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2.5 no heat


Mightyfordranger

Well-Known Member
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Apr 22, 2014
Messages
1,029
City
Ohio
Vehicle Year
1989
Engine
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
3in
My credo
Clean your room before you criticise the world.
My little 2.5 won't get warm and it sucks cause I'm tired of being cold all the time if you drive it it will climb a little but when I come to a stop sign it will cool right down instantly I can watch it drop in the guage I replaced the thermostat the rad cap it helped some but not much I also flushed the heater core with water its got a leak but not enough to make a mess it just smells like antifreeze
In the cab for a bit and I pressure tested the system and it has a tiny ass pin hole in the very top of the radiator so I'm at a loss here any thoughts the radiator doesn't leak any either
 
I'd get the rad fixed or replaced...you can buy a used rad for under $50 usually and it is worth it if the other one can't be fixed...a tiny hole can loose enough fluid and allow pressure to ooze out enough to cause your symptoms...

If the hole is in plastic material then you might be able to patch it with some good adhesive like that mighty goop or whatever it's called...comes in a package with a syringe and you gotta mix it so it hardens properly...

Other than that...you're gonna chill more than you can tolerate when the weather turns cold...

You can use the 2.3 rads from older Rangers if you can't find one for the 2.5...they work just as well...
 
That's what I was kinda thinking as well the pin hole in the rad is the prob but when I bought that one I made sure i got the lifetime warranty so I just go tell them there sh#t sucks and give me a new one :D ......thanks
 
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First thing would be to check fan clutch, start engine and run it for about 30sec, you should hear fan noise when first started then fan noise should diminish in a few seconds as fan clutch fluid thins out and engages clutch so fan isn't "grabbing" air any more so less noise.
Shut off engine and spin the fan blades, should spin easy.

If it doesn't then replace fan clutch, it is stuck and not releasing fan blades, this is over cooling engine bay and engine.

The Lima engines do not generate alot of heat, it is very common for people in colder climates to put cardboard, at first, in front of radiator to prevent cold air from coming into engine bay while driving, this helps keep the engine at 195deg operating temp.
Some even use 205degF thermostats to keep engine warm, stock t-stat is 192-195degF.
Once you have the correct size of cardboard switch to a better material, plastic board or ??

You can also use pipe insulation on the heater hoses, the flexible foam stuff, this lessens heat loss in cold weather.
 
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Hhhhmmm interesting I used the cardboard one year but yes it does get down to 10-20 below zero deg F out here sometimes
 
Yes, I used the cardboard on half of my rad a few years...especially those -35 nights...and even then it was just barely enough heat to keep the windshield clear...

I think if they replace the rad for you it should solve a few of your problems though...as long as it is filled and burped properly it should give fairly good heat...using a block heater (my 2.5 came with one from factory) helps immensely with these engines...my 2.3 with a carburetor would start first crank every time even at -30...and the heat would start almost immediately...keeping it hot was another matter so blocking the rad and using a higher temp t-stat like RonD mentioned will also help...

Long underwear and layers do wonders for staying warm too...:)
 
Fan clutch is the big thing from your description.

"Engine temp is "normal" when driving and drops when stopped."

Fan clutch works by radiator heat not engine heat.
On the front of the fan clutch is a spring, this spring holds a valve open in the clutch part.
With valve open fan is free to spin, it is given incidental spin from water pump pulley but doesn't move much air.
As radiator's "center" heats up so does spring, if you heat metal it expands, so spring expands, closing clutch valve bit by bit and fan starts to spin closer and closer to water pump speed.
So pulls more air thru radiator to cool it and into engine bay when rad is hot.

Fan clutches usually fail with valve open, so fan doesn't start spinning faster, tell tale for that is........
"Engine temp is "normal" when driving but when I stop temp starts to rise"
That's because fan is spinning free and not pulling air thru rad when stopped, opposite of your complaint
 
Well Ill start with the fan clutch just cause then Ill swap the rad and while I'm in there toss a water pump in it too
And if that won't help......I'll buy a new dam truck ha ha
 
You can always use a Eberspacher gas heater in the cab :)

Used in volkswagens with air cool engines, so no hot coolant available, just like you have now, lol.
 
Ha ha sounds great....but I hear they catch fire alot...lol
Also i havent been able to catch a ride to the auto parts store to swap the rad out for a new one so I'm just gonna be cold till this weekend. But it started getting hotter on the highway. But it'll get hot like up to operating temp then just drop all on its own and keep doin that till I get off the highway.....wonder if my sending unit is bad
 

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