I've gotten a lot further on getting my project back on the road. I ordered some arp head studs and got them installed (which are super nice btw). The first go around I used felpro head bolts for the ford block and ran into an issue. It seems the Volvo head is a little thicker so I only got 3 or 4 threads of engagement and actually ripped the threads out of one corner. I hoped the studs would be longer than the bolts so I could get full engagement in the block. Turned out they were and I was basically able to bottom out the studs and still have full engament of the nut! So now my head is on. I'm almost done modifying my exhaust manifold and then I'll get that on. Intake is on. I made a vacuum tree that still needs to be installed. I still need to get cam seals before the timing belt goes on. I also need a catalytic converter so I can pass emissions so I'll be looking to pick one up. Then I can finish my exhaust. I still need to weld in a bung for the rear o2 sensor and a third for my wideband guage. Should be up and running soon! Photo bucket doesn't work as nicely with my phone so here is a link to my album. I added a few pictures if you're interested!
Right now I only have a 4lb spring installed in my wastegate. I'm running 19lb injectors and a modified maf. Worked great when I ran it this way last summer. I'm collecting parts to turn the boost up, so far I have a high flow fuel pump and bigger injectors. I need to get an intercooler and I'm saving for an SCT tuner and software and bigger MAF.
Small update. I don't have pictures, in CO for the weekend but I took 1/8 of an inch off the back of my cam wheels for better alignment. I'm going to build a different tensioner from my last one. I ordered a vw wheel that I'm hoping will work for what I'm wanting to do, it has lips on the sides which I like to help keep the belt aligned. I'll get some pics when it comes. I also picked up some metal ties for the exhaust and it is ready to be installed. When I get paid this week I'll pick up a few more pieces for the exhaust. Once the timing belt is all set up how I want I need to hook up the radiator hose, fill her up with coolant, install a new battery (old one crapped out on me), hook up my intake hoses and start it up! I bought a piece that splices into the radiator hose and has a hole threaded for 1/8 pipe. I'm going to enlarge and tap it for 3/8 pipe and install a 210 on/195 off switch for my radiator fan. Right now I have the kind of sensor that sits in the fins and I don't really trust it. Once it's running I can take it to work and throw it on the lift and finish my exhaust.
I have been fabricating my new tensioner the last few days, it is just about done. I used the wheel from a 3000gt to make replacement easy. Here are a few pics.
some welding was involved so in order to keep warping to a minimum I heated the piece in the oven and let it cool down inside as well.
I need to clean the splatter from welding and then paint it. I'm also going to add a bolt head so I can stick a socket on to apply tension. The right bolt will not have a nut on the bottom but will instead be threaded into the head. I made two spacers, one for each side of the wheel. The head side spacer is welded to the thinner plate and is threaded for the bolt. Hopefully it all works out! I'll post more when I get it mounted.
She starts again after a year! In the video some of my intake tubing is removed, no coolant etc. But she idles! I'll post another video tomorrow when the sun is back and everything is hooked up!
I'm wondering if anyone knows how to wire out the secondary coil on a 4 cylinder ranger. Obviously using the volvo head I only need one coil pack and I would rather not have a second coil just sitting in my engine bay. Right now the wires are cut that normally go to the secondary coil but the problem is the ECU is throwing a code. I was hoping to trick the computer into thinking the coil is working but I'm not sure what that would entail, some resistors or something?
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