressure gauge? Changed the fuel filter lately?
Rough idle could be IAC, lots of posts here on how to debug that and test TPS.
Can't go over 70, reads like not enough fuel. Got a fuel pressure gauge? Changed the fuel filter lately?
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