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2.3 turbo project


Where did you get that BOV flange and how did you weld that to cast? TIG?
its actually a external waste gate i got it to saddle onto the manifold and then i made a hole in the manifold and just got someone to weld it for me it was simple
 
turboranger.jpg
 
ok im trying to fix the little bugs now but there is one problem when starting in first gear or just reving in neutral i consstantly keep getting a fuel cut off it even seems to happen when i tryi to stay constant on the speed limit fuel just seems to cut off what could it be... it did it when i had the regular computer with only 2 pounds of boost then i swapped to the thunderbird computer but only does it as i had said above what could the problem be??
 
are you using a VAM with that LB2 computer or still attempting to the stock MAF with it?? or are you using anything at all??

cant really see ALL of your piping in that picture. though I definitely dont see any metering device "inside" the engine bay...
 
im still using stock maf... i put a bigger fuel pump and now the truck wont start we found out that one of the coils actually isnt giving any power at all it was only firing on the exhaust side...
 
im still using stock maf... i put a bigger fuel pump and now the truck wont start we found out that one of the coils actually isnt giving any power at all it was only firing on the exhaust side...

lol. DUH!!! did you even READ the response earlier in your OWN thread?!? you converted to an LB2 ecu...which does NOT support the dual fire mode of the factory ecu. you had to permanently ground the secondary coil (which is what the factory ecu does on start up...) in order to properly run the OLDER distributor type ecu in your distributorless dual coil fire type engine....

of course one of the coils would be permanently disabled.

oh...and I'm assuming you have the factory MAF installed in front of the turbo inlet?? so you are sucking air through it?? you've gotta ask yourself...was it designed for this? or am I running it backwards? AND...even beyond that...you're running a MAF on an ecu designed to work with a VAM...how did you compensate for the transfer function of the MAF which is completely different from the transfer function of the VAM...

not trying to come down on you. just trying to get you thinking in turbo 2.3 mode is all. unless you put a chip on that LB2 ecu (which I cant even remember anyone still doing), you need to pull the MAF off and put a VAM on (repin as well) and that should solve all your shut down problems as you are probably experiencing air metering problems like no other right now causing the ecu to freak out as it has no idea what its trying to interpret from the incorrect type air meter you are using.
 
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lol. DUH!!! did you even READ the response earlier in your OWN thread?!? you converted to an LB2 ecu...which does NOT support the dual fire mode of the factory ecu. you had to permanently ground the secondary coil (which is what the factory ecu does on start up...) in order to properly run the OLDER distributor type ecu in your distributorless dual coil fire type engine....

of course one of the coils would be permanently disabled.

oh...and I'm assuming you have the factory MAF installed in front of the turbo inlet?? so you are sucking air through it?? you've gotta ask yourself...was it designed for this? or am I running it backwards? AND...even beyond that...you're running a MAF on an ecu designed to work with a VAM...how did you compensate for the transfer function of the MAF which is completely different from the transfer function of the VAM...

not trying to come down on you. just trying to get you thinking in turbo 2.3 mode is all. unless you put a chip on that LB2 ecu (which I cant even remember anyone still doing), you need to pull the MAF off and put a VAM on (repin as well) and that should solve all your shut down problems as you are probably experiencing air metering problems like no other right now causing the ecu to freak out as it has no idea what its trying to interpret from the incorrect type air meter you are using.

is there any specific wires that i ground from the coil?
 
See here:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tec...iles/1990_Ranger_to_1988_TC_wiring_Pinout.xls

That is the wiring swap with a 1990 ranger harness (distributorless) to the 1988 thunderbird computer (distributor).

The good news is that the computer doesn't care if the vehicle has a distributor or DIS setup. All the ignition wires are already in the right place in the 60-pin ECM connector. The only thing you have to do is connect the DPI (dual-plug inhibit, meaning the truck's stock computer uses this to turn off the secondary coil during cranking to save battery) to the ignition ground lead.

