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2.9 ignition issues, need help!


when i had my distributor out i thought it was solid,several shadetree mechanic friends said (ain,t nothing wrong with dat,put it back in).finally took it to advance auto parts,mainly for the 1$ core charge(yes im cheap)and i took a moment to compare the rebuilt unit to my core,and i could feel the difference imediately.put the rebuilt motorcraft distributor in and what a difference!.80.00 bucks well spent.150,000 miles on previous distributor.
 
I finally got it!

I replaced the ignition control module on the distributor and it runs great now.
 
did you apply firm finger pressure back and forth and measure it?

often there will be oily sludge in the bushing that will hold it steady for a moment but not for long (why it runs eraticly) and then redeposit itself back in there.
though I have never seen a tolerance for this discard it at 0.015"


Bob

Both my distributors (one in truck and one used spare ) seem to have alot of slop in the shaft bushing at the base. One has 0.022" and the other has 0.025" vertical play. Both have a good amount of side to side play at the base bushing (drive gear end)...think it's time for a rebuilt unit. I get about 5 or 6 degrees of spark scatter with spout in, but rock steady when setting the base timing (spout removed).

How are the A-! Cardone rebuilds? That is all anybody seems to carry...is there a better, best, good brand to buy?
 
Replaced my distributor with rebuilt unit and it runs alot better!!!! Compared the rebuilt units' freeplay to all my used ones....and had no doubt that I should buy it! LOL...scrapped all but one of my worn out spares.
 
Hi All -

I just got an '86 Ranger 2.9, 4x4, 5spd and have gone through and replaced a few items - fuel filter, TPS, checked fuel flow, spark, timing (was retarded 14 degrees when I got it....)

Anyway - the problem I have is that when I accelerate in first gear moderately, there is bucking and jerking - if I floor it - it clears up, but still there is a surge and it seems to feel weak - not alot of pull as I sometimes get the feeling is there.....

As I accelerate through the gears - it does ok, but still seems to be missing some power.

The base timing is rock steady at 11 degrees - but the timing with the spout in is in range - but all over the place...with my advance timing light, I can see it is at about 27 - but it is not steady at all.

I see you (Nate) had some issues like this and I'm interested to see if you symptoms were similar to mine and ho well they cleared up with the new dizzy.

Thanks for any help,
 
Sounds like a bad TPS but since you replaced it was it a NEW or a used spare? I've had several spares that were used and no good. BTW a worn distributor will make it worse and have less power. This is all asssuming that your timing chain is still good. You can chekc your chain by lining up the timing marks and with the engine off and key out...don't want it startin on ya. :) Gently rock the crankshaft back and forth carefull moving it only the amount of freeplay in the timing chain, not so far either direction as to turn the camshaft too! Watch the timing mark on the tab while doing so and you can see how many degrees of crankshaft rotation worth of freeplay your timing chain has. Please post back how many degrees you get....less is better. :) How many miles on your engine?

Bad o2 sensor and ECT sensors can mess things up too. What codes do you get?
 
Sounds like a bad TPS but since you replaced it was it a NEW or a used spare? I've had several spares that were used and no good.
***TPS was a new one from Autozone.

BTW a worn distributor will make it worse and have less power.
***pulled the dizy tonight - there is some lateral play in it and it sounds cry to spin it - not smooth at all - I am thinking this might be the problem.... I tested the TFI by ohming it out and many of the readings were off by maybe 10 - 20 percent....looks like an aftermarket one since it does not say Ford on it - but not sure....The terminals in the cap and the rotor were pretty severly corroded - scrapped it off about a week ago - and tonight they were nasty again - I think a new cap is in order but wonder what is causing the severe corrosion....maybe a cross between the corroded terminals and the play in the dizzy causing too large a gap here....who knows....
This is all asssuming that your timing chain is still good. You can chekc your chain by lining up the timing marks and with the engine off and key out...don't want it startin on ya. :) Gently rock the crankshaft back and forth carefull moving it only the amount of freeplay in the timing chain, not so far either direction as to turn the camshaft too! Watch the timing mark on the tab while doing so and you can see how many degrees of crankshaft rotation worth of freeplay your timing chain has. Please post back how many degrees you get....less is better. :)
***I'll check this out when I get the new dizzy in...

How many miles on your engine?
***about 60k - 80 on truck but apparently the engine was replaced with about 20k on due to freeze cracked block....anyway to tell the year of the motor???

Bad o2 sensor and ECT sensors can mess things up too.
***O2 sensor is new - air and fluid temp sensors ohmed out ok.

What codes do you get?
***No codes - I had codes, but once I finally did the test properly, it now comes up ok..


Thanks for your help - going to change out the Dizzy, TFI, cap, and rotor and check the timing chain....let me know if this sounds ok....thanks again.
 
Thanks for your help - going to change out the Dizzy, TFI, cap, and rotor and check the timing chain....let me know if this sounds ok....thanks again.

You're welcome and sounds like what I'd change out based on your info. Spend the extra $$$ for the good quality cap/rotor the ones with the brass contacts, not aluminum.
 
Progress report -

Well I changed out the TFI, dizzy, cap, and rotor - set timing to 11, plugged in spout jumper - noticed immediate improvement of spark "scatter" - seemed much more solid.


test drive was great - but after driving for a couple of days - it seems like very intermittent loss of power. After idling at a light for a bit, I'll take off and the truck will buck a bit - unless I take off real easy.. then a little stumble going through the gears...oter times - it goes right through the gears great....don't know if there may have been some bad fuel in the tank that I am finally getting cleared out or what - I believe the truck sat for a while before I got it - so we'll see..

For me right now it is fine - I'll check some other things out as I get some free time - thanks for all the knowledge on this board.
 

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