2.9 engine miss?

[kimcrwbr1]

as far as the knock sensor being close to the manifold maybe you could put a piece of tin in between as a heat shield if you can`t get the stud out GL Kim

 

[Spitfire1975]

sounds like a good plan of attack. Will let you know how it goes.

 

[Spitfire1975]

OK. I think this is FINALLY it! It wasn't running all that great so I changed the exhaust system from the y-pipe back. Took it for a test drive and so far....RUNS GREAT!!!!! Smooth, no noticeable lack of power and have not noticed the "miss" under load. Idles at 1150 when cold and in the open loop and drops to 850 when it warms up and goes into closed loop. I think I can safely say....PROBLEM SOLVED!!!! Listed below is what was wrong ( I don't think I am missing anything...)
1. Had bad plugs, rotor and wires.
2. EGR sensors were bad (valve, pressure feedback AND control module)
3. Coil was weak
4. TPS was iffy
5. Distributor pick up was bad
6. TFI was iffy
7. O2 sensor was bad
8. Knock sensor was bad
9. Timing was off (even before I messed it up further)

and finally, in no small part to the above listed items,

10. a plugged/partially plugged exhaust system.

I know that was a difficult thread to read, but I think it shows that if you are having the same issues, more than likely it is not just one issue or problem. Start researching and troubleshooting.

Thank you to everyone who helped. I hope this helps someone else. Will update once more and give you a freeway mileage report. More than likely next week.

Now on to the suspension issues......
......and wiring the center console/transfer case........
and painting it.........

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Well it`s about frigging time glad you finally got it running good. Anxious to hear on what you mileage will be Kim was the muffeler or the cats that were plugged

 

[Spitfire1975]

Hard to tell with the cats, I haven't demolished them to find out, But I saw a bunch of crap coming out from underneath the inlet and outlet screens. All sorts of black carbon crap fell out of the muffler when I took it off. I am assuming it was a little of both.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I got my 2.8 running pretty good now but need to do the same thing. just replace the whole system now that it no longer is burning oil through the valve guides I can put a new cat in it and might as well go all the way. cheers

 

[Spitfire1975]

Won't hurt anything. Mine was easy to change. No problems with frozen bolts. It was more difficult rounding up all of the pieces. AFTER ordering the parts, I was at AutoZone 4 times tonight. Why can't they list all of the required parts to install the tailpipe? Can it really be that difficult?

 

[Spitfire1975]

OK. still getting the 25 code (knock sensor not tested). Not getting any others. Getting 15-16 mpgs in town and about 20-21 freeway (3.73's with 235 75's). Idle isn't perfect but it's ok. Every once in a while, after starting it when warm, it will stutter and die. Fires right back up - no problems. Would a bad knock sensor cause any weird issues? It's not knocking. Still misses occasionally under load. Almost like the Engine shuts off for a split second.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Have you checked the muffeler bering could be worn out

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I dont know you put a used knock sensor in try tapping on the block and see if it is still working with the timing light on or have someone else tap while your looking I know if it is not torqued correct it wont work right. but your symptoms sound more like a loose connector or vacuum or something. erase the codes then unhook the battery for 15 mins take it for a test drive and do the KOER test again and see if the code comes back you can also erase the codes and set the computer to perform the wiggle test and try and locate the fault that way intermittent faults are a biotch.

 

[Spitfire1975]

It's got a new muffler bearing.

 

[Spitfire1975]

What about a loose connection in the steering column ignition switch?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

maybe the switch itself I had the headlights go out on my jeep the high beams worked so i got a new switch and when i pulled the switch the connector was half in and it worked perfect since still have the new switch in the glove box, come to think of it had the same problem with the wipers but I changed the switch cause the handle was new and could see the icons

 

[Spitfire1975]

I have a situation where if I don't have the key in the exact right spot, the radio turns off for a few seconds when ever I switch between the regular lights and the bright lights.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

don`t you have a spare ignition in your pile o stuff sounds like a bad contact internal in the switch not really worth a bone yard part if you need to spend money go new unless you can get one for free.