1999 Ranger 3.0L CEL and lots of other issues..ANY INFO?

[cws0505]

adsm08...Thanks for that info! I might just try and wait it out to see then. Its running fine, just alittle rattle when I first start it up then it goes smooth but I still have that pending fault.

AngryLepercon....If you have the time and a wrench, I highly recommended following shanes advise and pulling the alternator and checking those brushes. It is straight forward and only took me about 15-20min to get the alternator off....after I found all my tools Mine has never had an issue with the battery and charging until this past weekend so it went pretty quick on me. Not sure if it has anything to do with the idle and stalling but I've read it can mess with the computer if the voltage drops below a certain level. I could be completely wrong on that though....

 

[AngryLepercon]

I will do that. The one that is on it now is about 2 years old from napa (big discount) lol and I screwed up putting it ob being in a hurry plus being in the dark and sparked it against the body (didn't disconnect the battery) I know I'm tarded. Put it on and ran fine. Maybe with it being sparked caused it to go prematurely

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

 

[cws0505]

Well I changed out the plug and nada....still misfire.

What next? Lol
Back to the injectors?
Maybe after I did #4 the number #6 injector went? I have no more clues!

 

[shane96ranger]

OK, when you say "misfire", can you feel the misfire still? Or are you just going off what your reader is telling you?

 

[cws0505]

I can feel it and also on the OBD reader its giving me a "P0306 Misfire Cyl. 6" PENDING FAULT but its not acctually giving me a CEL yet but this is how the Cyl.#4 misfire started out. Not bad at first but got gradually worse.

 

[shane96ranger]

When my F150 gave me a (cylinder 3) pending misfire, I found that the plug wire was not seated into the coil properly. I'm not really familiar with the 3.0 fuel rail. I would assume that to replace any one of the injectors on the drivers side, that all 3 have to be taken off the fuel rail, correct? Any chance some debris got in there when you reassembled it? Did you put a light coat of a light grease (Vaseline is what I use) on the O-rings when you reassembled it?

Just an FYI.... You can buy a kit with that comes with the two O-rings and a pintle cap through O'Reilly. They are about 2 bucks per injector IIRC.

 

[cws0505]

Just started it again here at work cause I was bored lol Ran it for 30sec. and the CEL did finally come on, still with the rough idle. And it finally did give me the P0306 Code. Yes, the rail is a pita to get to cause you have to take off the whole intake manifold(I think) to get to the rail. Its possible that something got in there but I'm not sure. I dont think he used any lube on the orings...
This time I started it I can smell some gas but I'm not sure if its my truck or not cause I'm in a parking lot.
Do you think I should pull the rail again and switch the injector with a different cyl. and see what happens? Not really wanting to but I will if I have to.

 

[shane96ranger]

Just started it again here at work cause I was bored lol Ran it for 30sec. and the CEL did finally come on, still with the rough idle. And it finally did give me the P0306 Code. Yes, the rail is a pita to get to cause you have to take off the whole intake manifold(I think) to get to the rail. Its possible that something got in there but I'm not sure. I dont think he used any lube on the orings...
This time I started it I can smell some gas but I'm not sure if its my truck or not cause I'm in a parking lot.
Do you think I should pull the rail again and switch the injector with a different cyl. and see what happens? Not really wanting to but I will if I have to.

If I were you, and I knew that the plug and wire were good - this is your last thing to check. It would also be fairly easy to forget to plug the injector in. Or even possible that the harness doesn't have a good enough connection. Mess with that first.

 

[cws0505]

I'm not sure if this info will help but this is the Freeze frame data I got from it the other day when the light came on before I did the alternator. None of this info tells me anything except the Fuel Trim Bank1 short is at 0% but I did notice in subsequent freeze frame results it goes up and down.

