2.9 removal

[88ranger2.95sp]

ok after alot of contemplation adn decisions, i have decided to keep my truck and just fix it up... i can't get rid of my first car just that quick lol. but on the upgrade list comes a new motor (my main bearings are gone!)

i want a 2.9, no upgrades, no 4.0, too much work for an 18 year old workin and goin to school full time. and it's my DD. i have a motor in sight at a local u-pull-it. no milkshake, no leaky, no nothin. but it doesn't have a throttle body (but the one off my truck will work just fine then..) and its UGLY. the local u-pull-it will remove and put into my truck for 150 cash. here's where it gets fun...

my old motor will lhave to be removed (obviously). i have access to everything i woulld need (hoist, impact, everything) at my friend's shop. i also have a 3inch body lift, so room is not an issue. i talked to my dad adn he said a few hours MAX. i mean youcan hold the motor mount in your hand.

what are the steps to removal? i mean i get the general gist of it from watching it done amillion and one times but any problems i may run into ahead of time please let me know. THanks in advance for help!

ROb

 

[abrush]

2.9L engines are pretty easy to remove. Just make sure you unbolt the tranny lines that are connected to the engine. They are sometimes hard to see. I usually unhook all the electrical first and then move to the engine and tranny.

 

[Psychopete]

I usually unhook all the electrical first and then move to the engine and tranny.

+1

It will save you a head ache later on to mark where every connection goes. I usually group bolts together and mark where they came from, or put them back into the hole where they came from.

Exhaust manifold bolts will probably be the most problematic.

Not sure what years you're dealing with, but if it were me, I'd just swap the whole upper from the old onto the new.

You might consider priming the engine via. oil pump. I've never seen a priming tool, but one can be made out of an old distributor (you might have one handy).

A swivell head ratchet helps on the two top bell housing bolts.

I had to drop and I-Beam to get one of the motor mounts out, I couldn't remember which. Some have said they've been able to get it with out doing this, but I don't know how it was possible. Maybe a series of u-joints? Won't be required if you're not changing them, however I would.

I'll add more if I think of anything else..

Pete

 

[88ranger2.95sp]

thanks for the assistance! i def need a whole new motor, as it was underwater. the main bearings click and clack (not lifters) whenever light throttle is applied. its toast. thanks for the idea though.. if this ever needs to happen again, i will consider that for sure.

ROb

 

[Navyman]

overhauling an engine

Prior to installing a new engine, overhauled or new, a good practice is to pack the Oil Pump, which should be new, with Petroluem Jelly. Sometimes you can get the bolts or screws loose on the Plate that covers the area where the gears are located. I have never done one of these fords but if they are a gear pump pack the entire pump with the above, (Vaseline), if you cannot get the bolts off then get a Turkey Baster at Ace, etc. pack it with Jelly, and squirt into pump until full. This practice helps in two ways, one is very important. 1) your pump is primed, and will suck Oil from the pan immediately. 2) If your oil pump does not have anything in it the gears will score the inside of the plate which should be only a few thousands away in clearance, therefore ruining the pump to a certain degree immediately. Your subsequent Oil pressure will not be up to par. If you can buy a HIGH VOLUME Oil PUMP, which as a rule are more expensive, that will be a better way to go if you are prowling around in the boon docks at low speeds. You will get much better oiling to all parts of your engine. I would not recommend a High Pressure pump, either standard or High Volume. It should be NEW, not the old one and not a used one. One of the Golden Rules of engine overhaul!