2.3 killing fuel pumps

[Good2beKing1]

ok heres the story, I bought an 92 ranger 2x4 2.3. gentleman that I had bought it from told me that he didn't drive the truck much and that the last time he cranked it the fuel pump had gone bad so he took the bed off and replaced it after installing a new fuel pump relay as well as reseting the inertia switch. test drove the truck all was fine. NOW three days later the truck began to loose fuel pressure towards the end of my gear (2nd would struggle to 25 then start sputtering and popping. so I replace MAF, TPS, COILS,plugs, wires, fuel filter, and fuel pump. truck runs fine for three days then kills another pump, so yet again I replace the pump to only make it 44 miles. WTF I've had a handful of these trucks and ran them to 300000+ with no problems. any clue.

(side note volt meter in cab is reading To the L in NORMAL as well as the truck had a viper alarm system that is now been removed yet problem consists)

 

[RonD]

Have you tested the pump you just removed, to find out what is wrong with it?
Hook it up to 12v and see if it is working.
Test with OHM meter to see if motor winding is "open", broken connection in the motor.

Is there 12v at the pump now?

Is there any non-stock wiring under the hood, alternator rewiring can produce higher voltage that won't show on the dash gauge.
I would get a volt meter and test voltages when engine is running again, especially at the alternator, 14.7v is about the upper limit of most 12v parts.
An unregulated alternator can put out 50+v

Could the wiring harness be the problem, works after being moved around with new pump install then disconnects(ground or 12v) after running for awhile.

Is the PCM cycling the pump for 1 or 2 seconds when key is on, or does pump continue to run?

 

[Mark_88]

Are these "new" pumps or are you getting them out of junkyards? The reason I ask is because my 89 Tempo went through about 6 fuel pumps in 14 years...all new...but all with the same defect...as far as I could tell...they would run but they could not pump fuel.

Now, apparently, Ford knew there was a defect in these pumps that was exacerbated by warm weather...and they replaced my wonky fuel pump with the exact same part every time...it would run quite a bit longer than your pumps have so I suspect maybe RonD is onto something with the voltage...but just to clarify...

And another thing that seemed relevant...every time I used a specific type of gas (Petro Canada) my pump would fail shortly after filling up the tank with that gas...maybe it was just a coincidence, but 6 times??? They used some special cleaners in their regular gas that, I suspect, would wear out the diaphram seals that the other gas (usually Esso) did not do...

 

[Good2beKing1]

@RonD:
the pump is working not only can I hear it but the truck starts but when in gear it loses a lot of pressure 40 down to 20 p.s.i. because of the conector I cant stick my needles down in the boots to get a reading when its running but with K.O.E.O. from ground to right (red w/ black tracer) 7.14v (yellow w/ white tracer) 8.38v (solid orange) no current. the PCM does allow it to cycle for 1-2 seconds. as well as the only aftermarket wiring I see went to the viper system but I have removed all traces of this.

@Mark88
they're all new pumps from airtex and I've spoken with them directly and they have no records of this model year having this problem

 

[RonD]

The specs on fuel pressure for that year/engine is 40psi Key on engine off, then 3 to 10psi drop engine running.

Check fuel regulator vacuum line for the smell of gas, if it has gas in it replace regulator.

Not sure about those voltages, I can see one being below 12v, the fuel gauge, resistance circuit.
But the other??

OK, y/w wire is the fuel gauge so varying voltage
pk/bk wire should be from the fuel pump relay(via the enertia switch) and have 12v

http://www.therangerstation.com/tec...les/Diagram_ElectronicEngControls2_3_1of3.JPG

Have you tested voltage at the fuel pump relay?

Maybe low voltage is causing the motor issue

 

[super91(2.3)]

this may sound stupid, but try a new fuel filter. if it cant get enough fuel to the engine it will work harder and burn them out right and left.. its $15 well spent wether its the problem or not

 

[Mazda]

Also are you replacing just the pump or the whole unit with sender. If your only replacing the pump are you replacing the fuel sock also. A dirty fuel sock will kill a new pump really fast.

 

[zekew64]

Another thing to check is your vacuum lines. If you have even a hairline crack, you'll lose pressure.

On the intake manifold, you should find a vacuum line that is attached on one end to the regulator, and the other to a manifold vacuum tree. Run some soap and water and see if the line increases pressure, or if you can see bubbles. If you do, there's your leak (if you have one).

Other than that, +1 to everything else that has been said.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Someone asked yesterday on another forum about Artex and without exception, everyone, including a bunch of professional techs, said they were junk that were a waste of time installing, always failed, caused repeat work, etc.

I know OEM is expensive, but after doing all of the trouble shooting to determine voltages are OK, GROUNDS are OK, etc, you might consider a Genuine Ford Motorcraft fuel pump ($472).

Charles