- Joined
- Jul 7, 2025
- Messages
- 58
- Points
- 101
- City
- Atlanta
- State - Country
- GA - USA
- Vehicle Year
- 1986
- Vehicle
- Ford Ranger
- Drive
- 2WD
- Engine
- 2.9 V6
- Transmission
- Automatic
Hey guys, I'm on my 2nd failed fuel pressure regulator and I'm kinda done with the non-adjustable mechanism, so I'm installing a ridiculously cheap adjustable regulator to bypass the annoyance that I keep experiencing.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/197669099160 is the regulator, it's dirt cheap and the return outlet is 9mm, instead of the 9.6mm on the stock one. I think a slightly bigger O-ring will work perfectly fine, although the end might need to be trimmed down to fit into the fuel rail. I'm tired of the old hard lines and I'll be replacing all the send fuel lines, leaving only the returns original. I think that there's a crimp in the line towards the end of the fuel filter, the cheapo plastic ones are pissing me off.
I'll drop photos of what I'm doing as I go through this, so that y'all can do this if you want. Unfortunately in the era of constantly failing parts, it's becoming clear to me that I just need to have every passively modulating mechanism reduced to something that I can control with a screwdriver. If this thing destroys itself as well, so be it, it's 15 dollars and I can keep getting new ones until one works, unlike spending $45 on a unit that's broken from the factory.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/197669099160 is the regulator, it's dirt cheap and the return outlet is 9mm, instead of the 9.6mm on the stock one. I think a slightly bigger O-ring will work perfectly fine, although the end might need to be trimmed down to fit into the fuel rail. I'm tired of the old hard lines and I'll be replacing all the send fuel lines, leaving only the returns original. I think that there's a crimp in the line towards the end of the fuel filter, the cheapo plastic ones are pissing me off.
I'll drop photos of what I'm doing as I go through this, so that y'all can do this if you want. Unfortunately in the era of constantly failing parts, it's becoming clear to me that I just need to have every passively modulating mechanism reduced to something that I can control with a screwdriver. If this thing destroys itself as well, so be it, it's 15 dollars and I can keep getting new ones until one works, unlike spending $45 on a unit that's broken from the factory.