Anyways, that's how it went on my 1990. Your's may be a little different since it's a different year, but you get the idea.


the part in bold is what I was referring to. no clue personally, never done this as I dont like using older electronics on something newer. when I finally get around to doing my 96 truck, I'm just going to get the computer flashed.

oh and my bad on my tone, I was a bit drunk last night haha.
 
Actually, stackz has it backwards :icon_twisted:

He is correct in his statement that the factory ranger computer uses the DPI lead to temporarily ground the secondary (drivers side) ignition coil during cranking. But grounding (to the computer's ignition ground, not the vehicle ground) the DPI wire causes the secondary coil to fire. So to get the secondary coil to fire, you need to splice the DPI wire into the ignition ground wire at the computer connection. If it's not spliced in, you have a non-working secondary coil and probably a non-working tachometer as well (or one that reads half of what it's supposed to).

Also, using the ranger MAF with a LB2 computer (or any other 2.3 turbo computer) isn't going to work at all. In fact I'm surprised you even got it to start like that. Here is the summary of computer / air flow metering device combinations:

LB2 / ranger MAF: Truck probably won't run.

Ranger computer / VAM: Truck probably won't run.

Ranger computer / Ranger MAF: Truck will run fine but you'll melt your pistons when it goes lean under boost.

LB2 / VAM: The truck will run right and this is the only combination that will get the A/F ratio right under boost.

Unfortunately, putting the VAM in requires adding two wires from the computer to the VAM, repinning about 4 wires on the computer connector, and splicing the VAM connector onto the ends of the 4 wires going to it. Just look at the pinout table in the tech library that I directed you to earlier.

Also, just how big of a fuel pump did you put in? When I put the 255 lph pump in mine I ended up with 70 psi at the rail at idle because the return line wasn't big enough to flow the extra fuel without causing an extra 40 psi differential pressure. I ended up having to run a new 3/8" return line to get the fuel pressure within spec (about 30 psi at idle).

Did you put the 35 lb/hr injectors in with the LB2? If you are using the stock ranger 14 lb/hr injectors with the LB2 you are grossly underfueling. This is probably worse than trying to boost with the stock ranger computer.

Sounds like you have a lot of things to figure out yet.

Oh, and the "fuel cut" of which you speak is either the fact that you're using 14 lb/hr ranger injectors with a computer calibrated for 35 lb/hr injectors(think about it, that's a 60% underfuel condition!), or you didn't reduce the gap on the spark plugs and the boost is blowing out the spark. If I remember right, the ranger spark plugs are gapped at 0.042-0.046". To run a turbo motor, you need a gap of about 0.028" for a TFI dizzy ignition and 0.032" for a wastespark DIS (the ranger ignition that you are currently using). Also the turbo engines call for a different spark plug part number than the ranger engines do because they need a different heat range. Using ranger plugs in a turbo engine is going to make for lots of pinging (which equals holes in your pistons).
 
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Actually, stackz has it backwards :icon_twisted:

He is correct in his statement that the factory ranger computer uses the DPI lead to temporarily ground the secondary (drivers side) ignition coil during cranking. But grounding (to the computer's ignition ground, not the vehicle ground) the DPI wire causes the secondary coil to fire. So to get the secondary coil to fire, you need to splice the DPI wire into the ignition ground wire at the computer connection. If it's not spliced in, you have a non-working secondary coil and probably a non-working tachometer as well (or one that reads half of what it's supposed to).

Also, using the ranger MAF with a LB2 computer (or any other 2.3 turbo computer) isn't going to work at all. In fact I'm surprised you even got it to start like that. Here is the summary of computer / air flow metering device combinations:

LB2 / ranger MAF: Truck probably won't run.

Ranger computer / VAM: Truck probably won't run.

Ranger computer / Ranger MAF: Truck will run fine but you'll melt your pistons when it goes lean under boost.

LB2 / VAM: The truck will run right and this is the only combination that will get the A/F ratio right under boost.

Unfortunately, putting the VAM in requires adding two wires from the computer to the VAM, repinning about 4 wires on the computer connector, and splicing the VAM connector onto the ends of the 4 wires going to it. Just look at the pinout table in the tech library that I directed you to earlier.