This is the first time-- about 8:43am
Fuel Status = 0 byte
Engine Load = 41.176 %
Engine Coolant Temperature = 105.8 °F
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term = -1.562 %
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term = 1.562 %
Fuel Trim Bank 2 Short Term = 3.906 %
Fuel Trim Bank 2 Long Term = -2.344 %
Engine RPM = 1,055 rpm
Speed (OBD) = 0 mph

Second time- about 8:54am
Freeze frame information:
------------------
Fuel Status = 0 byte
Engine Load = 46.667 %
Engine Coolant Temperature = 154.4 °F
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term = 0 %
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term = -0.781 %
Fuel Trim Bank 2 Short Term = 0.781 %
Fuel Trim Bank 2 Long Term = -3.906 %
Engine RPM = 912 rpm
Speed (OBD) = 0 mph

End of report.

I'll try and check the rail this weekend if the truck makes it til then lol

 

[cws0505]

And here is a Mode $06??? test if anybody can understand it. The FAIL marks I see I think are related to O2 sensors but....
Can the O2 sensor be causing this misfire?

Mode $06 report generated by Torque for Android
================================================

Vehicle VIN: Not present
Vehicle Manufacturer: Unknown
Vehicle Calibration ID: Not present

Unit and scaling information are not supplied with the data from the ECU for this type of vehicle. Consulting the manufacturers service book for this information is recommended.

Test report:
------------------
TID:$01 CID:$11
- Rich to Lean sensor threshold voltage(constant)
Min: 512
Test result value: 692
PASS
----
TID:$01 CID:$21
- Rich to Lean sensor threshold voltage(constant)
Min: 512
Test result value: 719
PASS
----
TID:$03 CID:$01
- Low sensor Voltage for switch time calculation
Min: 0
Test result value: 461
PASS
----
TID:$03 CID:$02
- Low sensor Voltage for switch time calculation
Min: 0
Test result value: 512
PASS
----
TID:$10 CID:$11
-
Max: 38
Test result value: 35
PASS
----
TID:$10 CID:$21
-
Max: 64
Test result value: 65,535
FAIL
----
TID:$01 CID:$11
- Rich to Lean sensor threshold voltage(constant)
Min: 512
Test result value: 692
PASS
----
TID:$01 CID:$21
- Rich to Lean sensor threshold voltage(constant)
Min: 512
Test result value: 719
PASS
----
TID:$03 CID:$01
- Low sensor Voltage for switch time calculation
Min: 0
Test result value: 461
PASS
----
TID:$03 CID:$02
- Low sensor Voltage for switch time calculation
Min: 0
Test result value: 512
PASS
----
TID:$10 CID:$11
-
Max: 38
Test result value: 35
PASS
----
TID:$10 CID:$21
-
Max: 64
Test result value: 65,535
FAIL
----
TID:$41 CID:$11
-
Min: 64,640
Test result value: 369
FAIL
----
TID:$41 CID:$12
-
Max: 896
Test result value: 369
PASS
----
TID:$45 CID:$20
-
Max: 21,523
Test result value: 13,251
PASS
----
TID:$4a CID:$30
-
Min: 768
Test result value: 1,109
PASS
----
TID:$4b CID:$30
-
Max: 26,214
Test result value: 10,806
PASS
----

End of report.

 

[cws0505]

Well I haven't had a chance to check the injector again yet, but I have been looking into the Mode 06 info alittle. From what I'm seeing on the
TID:$41 CID:$11 FAIL is pointing to Delta Pressure for upstream hose test and threshold according to a page I found. Could a bad EGR valve or a DPFE sensor contribute to or cause the misfire also without throwing a EGR code? Could I have a vaccum test done to see if those are bad?
Head gasket leaking into #6 and causing moisture in #6 and misfire which could put moisture into the DPFE?
The two Mode 06 things that concern me are the
TID:$10 CID:$21-Which points to an O2 sensor
TID:$41 CID:$11- Which is what I posted above

I cleared the code last night at 7pm and started it, kinda rough, but drives fine.
Kinda rough again this morning
If I stop at a light its smooth for a minute but gets progressivly worse until the light changes. But I didnt get a pending fault or CEL this morning after driving 20miles.

