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2.9L timing help


New parts:
Distributor, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, Ignition coil, Ignition switch, Ignition key switch, ECM, Starter module, all 3 relays, Intake air control valve, TPS, Intake air sensor, Temp Sensor, Temp Gauge Sensor, Alternator, Battery, Battery cables and ground cables, Both Fuel Pumps, Cleaned the fuel tank, EGR Valve, EGR Sensor, Map sensor, and more. Only parts I have not Changed are the Fuel Pressure regulator, Injectors and heard there is a Knock sensor, if so I have not changed that.
 
So I got the intake off. There is a intake gasket leak and the injectors are clogged beyond cleaning. New injectors and gasket will be in in the morning. Thanks for putting me in the right Direction. I'll update as I get it all back together.
 
Now the fun starts. "clean, rebuild and Test" all the injectors. I bet under the lower intake is baked oil about a inch thick. That 302 is looking now, aint it. Time and money is all it takes. Dirty
 
Boots,

This is anal but...I have found that it makes a measurable improvement in vacuum and overall timing correctness.

SIMPLY:

-the engine should at normal operating temperature before removing the spout plug to set the correct base engine timing with the timing gun.

-it has been my experience that for any specific engine the correct timing will be just a hair before maximum vacuum is measured.
 
Gaz, I think he is busy pulling the extra 10 pounds of baked oil from underneath the lower intake. I see you have a 1987, ever take the lower intake off. Dirty
 
Now the fun starts. "clean, rebuild and Test" all the injectors. I bet under the lower intake is baked oil about a inch thick. That 302 is looking now, aint it. Time and money is all it takes. Dirty
I think about a v8 swap once in awhile. But it would turn my daily driver into a high hp fun gas hog. I think the v6, especially the 2.9, is "just right" for these little trucks and Bii's. Decent power when they are running right, and easy to get 20mpg and have 4x4 to boot. A v8 would change it's personality the wrong way for me and what I want. If we could get past the very unfriendly EECIV system, we could make some progress. The aftermarket is getting closer to some reasonable solutions.
 
Now the fun starts. "clean, rebuild and Test" all the injectors. I bet under the lower intake is baked oil about a inch thick. That 302 is looking now, aint it. Time and money is all it takes. Dirty


So I got the new injectors in. Took off the lower intake and cleaned the 80lbs of burnt and old oil out. Reassembled and the truck fired right off. Sounds great and then 30 seconds later stalled out. Fired it back up and ran for a few mins then stalled. Running a lot soother. So I got it to temp by playing with the throttle, set timing at 10 Degrees after it was to temp then pulled spout out. After setting timing it ran good for a few mins then died. Now it will fire off but die immediately. Tried to pull codes but the reader won't connect. There are two plugs I don't remember disconnecting pictured below. Also while reconnecting and go back over everything I noticed the ground for the HP fuel pump came off, so I reconnected that. I was so excited as it sounded new again. Also the Fuel Pressure regulator and fuel house are now leaking so I need to source those. One more thing, The Orange Ground by the distributor, does that attatch to the intake or the block. I couldn't remeber.
 

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Oh and i forgot to mention , label all the wires you disconnect LOL. Running on all 6 big soup cans now?
 
Boots,

The connector is the 1st pic, on the heater blower side goes to the A/C.

I'll take a look under the hood after daylight and locate the wire connector your holding by you brake reservoir but I thought the only place that funky connector was used is to the neg battery terminal wire.
 
Both connectors are on the driver side and the ac blows cold. I redid the timing chain, New computer (ecm,ecc whatever). truck started up and idles. Warmed it up and reset it to 10 degrees. Went to drive it and still bogging out. Checked codes and got 63c (tp circuit below minimum voltage. 34o (egr pressure transducer sensor) and 35c ( no ege position signal, rpm low) where do I look from here? About to put full coverage and light it on fire lol. Is there a place to get a new wiring harness?
 
You need to check all the new sensors and sending units you installed. All of these have values in units of ohms and voltage, they send signals to the ECM. Follow all the trouble codes(63, 34, 35) to there perspective sensor and test. Most of these test are found in the manual and are easy to do witha simple digital volt meter DVM. Keep plugging
 
My Hynes manual has no test procedures but I have prodemand so I will start testing my little heart out. Stupid question but will a carbureted 2.3l bolt into a 2.9L truck? If so the engine is for sale lol. Way better with a carb or obd2 system.
 
Throttle position sensor needs to be looked at again. Guy in the book says when you get a code 63 (tp circuit low) unplug the wiring plug to it, and take a jumper and jump the Vref wire (usually orange) to the tp signal wire (usually darkgreen with lightgreen stripe). Then run the codes again. You should get a code 53. If you do get a code 53, he says to replace the tp sensor.

If you still get a code 63 with the jumper in place, check for 5 volts dc on the vref orange wire. If you have 5v on the vref wire, he says repair the darkgreen/lightgreen signal wire, it has a break in it somewhere to the computer.
 
I don't know anything about the 2.3. Like any engine it to will have problems to. These EECIV are sometimes trying though. Try looking under the tech library under eec-iv/tfi-iv, or listen to franklin2 closely.
 

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