Also, just how big of a fuel pump did you put in? When I put the 255 lph pump in mine I ended up with 70 psi at the rail at idle because the return line wasn't big enough to flow the extra fuel without causing an extra 40 psi differential pressure. I ended up having to run a new 3/8" return line to get the fuel pressure within spec (about 30 psi at idle).

Did you put the 35 lb/hr injectors in with the LB2? If you are using the stock ranger 14 lb/hr injectors with the LB2 you are grossly underfueling. This is probably worse than trying to boost with the stock ranger computer.

Sounds like you have a lot of things to figure out yet.

Oh, and the "fuel cut" of which you speak is either the fact that you're using 14 lb/hr ranger injectors with a computer calibrated for 35 lb/hr injectors(think about it, that's a 60% underfuel condition!), or you didn't reduce the gap on the spark plugs and the boost is blowing out the spark. If I remember right, the ranger spark plugs are gapped at 0.042-0.046". To run a turbo motor, you need a gap of about 0.028" for a TFI dizzy ignition and 0.032" for a wastespark DIS (the ranger ignition that you are currently using). Also the turbo engines call for a different spark plug part number than the ranger engines do because they need a different heat range. Using ranger plugs in a turbo engine is going to make for lots of pinging (which equals holes in your pistons).
i have actually put bigger injectors i put 35lb injectors and i the fuel pump i have is able to support up to 500 its by msd with msd injectors... what type of spark plugs would you recommend me getting??
 
and by the way i have repinned the computer already and it is in the truck already will be putting in the vam within the next couple of days and will fix the secondary coil today
 
Sounds like you're on the right track. Just don't try to drive it without the VAM, it definitely wont work right!

As for spark plugs, just go to your favorite auto parts store and tell them you want a set of plugs for a 1988 thunderbird with the 2.3 turbo motor. Insist on motorcraft copper core resistor plugs (the factory equipment plug). Don't get platinum plugs because the platinum holds too much heat and can cause pinging. Also, don't even get Autolite plugs, insist on motorcraft. I used to think motorcraft and autolite were the same plug, and in most vehicles (all RBV's included) they are, but I tried them in my turbo engine and it hated them. I couldn't get past 8 psi without the spark blowing out.
 
Sounds like you're on the right track. Just don't try to drive it without the VAM, it definitely wont work right!

As for spark plugs, just go to your favorite auto parts store and tell them you want a set of plugs for a 1988 thunderbird with the 2.3 turbo motor. Insist on motorcraft copper core resistor plugs (the factory equipment plug). Don't get platinum plugs because the platinum holds too much heat and can cause pinging. Also, don't even get Autolite plugs, insist on motorcraft. I used to think motorcraft and autolite were the same plug, and in most vehicles (all RBV's included) they are, but I tried them in my turbo engine and it hated them. I couldn't get past 8 psi without the spark blowing out.

o alright thanks alot for the help... one more problem im having and its with the stock fuel pump its pretty wierd... when running with the fuel pump relay on or jumping the relay when i rev i get the fuel cut off but when i completly take out the relay and am not jumping the relay it revs up totally perfect no cut off nothing its prefectly fine we tested the fuel pressure with the relay on the pressure is only at 11 psi and when we jump it its around 39psi but when i rev with the jump its still cutting out and when nothing its on it still stays a little high but will completly rev up with no cut off... may be little confusing but cant figure out what it is exactly...:annoyed:
 
autolite 764 is the plug you want, it's what Dave R used to suggest all the time... it's what I'm running and am not having problems up to 15psi...
 
Hmm, that's weird. Like I said, I tried the autolite 764s and they didn't work good at all. Maybe I just needed to gap them tighter, but at 0.032 the motorcraft plugs worked much better than the autolites. If you go on turboford.net most guys there will recommend the motorcraft plugs over the autolites.

As for the fuel issues, I would try replacing the relay first. Also make sure you didn't get any wires crossed when you changed the pinout on the computer.
 

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