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2.9 engine miss?


EGR Vacuum Control replaced. No idling difference at all. Still pinging away and can't put it under enough load to tell if the miss is gone. New Symptom: whatever the switch next to the battery is (with the positive cable coming in and then out to the starter), started buzzing for about 15-20 seconds after I shut the truck off and removed the key. Ideas??
 
I am going out right now to change the air temperature and coolant temperature sensors
 
If you can't get above 6* you screwed something up. If you took the dis out you need to go back and try again, you are a tooth off somehow.

Check the roll pin that holds the cam gear in place on the dis stem. I had one break on me a few years ago, took me forever to figure out why it wasn't running right.
 
That was kinda my thought. I should be able to (theoretically) pull the dist. out a little a just set it back in, right?? What does the roll pin look like? Cam gear is obviously a gear...
by the way. Air temp sensor tested good, didn't mess with coolant temp sensor yet, not throwing any codes for it. Performed the goose test when getting codes and it told me there was no response from the MAP. Changed that and reran test and that code went away. Still not idling right. Only codes I am getting now is a 41 (lean), 73 TPS out of range (i set it higher to keep it running) and a 25. No more EGR codes! F*** yea! Is a steady 30 lbs of fuel pressure ok?? It's not the spec'd 36ish.
 
and would the timing being off 4 degrees cause it to knock as much as it is? It's pinging like a Chinese hooker. Or would that be more related to the possible bad O2 sensor and the lean condition?
 
"Check the roll pin that holds the cam gear in place"

Is this the pin that slides through the dist stem holding the replaceable gear on the shaft? If it is broken I only need to buy the replacement gear and pin, right?
 
Yes, thats the pin I'm talking about. If it's broken you should only need a new pin. They get weak over time because they aren't particularly strong to begin with.

I just straightened the holes up and ran the new pin through the hole to push the old one out.
 
I will be sure to check it out. I have another dizzy in the garage. could always steal its pin.
 
OK. Fuel filter changed. Needed it, but wasn't horrendous. O2 sensor changed. No difference in closed loop idling. Thought I would use my timing gun to check spark on all my plugs. #1 cylinder is not getting spark on the same frequency as the "miss" and rough idle. Narrowing down the problem to the distributor??? Is there something in the distributor I need to check, such as a pickup, etc..... The cam gear and roll pin look fine.
 
OK. Found a bad #1 wire. Replaced it. Still not getting the right spark. Took out dizzy and replaced the pickup with a newer-ish one. Solved the spark issue. Still idles like crap. actually got the base timing set to 10*. Idles pretty good when the SPOUT is not hooked up. Plug in the SPOUT......crappy idle. What the hell is left to check on this thing????? Oh....and the buzzing??? Seems to be coming from the new EGR Vacuum Control Solenoid, NOT the solenoid starter switch (unplug it and the buzzing stops).


WTF?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
 
Is this stuff that has been covered so much everyone is rolling their eyes? Or is my truck unique enough it needs to be scrapped.
 
Wondering if my problems are head gasket related. Problem is it seems to run fine when cold. Runs fine if I unplug one of the vacuum lines and runs pretty good if I leave the SPOUT unhooked. As soon as it goes into closed loop the problems start. Bad relay? I kinda wish I hadn't given it a tune up. Was running halfway decent Before new plugs, cap, rotor, TFI, EGR, etc......I can't drive it now. It won't stay running.
 
I am going to give it another compression test tomorrow to see if something goofy is going on.
 

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