 

[cws0505]

Well.....
Brought it to a friends shop to work on it.
On his scanner everything seems ok except the P0306- Misfire on #6
So we checked a bunch of stuff also checked the pressure in exhaust for clogged cats and all was ok.
Decided to check the compression ourselves, even though the other shop said they checked it.
Cylinder 6 is only getting 40-45psi.....
So bolts and plugs start flying and we have the heads off.
The exhaust valve on #6 has some rust pitting on the valve and the seal and looks as if the the seat is deeper than the others.
Any ideas on what would cause the rusting?
The gaskets look good and didnt see any blowouts leaking through but idk?

Also I guess its time to have these either redone or get some reman. for it.....

 

[shane96ranger]

How's this project going?

 

[cws0505]

Hehe...I was just checking back in and saw your post. Well, had the heads redone at a local shop. The heads checked out good, but all of the exhaust seats were toast. 5 guides were bad and couple other things(not sure where my receipt went). There wasn't any warping or cracks so that is good. The guy that owns the shop said this head is common for all this stuff and his son has the same motor and same thing happened. Said he has done tons of these heads.
So, I got all the parts in the other day and started to re-assemble everything yesterday. I also got a new water pump for good measure...glad I did, because mine had the fins rusted almost off.
Fast forward to the head installation.
Clean it all up, install gasket, put head on start torquing sequence and on the final torque...snap.
2nd bolt breaks off *recessed* about an inch into the block....
Had to remove head, try to center a drill bit, and then used an easyout to remove the broken threads.
Went and got a new gasket set and a new set of head bolts(figured I wouldn't risk trying the rest of them) and the gasket was already crushed.
Got the heads back on finally and we quit about 6pm last night. We only have the upper intake, alternator and some little stuff stuff to hook up, so we got a good way on it.
We wont be able to finish(hopefully) until next Sunday.

Still PO'ed and confused about why that bolt snapped. We did the right sequence pattern and the wrench is correct. The first time we did the final to 73ft/lbs with was REALLY tight and thats when it broke on the second one. That was the max torque settings from the parts store and a repair manual 63-73ft/lbs. The second time we did a different suggestion which was 37ft/lb, loosen a turn, 22ft/lbs, then 90deg, then 90deg which actually resulted in approx. 65-67ft/lbs for the final torque. I used Fel-Pro head bolts but have also read they have failed on a couple people.

BTW- The machine shop cost me $479 for the work on MY heads. About $100 more than buying refurbs but I know where they have been and how they've been taken care of.

I'll keep everyone posted when I have more good news

 

[cws0505]

I have an issue we have discovered while using a (bone stock) 2000 3.0L Ranger as a long-distance tow vehicle.

Under sustained, heavy use, it's relatively common for the stock valve seats to get pounded down. They are apparently quite soft. Since this engine has no provision to adjust the valve lash, this will eventually result in a held-open valve, which will quickly become a burned valve (typically an exhaust valve).

The first symptom is a occasional single cylinder misfire at idle. This becomes a steady misfire at idle and an occasional misfire at cruise (which will trigger a check-engine light on OBD-II vehicles), and finally a permanent misfire, with loss of compression in the affected cylinder.

We've seen it play out twice. Our truck was purchased used, and put into service towing cars on a flatbed trailer. This was mostly highway cruising over rolling hills with the cruise-control set at 60MPH, punctuated by periodic sustained WOT hillclimbs lasting several minutes in the mountain passes. The factory engine lost compression in one cylinder after about 15,000 miles of this use. At that point the engine had over 100,000 miles on it, so the failure was chalked up to simple old age, and it was exchanged for a name-brand remanufactured long-block. We did zero investigation of the cause before giving up the engine for a core.

The remanufactured engine suffered the same fate after about 20,000 miles. At this point we were curious, so rather than filing a warranty claim on the reman engine, we pulled the intake and head ourselves, sure that we would find some sort of vacuum leak from a bad gasket or cracked manifold, leaning out cylinder #1. We were wrong. We took the head into a machinist to have it rebuilt, and he told us that the Vulcan engine's stock valve seats are prone to sinkage under heavy use, and recommended the we have harder ones installed. We took his advice.

I think this post pretty muchs sums up the main problem I was having....figured I'd throw it in here in case someone else is wondering.