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2.3 lima timing belt slipped off


starter fluid didnt do anything.......the plugs are wet

Well, that usually indicates that you are not getting spark...so time to test the spark at the coil and the distributor...or the plug itself...

To test you can just pull the plug wire off any one of them and put in a spare plug if you have one...crank the engine and watch for spark...if not then go back to the coil and test that...but you will need a voltmeter...one that reads thousands of volts since you should be cranking through about 30,000 volts or so...can't remember, but don't set the VM too low or you could fry them.

Can't remember...if this is 4 or 8 plug...but check the passenger side regardless since the drive side does not spark on ignition...
 
Well, that usually indicates that you are not getting spark...so time to test the spark at the coil and the distributor...or the plug itself...

To test you can just pull the plug wire off any one of them and put in a spare plug if you have one...crank the engine and watch for spark...if not then go back to the coil and test that...but you will need a voltmeter...one that reads thousands of volts since you should be cranking through about 30,000 volts or so...can't remember, but don't set the VM too low or you could fry them.

Can't remember...if this is 4 or 8 plug...but check the passenger side regardless since the drive side does not spark on ignition...

ill start with the plugs.. then i imagine i would check the source plug to the dizzy.. 30k volts? will keep you posted..
 
ill start with the plugs.. then i imagine i would check the source plug to the dizzy.. 30k volts? will keep you posted..

OK, well, if you don't get spark at the plug...the test for the coil is actually in ohms...so a bit different test...


Here is how to test the TFI on your model year...

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml

I found this Youtube on testing the coil and starter circuit but the guy has tools that you probably don't...but interesting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6UPe5f1s2ak
 
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Is this an interference engine? If it is you may try a compression test while you are looking at those plugs. Just a thought, good luck though I hope you get this sorted soon :)

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk
 
These engines aren't interference engines, so that's not an issue.

Just something to throw out there, but when I first started my Geo Tracker engine after I rebuilt it I wasn't paying enough attention when I took the engine apart or apparently was looking at things wrong when I put it together but I got the distributor off a tooth when I stabbed it in, have you tried blindly turning the distributor a little each direction? Once you get it running you can set the timing then figure out if you need to pull the distributor to get it oriented better...
 
These engines aren't interference engines, so that's not an issue.

Just something to throw out there, but when I first started my Geo Tracker engine after I rebuilt it I wasn't paying enough attention when I took the engine apart or apparently was looking at things wrong when I put it together but I got the distributor off a tooth when I stabbed it in, have you tried blindly turning the distributor a little each direction? Once you get it running you can set the timing then figure out if you need to pull the distributor to get it oriented better...


The firing order was wrong oops my bad..... Got it running for a few miles and then it died on my . got it towed to ford and they said it was the fuel pump in the tank... so i have it sitting at my house and about to drop the tank... just wanted to let everyone know whats going on in my life so that no body out there is losing sleep.
 
Dropping the tank is somewhat difficult, it's a fair amount easier to just pull the 6 bed bolts (T55 torx bit), the three small screws with 7mm heads for the gas filler, and the one connector for the tail lights and pull the bed backwards about a foot.
 
replaced the fuel tank pump, screw ford, that wasnt the culprit those liars. I had the spark wires in the wrong order. fast forward another six months and now im on my second set of aux.dizzy gears, the problems never ends with this POS

Dropping the tank is somewhat difficult, it's a fair amount easier to just pull the 6 bed bolts (T55 torx bit), the three small screws with 7mm heads for the gas filler, and the one connector for the tail lights and pull the bed backwards about a foot.
 
You are not the first one to experience this difficulty but I can assure you it is not that common. I've had a 2.0 and 2.3 block and drove them for 14 years with only one issue with the distributor (on the 2.0 only) and that required a new distributor.

There have been a few people recently that experienced this very thing and I'm sure you can find their posts and fixes with a search...or try google and you will find quite a bit of information.

It is unfortunate that you are having a rash of problems but it is not that hard to fix...usually.
 
If the dist gears aren't in full mesh, you can get problems. If ONE tooth gets whacked for any reason, it can make all the rest become useless.
I'd inspect the aux shaft gears very closely, rolling the crankshaft over manually until all teeth have been inspected.
It is a bear to slid off the old and slide on a new dist gear. In addition, the gear is expensive (compared to other stuff), while a complete dist isn't that much more.
If you think there is ANY damage to the aux shaft gear, get a replacement, and a replacement dist and put it back together. I think that will cure the problem.
NOTE: the aux shaft can get mis-aligned if the retainer or bushings/spacers allow too much end play, possibly causing damage. Also, if the dist is not seated completely the teeth can get misaligned. If the hex on the oil pump shaft is too tall, shaft not seated in the pump for any reason, the gears will be mis-aligned. If there's stuff in the hex hole in the bottom of the distributor shaft, it won't seat, and you'll get mis-alignment.
tom
 
If the dist gears aren't in full mesh, you can get problems. If ONE tooth gets whacked for any reason, it can make all the rest become useless.
I'd inspect the aux shaft gears very closely, rolling the crankshaft over manually until all teeth have been inspected.
It is a bear to slid off the old and slide on a new dist gear. In addition, the gear is expensive (compared to other stuff), while a complete dist isn't that much more.
If you think there is ANY damage to the aux shaft gear, get a replacement, and a replacement dist and put it back together. I think that will cure the problem.
NOTE: the aux shaft can get mis-aligned if the retainer or bushings/spacers allow too much end play, possibly causing damage. Also, if the dist is not seated completely the teeth can get misaligned. If the hex on the oil pump shaft is too tall, shaft not seated in the pump for any reason, the gears will be mis-aligned. If there's stuff in the hex hole in the bottom of the distributor shaft, it won't seat, and you'll get mis-alignment.
tom

when istalled the last set i verified each tooth. dizzy is new and under warranty, so i can get a new one. can you explain to me more about the oil pump anf the retainer/ bushings/ spacers. what are you eferrring to amd how would i check these?? thanks
 

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