1998 ranger locking hub question

[dme100]

I have a 1998 Ranger, 138k miles, great truck, bought new, still looks great and runs great. I just bought a 2009, almost identical except for color, I am going to use the "old" Ranger to plow 2 small New Hampshire driveways.
My problem is, the 4wd stopped working, the lights come on, I've tried smacking the actuator motor a few times but nothing.
With 140k miles, I am thinking of replacing the hubs with manual locking hubs. Does the truck still need a functioning actuator motor with the manual hubs to engage the transfer case?
I can get one (motor)online for about $100. My thought is, if it is in fact the motor, I could replace just that, but with the original hubs having such high mileage and being, as I have read, not too dependable with high mileage, I want to replace whatever I need to make the system dependable.
Thanks in advance for everyone's advice! Feel free to E-mail me @dme100@aol.com

 

[srteach]

Physically impacting an electronic part? Damn you're rough on trucks.

Yes, the transfer case is required for 4 wheel drive, and the engagement motor is a necessary part of the electric t-case. You can replace the whole t-case with a manual if you want, but the linkage is a pain to get correct.

The hubs are probably OK. Take them off and grease them with light grease. Make sure the gears inside aren't stripped. Confirm that the vacuum is working properly (I believe the '98 has PVH system), and the vac hoses are intact.

My advice: Check the PVH system first (it is usually the cheapest to fix), then check and grease the hubs. Save the motor for last. And look in the tech library for repair instructions that may save you money on a t-case motor replacement.

 

[dme100]

Thank you

for your reply. As for "smacking" the actuator motor, I didn't really use a lot of force, I used a rubber mallet. I spoke to the service manager at the local Ford dealer and his reply was that "90% of the time the issue is with the motor, so smack it with a rubber mallet a few times"
I am going to pull the motor, I found an article here on how to dissemble and clean it and try that.
To check the vacuum to the hubs, I am guessing the engine needs to be running, but what controls the vacuum going to the hubs when you switch the switch to 4wh or 4wl?
Is there a valve that is activated when you engage the actuator motor or is the vacuum always on?

 

[4x4junkie]

If the 4WD lights are coming on normally, the motor is working fine.

I would be looking at the PVH hubs on that truck.
The hubs are "pulsed" with vacuum to engage and disengage them (hence their name "Pulse Vacuum Hublock")

 

[dme100]

locking hubs

I have found 2 articles here on "modifing" the Pulse hubs. One that locks the all the time, and another that lets you "push" the hub with your finger to lock and un-lock it. Both seem like very quick, cheap and easy fixes. Is there a down side of having the hubs locked all the time vs just when you want 4wd?
This truck has 140k miles, and mostly my 17 yr old son will be driving it to work on the weekends, about 15 miles round trip, and I want the system working, but I am not too sure he can wrap his mind around using the "push" system.