Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and RangerCurt
Member
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2009
- Messages
- 6
- Vehicle Year
- 1999
- Transmission
- Automatic
Hi all
This is my first post on the board after lurking for a year. My first major repair to my 99 Ranger was the heater core.
First many thanks to thegoat4 and rangerrunner for the excellent write ups in the tech library. I found the job to be pretty much what was outlined in the library. End to end the job took about 8-9 hours. Its a big job but I saved myself probably 800 bucks; well worth my time. Here are some of the things I learned:
Planning
Read the article in the tech library MULTIPLE times as well as the procedures in your service manual (Chilton, etc). This helped minimize surprises and got me ready for the “tough” items (like the plug monster).
Tools
No special tools are needed. I do recommend having a set of curved picks. This is very helpful for releasing wire plugs. Otherwise I did 90% of this job with 1/4” drive tools and nut drivers.
Dis-assembly
I used zip lock sandwich bags and a Sharpie to label all the hardware and keep things straight. This kept the job tidy and made reassembly much easier
The “Plugmonster” is easily dealt with by using your curved pick set. Hold some backward tension on the plug, push the retaining clips one at a time and it pops right off. I actually had more trouble removing the steering column. Disconnect all the wiring first, then the shift indicator cable, unbolt the coupler, drop the bolts and the shifter cable (my truck is an automatic). Let the column drop down to clear the studs nearest the instrument panel and then it should slide straight out.
Once the dash is out there are five nuts in the engine compartment holding the heater core box to the firewall. Four are around the blower motor and AC box. The fifth one is centered in the engine compartment;its hard to see, feel your way around the insulation about 8 inches above the transmission and you will find it.
Reassembly
The job goes together faster than it came apart. In my opinion, its because late model cars are designed for efficient assembly on the line.
I found that the dash “hangs” from the four bolts near the windshield. Get these started first. I was doing the solo and found it to be tricky. Use a large shank screwdriver or some other tool as a guide pin. Put it through one of the bolt holes in the dash, and hoist the dash in place using the screwdriver to align the bolt holes. Otherwise it is very difficult to hold up the dash and starting the bolt straight in the threaded holes.
Again, follow the write up, double check that all the wiring is reattached and everything is hooked up and neat. Clean up and enjoy a couple of well deserved cold beers and think about the cash you saved!
This is my first post on the board after lurking for a year. My first major repair to my 99 Ranger was the heater core.
First many thanks to thegoat4 and rangerrunner for the excellent write ups in the tech library. I found the job to be pretty much what was outlined in the library. End to end the job took about 8-9 hours. Its a big job but I saved myself probably 800 bucks; well worth my time. Here are some of the things I learned:
Planning
Read the article in the tech library MULTIPLE times as well as the procedures in your service manual (Chilton, etc). This helped minimize surprises and got me ready for the “tough” items (like the plug monster).
Tools
No special tools are needed. I do recommend having a set of curved picks. This is very helpful for releasing wire plugs. Otherwise I did 90% of this job with 1/4” drive tools and nut drivers.
Dis-assembly
I used zip lock sandwich bags and a Sharpie to label all the hardware and keep things straight. This kept the job tidy and made reassembly much easier
The “Plugmonster” is easily dealt with by using your curved pick set. Hold some backward tension on the plug, push the retaining clips one at a time and it pops right off. I actually had more trouble removing the steering column. Disconnect all the wiring first, then the shift indicator cable, unbolt the coupler, drop the bolts and the shifter cable (my truck is an automatic). Let the column drop down to clear the studs nearest the instrument panel and then it should slide straight out.
Once the dash is out there are five nuts in the engine compartment holding the heater core box to the firewall. Four are around the blower motor and AC box. The fifth one is centered in the engine compartment;its hard to see, feel your way around the insulation about 8 inches above the transmission and you will find it.
Reassembly
The job goes together faster than it came apart. In my opinion, its because late model cars are designed for efficient assembly on the line.
I found that the dash “hangs” from the four bolts near the windshield. Get these started first. I was doing the solo and found it to be tricky. Use a large shank screwdriver or some other tool as a guide pin. Put it through one of the bolt holes in the dash, and hoist the dash in place using the screwdriver to align the bolt holes. Otherwise it is very difficult to hold up the dash and starting the bolt straight in the threaded holes.
Again, follow the write up, double check that all the wiring is reattached and everything is hooked up and neat. Clean up and enjoy a couple of well deserved cold beers and think about the cash you saved!
