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2.5 with a case of the funk


bjdm151

Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2009
Messages
13
City
LExington, KY
Vehicle Year
2001
Transmission
Manual
All right, started up the truck the other morning and its idling like it has a wicked vacuum leak. Then the IAC kicks in and it revs up to about 2500 and hangs there for a while and slowly starts coming down. I pop the hood and start checking for vacuum leaks and any loose wires. Pull a plug wire and check spark, good. Start pulling connectors from sensors one by one and nothing changes. I can even hold the throttle open and unplug the IAC and let it idle, like crap at 1000 rpm. Try to drive the truck and at first it seems OK but then starts falling on its face off and on, bad enough to not be able to drive across town to the shop.

Borrow my sisters car and head to the shop and pick up a scan tool,fuel pressure tester, noid lite, and some other crap. Get back to the house and I can't communicate with the PCM. I can talk to the ABS, Airbag, and GEM but not the PCM. Hook up the noid light and the injectors are firing. I have fuel pressure. Logically it must be spark related cause a computer would suck.

Head to the store and pick up plugs, wires, and coils. As I'm pulling off the old plug wires most off them are coming apart and the electrodes on the plugs are skinnier than Kate Moss. Get everything put on and still doing the same thing.

EGR right. If the EGR is stuck open it would be like a big vacuum leak at idle. Pull the gasket off and head to the shop and make a block off plate. On the way home i grab some MAF cleaner and Carb cleaner. Block off plate doesn't work. Cleaning the MAF doesn't work. Spray carb cleaner all over trying to find any vacuum leaks, nothing.

I pull the harness off the PCM and check continuity between it and the DLC. Eerything checks out allright. I notice that the check engine light isn't on either.

Replace the Cam sensor just because I've heard lots of bad stuff going on there and they are cheap. (And once you figure out its not on the head its easy to find, right.) No fix.

Had a friend from another shop (I mostly work on old cars) check it out. His scan tool didn't hook up. (I even tried a third scanner) He ran all the same vacuum, sensor checks I did. He was perplexed. HE talked to a couple ford mechanics he know and they all agreed that PCMs rarely go bad.

But as I sight here typing this, I am starting to think it is.

Its not plugs, wires, coils, CMP, or EGR. Those are all replaced or blocked off.

I can unplug the IAC and rpm instantly drops and either dies or stays at whatever if my thumb is on the throttle.

Its not the MAF, O2s, IAT, or TPS those can all be unplugged and the truck can be driven with the same power/ no power results.

The timing belt hasn't slipped or skipped a tooth. Again, can drive it with power no power and it idles almost smooth at 2500 with just the occasional sputters.

Fuel problem? Probably not. Noid light said the injectors were firing. It idles smooth when you ( or the truck) raises the rpm, and you can drive it with power no power.

Usually when an input/ sensor goes bad the PCM will go into Failure Mode (FMEM). Might drive a slight bit funky and you can't go over 40ish, but it idles fine and drives nonetheless.

And it was perfectly fine when I drove it home the night before.

Get those Brains working!!!!!

Sorry this is a long post. I'm glad I found a Ranger forum!
 
Start testing at the DLC.
Pin16 should have 12 volts.
Pin 4 is PCM ground....less than 5 ohms to ground
Pin 5 is chasis ground ... less than 5 ohms to ground
Pin 2 Bus +
Pin 10 Bus -
Disconnect PCM... Test DLC pin 2 to PCM pin 16 for continuity.. short to ground.. short to power
Test DLC pin 10 to PCM pin 15 for continuity.. short to ground.. short to power
IFall these tests are good reconnect the PCM. With Key on Disconnect the TPS. Check for reference voltage (5 v) TPS connector pin1 brown/white wire.
IF all the above tests are good you have a bad PCM.
Post the results of these tests. Hope this helps.
 
Thanks,

I had looked all over for a pinpoint test for no com with the pcm but hadn't found anything.

Will get to that this afternoon after work. The Mustang SVO club (read messy) is in for a dyno day.
 
I had these similar symptoms when the MAF failed on my truck...........
 
Dyno day sucked and the last thing I wanted to do when I got home was work on my truck.
It was raining all day and that means laying down on a wet floor to strap cars in. On top of that wet me leaning on a wet car hooking up tack leads to a coil equals a little buzz. Nothing like getting hit by the high side but it will still wake you up.
 
DLC pin 16 12 volts OK
DLC pin 4 1.1 ohms OK
DLC pin 5 0.0 ohms OK

How do you test DLC pin 2 bus+ and pin 10 bus-? I checked voltage at pin 2 koeo and there was 0v and nothing at pin 10 either.

Went back through and checked for continuity, shorts to power and ground from DLC 2 to PCM 16 and DLC 10 10 to PCM 15 and they both checked fine.

5v ref at TPS pin 1 koeo checked
 
Last edited:
OK I went back over the diagnostics in the emissions manual. They do not show any readings for the PCM on the bus pins 2 and 10 on the DLC connector. There are a couple of tests I'm not sure was done.
Are the bus + and bus- shorted together with PCM disconnected?
With the TPS disconnected does the scan tool make a connection?
If the answer to both the above questions is NO, then the PCM is bad.
I have seen about a dozen bad PCM's, 1 due to charging system putting out about 20 volts but that one also had many bulbs burnt out also. Then a couple of vehicles hit by lightning the rest were just failed PCM of undetermined cause.
 
Brought the scan tool home and ran the rest of the tests. Ordering a PCM in the morning. It would be nice to have one of the ford scanners that has the communication error testers on it. Oh well. What really sucks is this happens a month and a half before I deploy for a year and won't even see the truck.
 
Just wanted to give you guys an update.

Ordered the Computer last Wednesday and it finally came in on Thursday. Ran it across town to the stores other location to get it flashed and was informed they couldn't flash it because it was a Ford and all they did there were GM's.:annoyed: Went back to the store where I got it and they sent it out to another store to get flashed.

Got it back this Monday and popped it in the truck. :pray: Turned the key on and COMMUNICATION!!!!!!!! Checked to make sure I had all the other sensors plugged in and went to start it.

Crank and YEAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!:icon_hornsup::yahoo: It took a few minutes to get the cylinders cleared out but it has ran flawlesley since. I even put 250 miles on it yesterday and I think my gas mileage has even improved.

Thanks to everyone here at the Ranger Station who helped out.:icon_cheers:
 

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