2.3L ('83-'97) 2.3 rods ?

[KnightOmite]

Anyone know what the best rods for 2.3 engines are ? Or if you can get decent aftermarket ones for less than $200 each and what is the difference between
E43E-AA and D42E-AA ..I read somewhere early rods were forged iron or something and later were cast steel and stronger , but this engine causes the most confusing time trying to find certain parts differentiating between different engines with the same bore and stroke. I have a 2.3 turbo engine I want to possibly replace the rods but don't want to spend 800 + for the rods I see thjat look like chevy rods bushed for custom pistons that cost a small fortune : ) any help would be appreciated^^

 

[scotts90ranger]

You can do all sorts of silly things, but depending on what your plans are stock is perfectly fine... from what I've heard the stock bottom end is safe up to about 350hp and all of the rods were the same. NA or forced induction... The 5.7 rods I believe go with different pistons to change the geometry and I don't remember what that was about...

 

[KnightOmite]

The 57 rods and oter Esslinger parts are for the people with deep pockets that want bulletproof bottom ends for running constant high rpms and stroking them out for top hp gains.. and boost them 25% or supercharging .....there just seems to be no in between with these engines and not much is known about the technical aspects of these factory parts. They certainly aren't exactly the same ..Because if they were..they'd have the same part no. But I appreciate the info..I didn't know the factory rods were considered able to support 350 hp and have no idea what would be their rev limits but suffice to believe and say most factory parts excluding special forged rods are likely rated to about a 5500 rpm. Just hope there would be someone with the secret information where you could buy 4 forged rods like for half the price of 8 v8 rods ...which is what it seems they would be worth..But they just don't seem to be made by SCAT or Eagle so far as I can tell.: )

 

[scotts90ranger]

If you think rods are hard to find, try to find forged pistons rated for forced induction... when I found out a set was over $400 I gave up and found the 4 best pistons out of the 8 (might have been 7 since I threw a rod when the rod nut fell off at like 5k rpm...) I had on hand... The rev limit on all Limas that I know of is 6k so I would trust them through there, if you want to get fancy maybe get the assembly balanced but I literally threw what I'm running now to 14psi together in like 2 months in my driveway/garage in the winter with new bearings and rings and such and the rotating assembly is fine, I missed some stupid things related to oil leaks but that's another story...

I've learned not to over think things if you are sticking to stockish power range, these engines are stout, I was very green when I did the turbo swap originally and when I rebuilt it a few years later it was in pretty good shape even with all the pinging it put up with. I've ported the head that's on it now and the boost dropped but the power is higher and it just does stuff...

 

[KnightOmite]

If you think rods are hard to find, try to find forged pistons rated for forced induction... when I found out a set was over $400 I gave up and found the 4 best pistons out of the 8 (might have been 7 since I threw a rod when the rod nut fell off at like 5k rpm...) I had on hand... The rev limit on all Limas that I know of is 6k so I would trust them through there, if you want to get fancy maybe get the assembly balanced but I literally threw what I'm running now to 14psi together in like 2 months in my driveway/garage in the winter with new bearings and rings and such and the rotating assembly is fine, I missed some stupid things related to oil leaks but that's another story...

I've learned not to over think things if you are sticking to stockish power range, these engines are stout, I was very green when I did the turbo swap originally and when I rebuilt it a few years later it was in pretty good shape even with all the pinging it put up with. I've ported the head that's on it now and the boost dropped but the power is higher and it just does stuff...

^^ I'm so famous for over thinking everything . LOL:......I 'm debating whether I want to buy a swap harness and use the factory sfi or use a omc cobra intake and go with a Holley sniper system but I am for certain going to ditch the tfi distributor I'm favoring the tune ability and simplicity of the Holley...but it don't come cheap. in the end the money will probably win...oe the lack of it Thanks for the reply ..and and gl with your project.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I didn't mention it above but I went with ARP rod bolts when I rebuilt it, I'm sure I'm the cause of the original rod nuts coming loose but wanted to be sure...

I'm running a stock LC computer for a turbo engine if memory serves (haven't pulled it in many years...), I know it's an '85-86 setup with a small VAM with the original '90 Ranger engine harness including DIS ignition, I just made a template for the front of the block to drill/tap the block and add the newer style front seal housing and made a plate sandwiched between the upper and lower intakes to mount the DIS module... I've done zero tuning and it runs decent, sure it could be better but it nearly always starts on the first try and just does stuff... I'm sure I could get better fuel mileage and driveability and so forth with an aftermarket system or even the LC3 with big VAM that I have nearly everything for (it's on the list...) but this mess just works...